|
replacing fuel tanks
Wayne.B wrote:
Just got a phone call from the boatyard doing the pressure testing on the GB fuel tanks. Not good it turns out. So what's your favorite way of replacing fuel tanks on a GB49? Depends. Where are they, how difficult to access, what do you want to replace them with, do you mind cutting big panels out of the hull? I am thinking ahead to replacing our fuel tanks, and so far I have considered two options: cutting them up in place, and replacing them with fiberglass tanks molded in place (I could premold some of the sections); or cutting the tops off the tanks and putting bladder tanks inside the old tanks. The classic way to remove & replace fuel tanks is to cut big panels out of the hull, yank the tanks, put in new ones, and refiberglass the panels into place. Just as strong and (given a reasonable level of skill with fiberglass) nobody could ever tell it was cut. Yet somehow I don't want to do this to our boat.... Fair Skies Doug King |
What anchor should I buy?
For Jax, who is a stickler on semantics as well as you the English lit
major, an anchor rode is a line until attached. For my 14' aluminum boat, I used poly rope and 5' of 1/4" chain to a 5# danforth knockoff ancuor for years. Went to an 8# when after fishing the Sacramento river, I plowed the bottom. Bill "Harry Krause" wrote in message news:c3dhc2g=.ec25b726c031e6374dec58c4fa8be546@108 4884347.nulluser.com... Calif Bill wrote: "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... Put 8-10' of 1/4" to 5/16" galvanized chain between the anchor and 3/8" anchor line / rope. in all my years in and around boats on Midwest lakes, I never saw, nor ever heard of, using chain on an anchor. Not once. You tie the rope to the mushroom and drop it overboard. You ain't seen much. First you do not use rope on an anchor. Of course you do and can. Under some conditions, all you want is a little "river" anchor and 20' of light line. Depends on the conditions. Or are you one of those who are hung up on "line, rope or rode?" And if there is wind, on a lake, you want the chain to help get the anchor to set. Try Okeechobee. I bet the wind can blow bit time there. I've fished the Big O nearly a dozen times. Never anchored once while fishing. Did anchor several times on the edges of the canals there, and used an 8# "river" anchor with some light line. No chain. No need for chain. When fishing the ICW shallows in Florida, I didn't use chain, either. In fact, I simply tied a line around a smooth, round weight. The water was shallow and I didn't want to rip up any oyster beds. Under certain circumstances, the "hard and fast" rules simply do not apply. |
What anchor should I buy?
It is not a rope on the boat, it is a line, and when it is attached to the
anchor, it becomes a rode. Bill No, not true Bill. It's not a line if its a rope. A rope can become a line when it is put to use. From Lenfesty: (a widely acknowledged arbiter of nautical verbiage) line (n) The word applied to rope in many of its functional applications aboard ship... (Lefesty continues with an observation that rope is not always called "line".) ......there are many exceptions, such as boltrope, footrope, and bell rope, or halyard, sheet, and cable. Regarding the overuse of the term "line", Lenfesty declares: Some of the most specious and arbitrary writing has arisen over the use of the word "rope" on seagoing vessels. Some writers flatly declare that when cordage comes aboard a vessel if is line unless it is specifically named, as with boltrope; but this bit of mystique was unheard of a hundred years or so ago. *** Nobody would ever say, "When you attach an achor to a halyard..........." so why is it corect, indeed claimed to be the only correct option, to say "when you attach an anchor to a line." When you attach an achor to a bow line, stern line, breast line, or spring line.....you look pretty silly in my book. :-) The reason we don't have an anchor "line" is that we call that use of rope a "rode". I think this "line" fixation might have originated with you guys who use your boats for rod and reel fishing. You call everything you can spool onto a reel a fishing "line". It would be pretty ridiculous to refer to fishing rope, twine, or cordage. :-) |
replacing fuel tanks
So what's your favorite way of replacing fuel tanks on a GB49?
Up through the engine hatch. You will need to pull at least one engine. You may get away with temporarily moving the other engine onto the opposite mounts, (and then back again, obviously) when the new tanks are installed. Depends on space. How do you plan to use the boat? Many trawlers have a lot more fuel capacity than they need. A boater running 75 hours a year has too much fuel on board with 450-500 gallons, yet you run into these situations all the time. You could possibly make your life easier if you could use slightly smaller tanks. Going to smaller tanks could impact the eventual resale value, however, and its defintiely not something you'd want to do if cruising the length of the ICW is part of your plan for the boat. The bladder option may be less desirable on large tanks. Bladders don't have the internal baffling that helps control slosh in partially filled tanks. Way more than OK on a 10 gallon sailboat aux application, but unless there's some way to baffle bladders that I don't know anything about I'd be careful on a 150-250 gallon tank. You found the tanks at the *right* time. You have a lot of leverage to get the seller to make the repair. After all, if the seller lets you "walk" over the fuel tank issue, he'll simply be dealing with it again in several months when (if) he finds another buyer, who will also want the boat surveyed. You are well aware, of course, that unless the availability of cash is a key issue that makes it more convenient to roll repairs into a boat loan, you're better off to get an estimate from a legitimate yard, (add 20% for aggravation and the inevitable "discoveries" as the job progresses), and get a financial concession from the seller. The seller will be more likely to grant a price concession than to screw around doing repairs on a boat he's mentally done with. If the seller does attempt to do the repairs it will likely be a quick and very dirty job- not at all what you want. |
What anchor should I buy?
For Jaxassby, it is line, for the rest of us, we can use rope. As in "tie
the end of the anchor rope to the dead body, before tossing it overboard." Bill "Gould 0738" wrote in message ... It is not a rope on the boat, it is a line, and when it is attached to the anchor, it becomes a rode. Bill No, not true Bill. It's not a line if its a rope. A rope can become a line when it is put to use. From Lenfesty: (a widely acknowledged arbiter of nautical verbiage) line (n) The word applied to rope in many of its functional applications aboard ship... (Lefesty continues with an observation that rope is not always called "line".) .....there are many exceptions, such as boltrope, footrope, and bell rope, or halyard, sheet, and cable. Regarding the overuse of the term "line", Lenfesty declares: Some of the most specious and arbitrary writing has arisen over the use of the word "rope" on seagoing vessels. Some writers flatly declare that when cordage comes aboard a vessel if is line unless it is specifically named, as with boltrope; but this bit of mystique was unheard of a hundred years or so ago. *** Nobody would ever say, "When you attach an achor to a halyard..........." so why is it corect, indeed claimed to be the only correct option, to say "when you attach an anchor to a line." When you attach an achor to a bow line, stern line, breast line, or spring line.....you look pretty silly in my book. :-) The reason we don't have an anchor "line" is that we call that use of rope a "rode". I think this "line" fixation might have originated with you guys who use your boats for rod and reel fishing. You call everything you can spool onto a reel a fishing "line". It would be pretty ridiculous to refer to fishing rope, twine, or cordage. :-) |
What anchor should I buy?
It is not a rope on the boat, it is a line, and when it is attached to the
anchor, it becomes a rode. Bill In France, they speak French. In Italy, they speak Italian. In California, they speak cereal (i.e. nuts, fruits and flakes). On Midwest lakes, an anchor is tied to a boat with a rope. |
What anchor should I buy?
At least I get to water.
billy bud, I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean. |
What anchor should I buy?
|
What anchor should I buy?
So...... what is the diameter of a 3 inch rope?
Is this the trick question with the punch line "it doesn't matter what the diameter is, you can't do much with three inches of rope?" (I'm sure millions of frustrated women would agree) |
What anchor should I buy?
Also Sprach JAXAshby :
At least I get to water. billy bud, I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean. It's not an island. It's a peninsula. The Supreme Court said so, officially making Whidbey Island, WA the longest island in the country. Dan -- I was recently on a tour of Latin America, and the only regret I have was that I didn't study Latin harder in school so I could converse with those people. -- Dan Quayle |
What anchor should I buy?
"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... At least I get to water. billy bud, I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean. So, you look at the water as you drive over the bridge. If you boated the ocean, you would have bigger than a 12' boat. |
What anchor should I buy?
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On 19 May 2004 00:30:41 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote: It is not a rope on the boat, it is a line, and when it is attached to the anchor, it becomes a rode. Bill In France, they speak French. In Italy, they speak Italian. In California, they speak cereal (i.e. nuts, fruits and flakes). On Midwest lakes, an anchor is tied to a boat with a rope. In the Midwest one can expect the nautical experience of those accustomed to a prairie schooner. Just how much does that "rope" stretch?? It that the same "rope" that Roy Rogers uses? Get along little dingy..... yip....yip..... yee-haw.... little mushroom anchor.... -- Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC. http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/ Homepage http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC is located. http://www.southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com Real Time Pictures at My Marina http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide ROTFLMAO!!! |
What anchor should I buy?
So...... what is the diameter of a 3 inch rope? -- 1 inch I can't remember where rope changes from diameter to circumference when describing....it may be around 1.5 inch dia. Below 5/8 dia, it was called "small stuff". G Then again, different groups may have different points. Shen |
What anchor should I buy?
The acutal solution:
The rec.boats posters went into Big Box Marine. Calif Bill bought ten feet of anchor line Gould bought ten feet of rope to use for an anchor rode Jax bought ten feet of rope to use for an anchor rope. The young clerk on duty got rather confused by it all, and forgot what the cordage was supposed to sell for. The clerk charged all three rec.boats posters $10 @. Before the posters could relocate their argument to the parking lot, the manager of Big Box Marine asked the clerk about the sale. The clerk said, "I didn't know what to charge, so they each paid $10." "That's too much said the manager of Big Box Marine, " {{OK OKIt's a fable already so give me a break}} "Take $5 out of the till and give it back to them." The clerk didn't know how to divide $5 by three, so he took a $2 "tip" and gave eachof the rec.boaters a $1 refund. Since the cordage originally cost each poster $10 and they received $1 back, the net cost per poster could be said to be $9. Since 9X3 = 27, and the clerk absoconded with $2....what happened to the extra buck? ($27 + 2 = $29) Who will be the first "unstumped" by this one? :-) |
replacing fuel tanks
|
What anchor should I buy?
In France, they speak French. In Italy, they speak Italian. In California,
they speak cereal (i.e. nuts, fruits and flakes). On Midwest lakes, an anchor is tied to a boat with a rope. In the Midwest one can expect the nautical experience of those accustomed to a prairie schooner. It is their boats, their anchors and their lakes. They can call them sweet potatoes if they wish. |
What anchor should I buy?
billy bud, I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean.
It's not an island. It's a peninsula. The Supreme Court said so, officially making Whidbey Island, WA the longest island in the country. Manhattan Island is a peninsula? Well, there is that tiny piece of the Bronx that is legally part of Manhattan, but I don't live on that part. |
What anchor should I buy?
billy bud, I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean.
So, you look at the water as you drive over the bridge. If you boated the ocean, you would have bigger than a 12' boat. Oh? Well, I do also have an Achilles and an inflatable kayak. Boy, was it hell getting all the last two Atlantic Highlands to Cape May last fall aboard the Porta-Bote on my weigh south, but I squeezed by. The waves were sometimes 2 feet high, cresting to 2-1/2 feet, the fish were circling and the sky too coast to take any celestial sights. |
What anchor should I buy?
Also Sprach JAXAshby :
billy bud, I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean. It's not an island. It's a peninsula. The Supreme Court said so, officially making Whidbey Island, WA the longest island in the country. Manhattan Island is a peninsula? Well, there is that tiny piece of the Bronx that is legally part of Manhattan, but I don't live on that part. Ah, I thought you had mentioned you lived on Long Island, which is legally a peninsula. However, no one in their right mind would call Manhattan an island in the Atlantic ocean. It's surrounde by rivers on all sides, for gods sake. Dan -- Take GWAR, add in some goats and stuff, and you have Grimstari! -- Matt Hufstetler |
What anchor should I buy?
On Tue, 18 May 2004 21:52:06 -0400, "Gene Kearns"
wrote: In the Midwest one can expect the nautical experience of those accustomed to a prairie schooner. Dunno about that. Somehow, Michigan (part of the Midwest) has more boats registered than any other state. At least a few of us have a bit of boating experience. The Great Lakes (bordering several Midwestern states, and thus Midwestern Lakes) have just about everything in the way of boating pleasures except hurricanes (we are limited to the occasional tornado and 80 kt straight-line winds) and (noticeable) tides. You can go in a straight line for several days out of the sight of land. Not an ocean crossing, but I bet a lot of salt water cruisers don't make open ocean crossings either. My take on nomenclatu rope is the material; lines (and a few named ropes) are what you make from rope. Rode is like halyard, sheet, painter, stay, or shroud: a special name for a particular application. Thus you take some rope (and maybe a bit of chain) to make your anchor rode. Anchor line is probably acceptable. Reducing precision of usage dilutes the language. Maybe a lost cause, but worth fighting for anyway. On adding chain to the rode: I like to have chain equal to the weight of the anchor. Unless you are anchoring in coral or some other abrasive bottom, six to ten feet is plenty, so you up the size of the chain to get the weight up. With a 25# danforth, use ten feet of 1/2" chain (overkill for strength, but about the right weight). -- --Pete "Peter W. Meek" Rec.boats caps and burgees at: http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/cap-main.html |
What anchor should I buy?
However, no one in their right mind would call Manhattan an
island in the Atlantic ocean. It's surrounde by rivers on all sides, for gods sake. you are just jealous that you don't live in the Center Of The Universe. |
What anchor should I buy?
you are just jealous that you don't live in the Center Of The Universe.
Fremont? |
replacing fuel tanks
s I'd like to set up an
escrow account with the sellers $$$s, do the deal, and pay for repairs with the escrow funds. It may be sticky getting insurance however with defective tanks on the survey. If I push the deal out waiting for repairs, there is a big risk of interest rates taking off in a big Ask your insurance broker about "port risk" coverage. That's a limited policy that would cover the vessel if it sank or caught fire while waiting to get into the yard for repairs. (If you take it out and use it, you're uninsured). In your situation, there might be an exclusion for oil spill liability. The escrow approach works well, and since there's a lender involved that may be the factor that allows the deal to move ahead prior to the tank repair. The seller might be understandably reluctant to spend several thousand dollars repairing the tanks while risking that your financing might dry up. Undoubtedly you could survive a bump of a few percent or more in the interest rate, but the seller doesn't know that you are capable or willing to do so. If the survey makes the lender balky, (and if you're dealing with an organization where you can talk sense to the actual decision makers), another solution is to set up a "hold back" provision in the loan. You and the seller agree that the selling price of the boat will be (example) $300,000 *with* the survey items corrected. The survey items total $30,000. At closing, you sign a note for $300,000 (less your dp, of course). The seller gets $270,000 (gross, before commissions, payoff of any marine mortgage, etc). Your lender sits on the remaining $30,000 until the repairs are completed to the surveyor's satisfaction. The lender is insulated by your down payment as well as the $30,000 holdback, so this can sometimes get the lender on board when there are serious exceptions to survey. |
What anchor should I buy?
"Marshall Banana" wrote in message
... Also Sprach JAXAshby : billy bud, I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean. It's not an island. It's a peninsula. The Supreme Court said so, officially making Whidbey Island, WA the longest island in the country. Manhattan Island is a peninsula? Well, there is that tiny piece of the Bronx that is legally part of Manhattan, but I don't live on that part. Ah, I thought you had mentioned you lived on Long Island, which is legally a peninsula. However, no one in their right mind would call Manhattan an island in the Atlantic ocean. It's surrounde by rivers on all sides, for gods sake. Jax never was very good with navigation. |
What anchor should I buy?
The tax man clerk. They actually paid $30 with a $5 rebate for the
rope/line/twine. Then the Federal government trained clerk took the rebate and charged a 40% handling charge to administer the rebate. About like the rest of the Federal Government on giving back the taxes they extracted from the states, to give back to the states. But if the clerk was really government material, he would have added some extra requirements to the 60% of the rebate he let the payers have. Bill "Gould 0738" wrote in message ... The acutal solution: The rec.boats posters went into Big Box Marine. Calif Bill bought ten feet of anchor line Gould bought ten feet of rope to use for an anchor rode Jax bought ten feet of rope to use for an anchor rope. The young clerk on duty got rather confused by it all, and forgot what the cordage was supposed to sell for. The clerk charged all three rec.boats posters $10 @. Before the posters could relocate their argument to the parking lot, the manager of Big Box Marine asked the clerk about the sale. The clerk said, "I didn't know what to charge, so they each paid $10." "That's too much said the manager of Big Box Marine, " {{OK OKIt's a fable already so give me a break}} "Take $5 out of the till and give it back to them." The clerk didn't know how to divide $5 by three, so he took a $2 "tip" and gave eachof the rec.boaters a $1 refund. Since the cordage originally cost each poster $10 and they received $1 back, the net cost per poster could be said to be $9. Since 9X3 = 27, and the clerk absoconded with $2....what happened to the extra buck? ($27 + 2 = $29) Who will be the first "unstumped" by this one? :-) |
What anchor should I buy?
The people paid $30 originally, with the $5 taken from the till that makes
the actual cost $25. The people paid $27 less the $2 the clerk took, it becomes $25. "Calif Bill" wrote in message nk.net... The tax man clerk. They actually paid $30 with a $5 rebate for the rope/line/twine. Then the Federal government trained clerk took the rebate and charged a 40% handling charge to administer the rebate. About like the rest of the Federal Government on giving back the taxes they extracted from the states, to give back to the states. But if the clerk was really government material, he would have added some extra requirements to the 60% of the rebate he let the payers have. Bill "Gould 0738" wrote in message ... The acutal solution: The rec.boats posters went into Big Box Marine. Calif Bill bought ten feet of anchor line Gould bought ten feet of rope to use for an anchor rode Jax bought ten feet of rope to use for an anchor rope. The young clerk on duty got rather confused by it all, and forgot what the cordage was supposed to sell for. The clerk charged all three rec.boats posters $10 @. Before the posters could relocate their argument to the parking lot, the manager of Big Box Marine asked the clerk about the sale. The clerk said, "I didn't know what to charge, so they each paid $10." "That's too much said the manager of Big Box Marine, " {{OK OKIt's a fable already so give me a break}} "Take $5 out of the till and give it back to them." The clerk didn't know how to divide $5 by three, so he took a $2 "tip" and gave eachof the rec.boaters a $1 refund. Since the cordage originally cost each poster $10 and they received $1 back, the net cost per poster could be said to be $9. Since 9X3 = 27, and the clerk absoconded with $2....what happened to the extra buck? ($27 + 2 = $29) Who will be the first "unstumped" by this one? :-) |
What anchor should I buy?
The people paid $30 originally, with the $5 taken from the till that makes
the actual cost $25. The people paid $27 less the $2 the clerk took, it becomes $25. Very close. In fact, you may have it figured out and I'm not quite bright enough to follow your explanation. The problem confounds some people who are led into doing a certain type of math. The $9 apiece is really a red herring. Like good propaganda, it uses someting that appears logical to support something that is not true. $30 aggregate from the buyers. At this point the cost of the goods was $30. That changed to $25, momentarily, when the manager instructed the clerk to refund $5 fom the till. The cost went back up to $27 when the clerk "reduced the refund" by two bucks. Add the dollar apiece given to the three posters to $27, and all $30 is accounted for. But 3 x $9 is still $27, and the clerk took $2. Amazing what you can do with a carefully selected portion of the truth and a deliberately calculated presentation. |
What anchor should I buy?
Also Sprach JAXAshby :
However, no one in their right mind would call Manhattan an island in the Atlantic ocean. It's surrounde by rivers on all sides, for gods sake. you are just jealous that you don't live in the Center Of The Universe. Actually, I used to live there, grew up there in fact. Spent 5 years in school in Atlanta, decided to get out of that hellhole. Moved back to NY for my first job. Entire company was moved to Mexico 3 years later. Then I moved to Seattle, been here ever since. It's like New York without all the assclowns. and FYI, I live precisely 20 miles from the Center of the Universe... at least that's what the sign says. http://www.seattlephotographs.com/ph...nt_sign_2d.htm Dan -- "A good engineer gets stale very fast if he doesn't keep his hands dirty." -- Wernher von Braun |
What anchor should I buy?
On Wed, 19 May 2004 17:54:46 -0400, "Gene Kearns"
wrote: pwmeek wrote: On adding chain to the rode: I like to have chain equal to the weight of the anchor. Unless you are anchoring in coral or some other abrasive bottom, six to ten feet is plenty, so you up the size of the chain to get the weight up. With a 25# danforth, use ten feet of 1/2" chain (overkill for strength, but about the right weight). If you are using this for the original 19' boat.... you certainly *will* be anchored.... Actually, that IS the rig I use on my 20' center console. I occasionally wish it were lighter, but not as often as I am glad I have it when I make a first-try set on hard clay in a 4 kt current. I usually find that only an inch or two of the flukes have penetrated into the clay when I retrieve. Once another boat, that failed in making a set, t-boned me (his side/my bow). On that retrieve, nearly 6" had dug in. Maybe not typical, but it's MY worst-case anchoring problem. I've also used it to kedge off a mud bank that I ran up on. It took 4 of us pulling to drag us off. (An embarrassing error on my part -- don't ask.) I do carry a 10# mushroom for a lunch "hook". |
What anchor should I buy?
I am glad I have it when I make
a first-try set on hard clay in a 4 kt current. why do you use a Danforth in hard clay? |
What anchor should I buy?
On Thu, 20 May 2004 18:34:50 -0400, "Gene Kearns"
wrote: On Thu, 20 May 2004 08:20:46 -0400, Peter W. Meek wrote: On Wed, 19 May 2004 17:54:46 -0400, "Gene Kearns" wrote: pwmeek wrote: On adding chain to the rode: I like to have chain equal to the weight of the anchor. Unless you are anchoring in coral or some other abrasive bottom, six to ten feet is plenty, so you up the size of the chain to get the weight up. With a 25# danforth, use ten feet of 1/2" chain (overkill for strength, but about the right weight). If you are using this for the original 19' boat.... you certainly *will* be anchored.... Actually, that IS the rig I use on my 20' center console. I occasionally wish it were lighter, but not as often as I am glad I have it when I make a first-try set on hard clay in a 4 kt current. I usually find that only an inch or two of the flukes have penetrated into the clay when I retrieve. Once another boat, that failed in making a set, t-boned me (his side/my bow). On that retrieve, nearly 6" had dug in. Maybe not typical, but it's MY worst-case anchoring problem. A Danforth is absolutely the worst anchor you could be using if your conditions are clay. Danforth's are beautiful in sand and soft mud, but nearly useless in hard clay. I'd go for a lighter plow type anchor like a S-L Delta set-fast. Less back breaking work and more holding power. My Bruce works well in clay. Also works in mud and sand and just about everything. I have a CQR, Danforth and Bruce and just about always use the Bruce as the primary anchor. It sets and resets fast, holds well and is easy to break out. Steve |
What anchor should I buy?
and is easy to break out.
Steve the true test of an anchor. |
What anchor should I buy?
On Thu, 20 May 2004 18:34:50 -0400, "Gene Kearns"
wrote: I usually find that only an inch or two of the flukes have penetrated into the clay when I retrieve. Once another boat, that failed in making a set, t-boned me (his side/my bow). On that retrieve, nearly 6" had dug in. Maybe not typical, but it's MY worst-case anchoring problem. A Danforth is absolutely the worst anchor you could be using if your conditions are clay. Danforth's are beautiful in sand and soft mud, but nearly useless in hard clay. I'd go for a lighter plow type anchor like a S-L Delta set-fast. Less back breaking work and more holding power. My problem isn't holding power, it's making the set at all. I could probably use a grappling hook with a weight on the shank. I get plenty of holding power from the ***2 or 3 square inches*** of the tips of the flukes that dig in. I'm talking a glassy surface with slight undulations. I lower the anchor to the bottom and let out 7 or 8 to one scope with NO tension. Then I drag the anchor, holding the rode in my fingertips, feeling for the first catch, and then pull slightly harder, hoping that the tips are caught on one of the ripples. As I ease the tips into the clay I apply more tension until I think it will hold. At that point I can reduce scope to about 4 or 5 to 1. Then I cleat it off. Once a much larger boat (35'?) missed his set and drifted (at 4 kts) sideways down onto my bow. When he hit, I thought he would break my set, since I knew that only an inch or two of the tips were dug in. To my surprise, it held. When I pulled the anchor (with MUCH difficulty -- up and down, cleat it off, rock the boat, power back and forth) there was clay on only about 5 or 6 inches of the tips of the flukes. The clay has to be chipped off with a screw driver. It is much stiffer than cold plasticine (the green, oily modeling clay). I suspect that if I set a plow anchor there, I'd have to cut the line and leave it at the end of the day. This is at the north end of the channel that runs behind Belle Isle in the Detroit River. It is the location of the spectator fleet for the hydroplane races. Watching people try to anchor there is almost as much fun as a day at the public boat ramps. Much cutting of rodes by people who miss their sets and try to power out of a mess. And the usual gang of first timers who try to anchor with a mushroom and enough poly line to reach the 40' bottom. Every year one of these guys prepares to drop his mushroom about where someone else's anchor is dug in and has to be shouted off by the other boats anchored in the area. |
What anchor should I buy?
|
What anchor should I buy?
yup, an anchor that is easy to pull loose from the bottom, THAT is the best
choice of anchors. and is easy to break out. Steve the true test of an anchor. I wouldn't say the true test. But it's one of the many characteristics of a good anchor in addition to the ones you snipped, which include: My Bruce works well in clay. Also works in mud and sand and just about everything. [...] It sets and resets fast, holds well and is easy to break out. If an anchor is not easy to break out, I'd only be using it for either times when I plan to anchor for days or weeks on end and not just an overnight or two like I usually do or as a second anchor for when the wind kicks up. It would not be my primary anchor. Steve |
What anchor should I buy?
my goodness. what fine, fine sailors.
and is easy to break out. Steve the true test of an anchor. and easy retrieval is one of my prime considerations when choosing an anchor. and relatively inexpensive. why? I've lost a number of them over the years never heard of a trip line, eh? |
What anchor should I buy?
You finally got something right.
"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... yup, an anchor that is easy to pull loose from the bottom, THAT is the best choice of anchors. and is easy to break out. Steve the true test of an anchor. I wouldn't say the true test. But it's one of the many characteristics of a good anchor in addition to the ones you snipped, which include: My Bruce works well in clay. Also works in mud and sand and just about everything. [...] It sets and resets fast, holds well and is easy to break out. If an anchor is not easy to break out, I'd only be using it for either times when I plan to anchor for days or weeks on end and not just an overnight or two like I usually do or as a second anchor for when the wind kicks up. It would not be my primary anchor. Steve |
What anchor should I buy?
On 21 May 2004 14:54:04 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:
what fine, fine sailors. Thank you for the compliment. Steve |
What anchor should I buy?
|
What anchor should I buy?
4# of tin foil is even easier to pull loose from the bottom, unless of course
you hang 400 feet of chain on it. Then it would take nearly a 9 knot wind to break it free. for the kristes sake guys. have you no clew on how to break out an anchor using the engine, or sails if your boat does not have a working engine? You finally got something right. "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... yup, an anchor that is easy to pull loose from the bottom, THAT is the best choice of anchors. and is easy to break out. Steve the true test of an anchor. I wouldn't say the true test. But it's one of the many characteristics of a good anchor in addition to the ones you snipped, which include: My Bruce works well in clay. Also works in mud and sand and just about everything. [...] It sets and resets fast, holds well and is easy to break out. If an anchor is not easy to break out, I'd only be using it for either times when I plan to anchor for days or weeks on end and not just an overnight or two like I usually do or as a second anchor for when the wind kicks up. It would not be my primary anchor. Steve |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:30 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com