if you can bypass the trigger to make your test then the powerpack (switch)
can most likely be tested (switch & coil).
by doing this, I found my motor had a switch / coil problem.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I had one of those engines with the thunderbolt ignition. (early 80's
and 70's)

I had a problem too where it didnt start, it was the trigger. Located
in the
distributer I found it by simply tracing the the wires too and from
where they
came out of the power pack. As long as its wired and got juice when I
turned
on the key, I then looked at the rest of it.

Pain in the ass it was... To replace the trigger (located in the
distributer) you replace the entire distributer assembly. That
included pulling the flywheel, replacing the timing belt and
reassembly. Got a used one from a boat junkyard and away I went.

I traced this whole thing down using a VOM meter and some beer. Took a

week or so of on and off playing with it, but those early engines are
rather simple
to work on.

Tom

P.S. Make sure the coil is working well. All you need to do to test
if its getting energy to create a charge is hook up the positive side
of the volt meter to the same lead that comes from the power pack and
the negative side goes to anywhere on the engine.
When you turn it over the needle (of numbers if digital) should start
going.
Make sure not and I mean NOT to connect the volt meter to the ignition
wire (spark plug wire that goes to the distributer) That'll be the end
of the meter!
Anywho, if the line is dead, you got something else going on....
That's just the start of the troubleshooting process..... Always make
sure the power pack is wired up right and getting power in the first
place.