"Proxy" wrote in message
able.rogers.com...
Hi All,
I own a Bayliner with a V8 OMC 5L engine. I noticed, when running the
engine
with hose attached, that the exhaust fumes contain quite a lot of steam.

That is not unusual or unexpected.


PS. the engine starts and runs OK, just like nothing happened.


I think that you may be concerned over nothing.

Steam coming from the exhaust is not unusual. The combustion of gasoline
produces a lot of water vapor. On a car the exhaust is usually so hot that
the water comes out in the form of superheated steam and you don't see it.
An exception is right after you start and the exhaust pipe is still cold.

On your boat, the water cooling of the exhaust cools it down enough that the
superheated steam cools to become saturated steam and then you see it. In
addition, the water is cooling very hot exhaust manifolds and even more
steam is generated.

When you run the boat on the lake the saturated steam enters the water,
cools and condenses so that you don't see it while idling.

Your compression results are high enough that I can assure you that you
don't have a blown head gasket.

Based on what you have described I don't see any indication of there being a
problem. Put your boat back together and go boating!

Rod

Rod, there is a little more as to this engine history than I initially
included. I did not want to overcomplicate the picture. Please see my other
response and state what you think. It is a problem of compression test
results vs all other indications that makes me wonder.
I appreciate any input.


"Rod McInnis" wrote in message
...

"Proxy" wrote in message
able.rogers.com...
Hi All,
I own a Bayliner with a V8 OMC 5L engine. I noticed, when running the
engine
with hose attached, that the exhaust fumes contain quite a lot of steam.

That is not unusual or unexpected.


PS. the engine starts and runs OK, just like nothing happened.


I think that you may be concerned over nothing.

Steam coming from the exhaust is not unusual. The combustion of gasoline
produces a lot of water vapor. On a car the exhaust is usually so hot
that
the water comes out in the form of superheated steam and you don't see it.
An exception is right after you start and the exhaust pipe is still cold.

On your boat, the water cooling of the exhaust cools it down enough that
the
superheated steam cools to become saturated steam and then you see it. In
addition, the water is cooling very hot exhaust manifolds and even more
steam is generated.

When you run the boat on the lake the saturated steam enters the water,
cools and condenses so that you don't see it while idling.

Your compression results are high enough that I can assure you that you
don't have a blown head gasket.

Based on what you have described I don't see any indication of there being
a
problem. Put your boat back together and go boating!

Rod

I would change oil and filter, first thing. This will allow you to see if
water really is getting in the oil. Next, nothing you said but the clouded
oil and too high level would really point to a blown head gasket or cracked
block. I would save that thought on the back burner and start with new oil
and go to the river and motor around a bit staying close to the landing and
keep an eye on the temp. gage. Afterward , I would check the new oil for
water (cloudy?) and pull the plugs and see if old #4 looks weird. If there
is water entering that cylinder it should make that plug cleaner. Also spin
it over like you did before, without plugs, and see if you get any water. A
little river running under a load should make a suspected leak more
noticable. I hope your charmed motor stays that way.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel

Just did that. See my comments above. I tend to agree with Rod McInnis that
it looks like a massive oil passage-cooling system leak accompanied by much
smaller to the cylinder. That way you can have high compression and lots of
water in your crankcase like in my case. I see that as a "hotspot" in the
gasket that also could have potentially caused a crack/warp (I hope not). I
think that water jacket pressure test would reveal if I have to do both
heads or just one. It all boils down to good diagnostics and methodology.
Good troubleshooting is my forté although I have little experience with
engines. I'm quite technicaly inclined so dismantling the engine is not
something I'm scared of. The issue is to do just what is required, nothing
more nothing less. In my case: 1 or both heads? Would hate to find out that
the one I took off was just perfect. From compression test looks like odd
side looks good and the only anomaly is #4 on even side. Or am I missing
something?


"Ron White" wrote in message
...
I would change oil and filter, first thing. This will allow you to see if
water really is getting in the oil. Next, nothing you said but the clouded
oil and too high level would really point to a blown head gasket or
cracked
block. I would save that thought on the back burner and start with new oil
and go to the river and motor around a bit staying close to the landing
and
keep an eye on the temp. gage. Afterward , I would check the new oil for
water (cloudy?) and pull the plugs and see if old #4 looks weird. If there
is water entering that cylinder it should make that plug cleaner. Also
spin
it over like you did before, without plugs, and see if you get any water.
A
little river running under a load should make a suspected leak more
noticable. I hope your charmed motor stays that way.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel

What do you guys think of some of the sealants sold on the market. Example
he
http://www.rxauto.com/pages/1/index.htm
Any better ideas?