Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Great ideas, Frank. That T connector would do what I want. What is the
name of it? -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario "Frank Ciuca" a écrit dans le message de ... Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well, anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well, good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup, not on a boat. As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options, one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs (imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor, as well as the lights. Buck Frobisher wrote: Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where potentially explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But, if the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying next to a life vest.... Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job for under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a brand new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat. It just so happens that I bought a Minn Kota on sale at Canadian Tire today (28 lb thrust, for a 14' bowrider) and the leads aren't long enough to go to the battery. The cable on the motor ends in spade lugs, and the booklet says to use 6 gauge wire for the extension. What I was going to use was an old battery jumper cable that will give me the length I need, and terminate it in a nice lug to go on the battery terminal. On the motor's cable, short of cutting the spade lugs off, can anyone think of a simple screw type connector so that I can disconnect it when I want to? Plus, any sites or names of Toronto-area stores that carry 12v marine accessories would be handy. Thanks for any advice! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Trolling motor = need fuse?
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:24:28 -0400, "Buck Frobisher"
wrote: -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario "Frank Ciuca" a écrit dans le message de ... Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well, anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well, good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup, not on a boat. Blue Sea Systems sells high-amperage fuses - up to 400 amps, or more. Of course, they don't fit the 1/4" x 1-1/4" fuseholders.... As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options, one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs (imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor, as well as the lights. sounds like a Blue Sea Systems "Power Post" (Although I wouldn't call them "Cheap" - but you could always fabricate your own from threaded rod and scrap plastic.) See http://www.bluesea.com/index.htm -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|