Guys,

I got my Merc 1250 running fine. Then I decided to change the timing
belt which is very loose. While doing this the belt slipped and I
lost the timing.

According to online stuff for smilar motors the timing has to be set
by making the arrow on the distrubutor pully point to the line on the
flywheel.

When I did that the motor idles very high (3000 rpm).

There is a whole bunch of marks on flywheel and pulleys but i dont
know how they have to be ligned up.

Does anybody know? (this is a 1969 I6 motor, Thunferbolt ignition)

Any help appreciated (the dealer wont touch this motor


Matt

Your best bet would be to go to a dealer and see if they will at least let
you borrow the service manual for that motor it has in it how to line up the
pulleys when you put the belt back on.
Or you could have them order you a service manual if they won't let you
borrow it.
good luck Scott

--
This is my web site
www.scott-the-boat-doctor.com
"Matt Lang" wrote in message
om...
Guys,

I got my Merc 1250 running fine. Then I decided to change the timing
belt which is very loose. While doing this the belt slipped and I
lost the timing.

According to online stuff for smilar motors the timing has to be set
by making the arrow on the distrubutor pully point to the line on the
flywheel.

When I did that the motor idles very high (3000 rpm).

There is a whole bunch of marks on flywheel and pulleys but i dont
know how they have to be ligned up.

Does anybody know? (this is a 1969 I6 motor, Thunferbolt ignition)

Any help appreciated (the dealer wont touch this motor


Matt

"Scott Hall" wrote in message ...
Your best bet would be to go to a dealer and see if they will at least let
you borrow the service manual for that motor it has in it how to line up the
pulleys when you put the belt back on.
Or you could have them order you a service manual if they won't let you
borrow it.
good luck Scott



Thanks Scott!

The dealer wont touch the motor but maybe he will let me take a look
at their manual

I find my Seloc how to manual very useful for my old '83. Maybe take a look
through this site http://www.selocmarine.com/start.cfm to see if they
have the manual for you.


Matt Lang wrote in message
om...
Guys,

I got my Merc 1250 running fine. Then I decided to change the timing
belt which is very loose. While doing this the belt slipped and I
lost the timing.

According to online stuff for smilar motors the timing has to be set
by making the arrow on the distrubutor pully point to the line on the
flywheel.

When I did that the motor idles very high (3000 rpm).

There is a whole bunch of marks on flywheel and pulleys but i dont
know how they have to be ligned up.

Does anybody know? (this is a 1969 I6 motor, Thunferbolt ignition)

Any help appreciated (the dealer wont touch this motor


Matt

If it's like it's later 115 and 150 cousins:

There is a "nib" on the bottom of the pulley and a corrosponding "nib" on
the block where the distributor mounts through. When those two nibs are
lined up the thing should be at TDC on #1. (In practice it's like 4 degrees
before TDC)

HOWEVER, since it *does* run and idle, I'd bet it all that you are off by
only ONE tooth. Just slip the belt off the top of the distributor and
retard it by 1 and you outta be all set. If you had the idle OK before you
started, then it will be real easy to tell when you have the belt back where
it belongs.

Once you have all that fixed, you should set max advance at WOT to 34
degrees before TDC.

-W

"Matt Lang" wrote in message
om...
Guys,

I got my Merc 1250 running fine. Then I decided to change the timing
belt which is very loose. While doing this the belt slipped and I
lost the timing.

According to online stuff for smilar motors the timing has to be set
by making the arrow on the distrubutor pully point to the line on the
flywheel.

When I did that the motor idles very high (3000 rpm).

There is a whole bunch of marks on flywheel and pulleys but i dont
know how they have to be ligned up.

Does anybody know? (this is a 1969 I6 motor, Thunferbolt ignition)

Any help appreciated (the dealer wont touch this motor


Matt

And DON'T do this running,

Pull all the plugs Except #1 and put the timing light on that with a cold
engine. No *way* a cold inline will ever accidentally start.

-W

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
ink.net...
If it's like it's later 115 and 150 cousins:

There is a "nib" on the bottom of the pulley and a corrosponding "nib" on
the block where the distributor mounts through. When those two nibs are
lined up the thing should be at TDC on #1. (In practice it's like 4
degrees
before TDC)

HOWEVER, since it *does* run and idle, I'd bet it all that you are off by
only ONE tooth. Just slip the belt off the top of the distributor and
retard it by 1 and you outta be all set. If you had the idle OK before you
started, then it will be real easy to tell when you have the belt back
where
it belongs.

Once you have all that fixed, you should set max advance at WOT to 34
degrees before TDC.

-W

"Matt Lang" wrote in message
om...
Guys,

I got my Merc 1250 running fine. Then I decided to change the timing
belt which is very loose. While doing this the belt slipped and I
lost the timing.

According to online stuff for smilar motors the timing has to be set
by making the arrow on the distrubutor pully point to the line on the
flywheel.

When I did that the motor idles very high (3000 rpm).

There is a whole bunch of marks on flywheel and pulleys but i dont
know how they have to be ligned up.

Does anybody know? (this is a 1969 I6 motor, Thunferbolt ignition)

Any help appreciated (the dealer wont touch this motor


Matt

Thanks Clams

If it's like it's later 115 and 150 cousins:

There is a "nib" on the bottom of the pulley and a corrosponding "nib" on
the block where the distributor mounts through. When those two nibs are
lined up the thing should be at TDC on #1. (In practice it's like 4 degrees
before TDC)

I noticed the nibs but the instructions I found for similar motor
didnt talk about these nibs at all ...


When lining up the marks on the pulley with the line on the flywheel
then the nibs dont line up. Its like this is cursed


HOWEVER, since it *does* run and idle, I'd bet it all that you are off by
only ONE tooth. Just slip the belt off the top of the distributor and
retard it by 1 and you outta be all set. If you had the idle OK before you
started, then it will be real easy to tell when you have the belt back where
it belongs.

I think too, the belt slipped when we tried to take off the thing that
is equal to a car's harmonic balancer (it coldnt be pulled off and
while trying the belt slipped)


Once you have all that fixed, you should set max advance at WOT to 34
degrees before TDC.

How do you do that? Crank the motor without plugs while you full
throttle it?
Is the fine adjustment done same as with a car where you turn the
distributor?


Matt