I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.

If you absolutely must have a 32 amp fuse, just wire up a 20, a
10 and a 2 amp fuse all in parallel. It'll work like the hard to
find value and you can use a cheaper muktifuse fuse holder strip.
Use all the same types, ie fast blow. Voltage shouldn't matter,
12 volt rating or up is OK.

After it blows, you will want a spare set, or a jumper.

I tested a combination of a 10 and a 5 to win a 10 dollar bet, 35
years ago. None of the other techs in the section could believe
it. A current limited power supply sat there at 15 amps for half
an hour, and when overloaded, both fuses blew simultaneously
after about 5 minutes at somewhere around 17 or 18 amps.


Fuses get a little warm at full load.

Terry K

Dean wrote:

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:43:03 -0400, Frank Ciuca
wrote:

Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places.

Go to a car audio place. They'd be happy to hook you up with a 50-100
amp inline fuse...

-Dean
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SofDevCo

Fuses are not resistors. They are wire that melts at a certain
temperature, thus a certain amperage at standard ambient temperature.
In 40 years in electronics I have never seen a case where a fuse was
considered anything but a wire. If a fuse or breaker gets warm so will
the wire.

Ron

P.S. You don't fuse a 32 amp load with a 32 amp fuse, unless you like
replacing fuses frequently. You fuse at the battery to protect in case
of catostropic failure, such as the cables shorting out. That is why
auto fuse links at the battery are rated at hundreds of amps, so you can
pull a full load of say 50 amps and blow the fuse link if a cable short
tries to pull thousands of amps.

Ron