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#1
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message ... Thanks Gary! What you described makes perfect sense. I printed out your post and took it out to the boat for comparison. The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? I don't think a fuse is required there. I just decided to do it on the "what can it hurt" theory. I really don't know what size fuse to use there. That's a question I have myself. |
#2
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
Gary Warner wrote:
"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message ... Thanks Gary! What you described makes perfect sense. I printed out your post and took it out to the boat for comparison. The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? I don't think a fuse is required there. I just decided to do it on the "what can it hurt" theory. I really don't know what size fuse to use there. That's a question I have myself. Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive post. It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the damage of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery. -- __________m___~¿Ô___m____________________________ |
#3
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"____m___~¿Ô___m____" wrote in message news:%TEfc.33606 Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive post. It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the damage of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery. I don't understand what you mean by amperage potential of the battery. Do you mean the power is it capable of delivering TO the fuse panel if there was ever some big draw there (like a short) ?? |
#4
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
Gary Warner wrote:
"____m___~¿Ô___m____" wrote in message news:%TEfc.33606 Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive post. It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the damage of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery. I don't understand what you mean by amperage potential of the battery. Do you mean the power is it capable of delivering TO the fuse panel if there was ever some big draw there (like a short) ?? That is correct. The battery stores more amps. -- __________m___~¿Ô___m____________________________ |
#5
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"Gary Warner" wrote in message ... The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? In general, the fuse/circuit breaker should be sized appropriately to protect the wiring, not any device on the circuit. The wire should be sized so that it can carry the maximum output of the alternator with a comfortable margin. The fuse should be sized so that the fuse blows if the current should exceed the rating of the wire. You can do a web search to find tables that provide wire size vs. current capacity. I don't think a fuse is required there. I just decided to do it on the "what can it hurt" theory. Well, one thing that it can hurt is the alternator! Fuses can fatigue and fail without their ratings ever being exceeded. If the fuse opens while the alternator is running at full output and leaves the alternator disconnected from any load there is a high probability that the resulting voltage spike will destroy the diodes in the alternator. Rod |
#6
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"Rod McInnis" wrote in message ... . The fuse should be sized so that the fuse blows if the current should exceed the rating of the wire. You can do a web search to find tables that provide wire size vs. current capacity. Now that makes sense. Thanks. |
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