Got a long neglected white, fiberglass boat hull I want to get looking nice.
I don't have the physical stamina and endurance to do much in the way of
physical labor. But, I do have a good electric buffer and lots of chamois
pads.

Is there any kind of gunk I can put on a buffer pad and let the buffer get
it cleaned up?

There are several good polishes that will finish the job that I can dry
buff, once I rub them on.

But, I need something to substitute for main strength and awkwardness in
getting the hull clean to the point I can then polish/wax it.

Suggestion ... if you try buffing using rubbing compound with a "light
weight" buffer, you will burn it out. You will require a heavier duty 2-spd
buffer ... which can get pretty heavy after the first 10-12 hours :-) The
light weight buffer may be ok for the yearly waxing and polishing.

Another suggestion, try doing maybe a small spot say on the stern using #800
wet paper with a trickle of water from the garden hose for rinse. I think
you will find not much work is required to quickly get rid of the chalky
surface and bring up a nice shine. You may find the work's not too hard ...
mainly takes time ... but we're all different. If you use the #800, you may
get away with going from that directly to applying the 3M wax/rubbing
compound combo product.

But man, that starting with even a coarse rubbing compound is gonna be a
lotta work. Just ask my son ... I paid him a coupla hundred to get my new to
me old beater (18' I/O) looking good. If it's any consolation, the neighbor
across the way said he just could not believe how nice the shine came up ...
looks like new he said ... unbelievable he said.

So ... for a really chalky boat, from experience I suggest #800 wet for
most, if not all the hull/deck, then optionally the 2-spd buffer with
compound, and lastly the polisher or 2-spd buffer with the 3M wax/rubbing
compound product.

Oh yeah, if there is pinstriping/decals suggest you peel those off ... and
remove all the rails/fittings before starting.

And that's why I was quoted between $800-$1200 to have mine done.



RB wrote in message
. ..
Got a long neglected white, fiberglass boat hull I want to get looking
nice.
I don't have the physical stamina and endurance to do much in the way of
physical labor. But, I do have a good electric buffer and lots of chamois
pads.

Is there any kind of gunk I can put on a buffer pad and let the buffer get
it cleaned up?

There are several good polishes that will finish the job that I can dry
buff, once I rub them on.

But, I need something to substitute for main strength and awkwardness in
getting the hull clean to the point I can then polish/wax it.

"Bowgus" wrote in message
e.rogers.com...
So ... for a really chalky boat, from experience I suggest #800 wet for
most, if not all the hull/deck, then optionally the 2-spd buffer with
compound, and lastly the polisher or 2-spd buffer with the 3M wax/rubbing
compound product.

You can get even finer grit wet/dry paper from automotive supply stores and
it works great and minimizes the rubbing/cutting compound work. (I used
#1000, medium rubbing compound, and wax - all by hand and the gelcoat is, as
you say, 'like new'.

Larry

"RB" wrote in message
. ..

Is there any kind of gunk I can put on a buffer pad and let the buffer get
it cleaned up?


The basics of buffing is to use a "rubbing compound". This is essentially
an abrasive in paste format. Sort of like using a very, very fine
sandpaper. Smear some on the buffing pad and go to work. If the fiberglass
is heavily oxidized you may want to start with a "course" or "heavy duty"
rubbing compound to start with and then go over it again with a finer grit.

I find that holding the buffer is work enough, especially when you aren't
accustomed to it.

Rod McInnis

"Rod McInnis" wrote in message ...
"RB" wrote in message
. ..

Is there any kind of gunk I can put on a buffer pad and let the buffer get
it cleaned up?


The basics of buffing is to use a "rubbing compound". This is essentially
an abrasive in paste format. Sort of like using a very, very fine
sandpaper. Smear some on the buffing pad and go to work. If the fiberglass
is heavily oxidized you may want to start with a "course" or "heavy duty"
rubbing compound to start with and then go over it again with a finer grit.

I find that holding the buffer is work enough, especially when you aren't
accustomed to it.

Rod McInnis

I would use the 3M Perfect It III rubbing compound. It is somewhat
more expensive but well worth it. I used it on a boat that sat in the
sun for ten years and it now looks new. The boat was also red and
very oxidized.