Pics of our boat / restoration at: http://tinyurl.com/spsv

Gary



Great pics! When I think back on all the time I've spent on my restoration,
then see a project like yours, I realize how out of hand (wife's words, not
mine) this hobby can get. I keep wondering what I'll do once this boat is
done. My father-in-law has a 12' Peterborough Speedster (circa 1954) that's
been sitting untouched in his boathouse for the past 20 years. I'm thinking
this may be a good opportunity to tackle a "manageable" size wooden boat
restoration.

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...



Great pics! When I think back on all the time I've spent on my
restoration,
then see a project like yours, I realize how out of hand (wife's words,
not
mine) this hobby can get. I keep wondering what I'll do once this boat is
done. My father-in-law has a 12' Peterborough Speedster (circa 1954)
that's
been sitting untouched in his boathouse for the past 20 years. I'm
thinking
this may be a good opportunity to tackle a "manageable" size wooden boat
restoration.


Thanks Doug.

Yea, I'm very grateful that my mom and my girlkfriend are both
"boater friendly" and have given us lots of encouragement all
through this project.

What part of the country are you in Doug??

Gary

"____m___~¿Ô___m____" wrote in message
news:%TEfc.33606

Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive
post.
It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the
damage
of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs
disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery.


I don't understand what you mean by amperage potential of the battery. Do
you
mean the power is it capable of delivering TO the fuse panel if there was
ever
some big draw there (like a short) ??

Gary Warner wrote:


"____m___~¿Ô___m____" wrote in message
news:%TEfc.33606

Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive
post.
It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the
damage
of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs
disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery.


I don't understand what you mean by amperage potential of the battery. Do
you
mean the power is it capable of delivering TO the fuse panel if there was
ever
some big draw there (like a short) ??

That is correct. The battery stores more amps.
--
__________m___~¿Ô___m____________________________

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...


The only difference I found is that the
wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put
one in? If so, what amperage?

In general, the fuse/circuit breaker should be sized appropriately to
protect the wiring, not any device on the circuit. The wire should be sized
so that it can carry the maximum output of the alternator with a comfortable
margin. The fuse should be sized so that the fuse blows if the current
should exceed the rating of the wire. You can do a web search to find
tables that provide wire size vs. current capacity.




I don't think a fuse is required there. I just decided to do it on the
"what
can it hurt" theory.


Well, one thing that it can hurt is the alternator!

Fuses can fatigue and fail without their ratings ever being exceeded. If
the fuse opens while the alternator is running at full output and leaves the
alternator disconnected from any load there is a high probability that the
resulting voltage spike will destroy the diodes in the alternator.

Rod

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 21:38:56 GMT, "Douglas St. Clair"
wrote:
What you described makes perfect sense. I printed out your post and took it
out to the boat for comparison. The only difference I found is that the
wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one
in? If so, what amperage?

===================================

The wire from the alternator should definitely be fused as close to
the alternator as possible, preferably within a foot or two. A fuse
rating equal to alternator maximum output plus 15 or 20% would be
about right.

"Rod McInnis" wrote in message
...

. The fuse should be sized so that the fuse blows if the current
should exceed the rating of the wire. You can do a web search to find
tables that provide wire size vs. current capacity.


Now that makes sense. Thanks.

What part of the country are you in Doug??

Gary


Rochester, NY - spend time in the summer at Stony Lake, Ontario (Kawartha
Lakes Region / My in-law's cottage).

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...

What part of the country are you in Doug??

Gary


Rochester, NY - spend time in the summer at Stony Lake, Ontario (Kawartha
Lakes Region / My in-law's cottage).


I'm in the Berkshires Mass. Very good chance we'll be going to the
antique boat show in Skaneateles July 30 & 31.