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#1
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Is the power pack the problem???
Hello
i just bought a used 50hp mercury and they told me that the power pack was not working fine. so i bougt one, i exchanged it but the problem still there. It is not sparking what else could be worng? or how can i check if the power packc are good i have 3 PP's i already tried them and nothing. any ideas. How can i test the PP's? |
#2
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"jocast" wrote in message ups.com... Hello i just bought a used 50hp mercury and they told me that the power pack was not working fine. so i bougt one, i exchanged it but the problem still there. It is not sparking what else could be worng? or how can i check if the power packc are good i have 3 PP's i already tried them and nothing. any ideas. How can i test the PP's? You can't properly test the power packs as it takes special equipment. You can try asking here http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi but you need to give a little more info like year and serial no would help too. Check the FAQs there for "motor won't start" |
#3
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There are 4 items that are candidates for failure. (1) Depending on model
the stator should produce a specific voltage usually around 165 between certain leads as measured with a DVA. (a special meter that reads peak voltages and stores the readings). (2) A bad rectifier. You can disconnect the rectifier and crank the engine. OFTEN if this is the problem you will get spark. (3) A bad pack, unfortunately there is a long detailed sequence for testing the pack on the engine if you have a DVA meter and the procedure that is unique to your specific engine. (4) A bad trigger, again this requires a DVA and the specific procedure for your engine. Unfortunately many marine mechanics are not equipped with the tools and procedures to resolve this problem efficiently. As a result it is common to replace one part at a time until they finally stumble onto the defective part. Once electrical parts are purchased or pulled from stock they are not usually returnable. The procedures are more guarded that the gold at Ft Knox! Basically because a good mechanic can make good money resolving these types of ignition problems AFTER several other mechanics have tried and failed! Hence they keep these procedure to themselves as their "ace in the hole" to help them earn a living. The cost of a DVA is several hundred dollars, and while it is also useful as a VOM it is a rather expensive item to have to resole trouble on one engine. The bottom line is If you live in the Kansas City area a mechanic friend can resolve the problem. If you live elsewhere you may want to find a good mechanic who is skilled with Merk Thunderbolt Ignition Systems, has a DVA and the RAPAIR procedures. Another way to look at it is to simply purchase all 4 components and do the labor yourself. (Stator, Rectifier, Trigger, and Power Pack [Switch Box]). While this can be expensive, it is often the cheapest route especially if your mechanic does that anyway, one part at a time You might just as well buy all the parts up front and do the labor yourself. Again, the only easily tested component is the rectifier. Hope this bad news helps. Don Dando "jocast" wrote in message ups.com... Hello i just bought a used 50hp mercury and they told me that the power pack was not working fine. so i bougt one, i exchanged it but the problem still there. It is not sparking what else could be worng? or how can i check if the power packc are good i have 3 PP's i already tried them and nothing. any ideas. How can i test the PP's? |
#4
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I had one of those engines with the thunderbolt ignition. (early 80's
and 70's) I had a problem too where it didnt start, it was the trigger. Located in the distributer I found it by simply tracing the the wires too and from where they came out of the power pack. As long as its wired and got juice when I turned on the key, I then looked at the rest of it. Pain in the ass it was... To replace the trigger (located in the distributer) you replace the entire distributer assembly. That included pulling the flywheel, replacing the timing belt and reassembly. Got a used one from a boat junkyard and away I went. I traced this whole thing down using a VOM meter and some beer. Took a week or so of on and off playing with it, but those early engines are rather simple to work on. Tom P.S. Make sure the coil is working well. All you need to do to test if its getting energy to create a charge is hook up the positive side of the volt meter to the same lead that comes from the power pack and the negative side goes to anywhere on the engine. When you turn it over the needle (of numbers if digital) should start going. Make sure not and I mean NOT to connect the volt meter to the ignition wire (spark plug wire that goes to the distributer) That'll be the end of the meter! Anywho, if the line is dead, you got something else going on.... That's just the start of the troubleshooting process..... Always make sure the power pack is wired up right and getting power in the first place. |
#5
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if you can bypass the trigger to make your test then the powerpack (switch)
can most likely be tested (switch & coil). by doing this, I found my motor had a switch / coil problem. wrote in message ups.com... I had one of those engines with the thunderbolt ignition. (early 80's and 70's) I had a problem too where it didnt start, it was the trigger. Located in the distributer I found it by simply tracing the the wires too and from where they came out of the power pack. As long as its wired and got juice when I turned on the key, I then looked at the rest of it. Pain in the ass it was... To replace the trigger (located in the distributer) you replace the entire distributer assembly. That included pulling the flywheel, replacing the timing belt and reassembly. Got a used one from a boat junkyard and away I went. I traced this whole thing down using a VOM meter and some beer. Took a week or so of on and off playing with it, but those early engines are rather simple to work on. Tom P.S. Make sure the coil is working well. All you need to do to test if its getting energy to create a charge is hook up the positive side of the volt meter to the same lead that comes from the power pack and the negative side goes to anywhere on the engine. When you turn it over the needle (of numbers if digital) should start going. Make sure not and I mean NOT to connect the volt meter to the ignition wire (spark plug wire that goes to the distributer) That'll be the end of the meter! Anywho, if the line is dead, you got something else going on.... That's just the start of the troubleshooting process..... Always make sure the power pack is wired up right and getting power in the first place. |
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