Decided to crank my boat in the driveway after a general clean up for
spring fishing, and much to my surprise, it didn't start. Very unusual
for this motor, it starts well. Take the plugs out, they're wet with
fuel. Clean them up, thinking I simply flooded it. Put them back in,
crank and crank, not a whimper. Take a plug out, ground it on the head,
crank and no fire! To the manual I go. Now, here is the trouble. The
tests in the manual require a neon Evinrude test light. I won't have
this particular boat long, I'm upgrading! I don't want to own the above
test light. The tests also use a spark tester, which shows the spark
for each of the four cylinders. Does anyone know how to test the
components with common tools, such as a timing light, single spark
tester, digital multimeter, etc?

wrote:
Decided to crank my boat in the driveway after a general clean up for
spring fishing, and much to my surprise, it didn't start. Very unusual
for this motor, it starts well. Take the plugs out, they're wet with
fuel. Clean them up, thinking I simply flooded it. Put them back in,
crank and crank, not a whimper. Take a plug out, ground it on the head,
crank and no fire! To the manual I go. Now, here is the trouble. The
tests in the manual require a neon Evinrude test light. I won't have
this particular boat long, I'm upgrading! I don't want to own the above
test light. The tests also use a spark tester, which shows the spark
for each of the four cylinders. Does anyone know how to test the
components with common tools, such as a timing light, single spark
tester, digital multimeter, etc?


First check the resistance of the sensor coils. Disconnect the leads
(they are Black w/White & White w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 &
#12 of the power pack. They should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to
ground (~ ohms). The charge coils are tested by checking the resistance
of the brown & brown/yellow leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700 ohms,
and again no shorts to ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much
as the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or Sierra
as #18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft.
lbs.

Your problem is probably the Power Pack. It's a good idea to have a
spare -known good- power pack anyway... what we've seen is that the
power pack sometimes warms up in the sun while the cover/hood is off,
starting the engine and running fine, until the next cold start.
Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY screw and
terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery to the outboard.

Good Luck!

Rob

trainfan1 wrote:
wrote:
Decided to crank my boat in the driveway after a general clean up
for
spring fishing, and much to my surprise, it didn't start. Very
unusual
for this motor, it starts well. Take the plugs out, they're wet
with
fuel. Clean them up, thinking I simply flooded it. Put them back
in,
crank and crank, not a whimper. Take a plug out, ground it on the
head,
crank and no fire! To the manual I go. Now, here is the trouble.
The
tests in the manual require a neon Evinrude test light. I won't
have
this particular boat long, I'm upgrading! I don't want to own the
above
test light. The tests also use a spark tester, which shows the
spark
for each of the four cylinders. Does anyone know how to test the
components with common tools, such as a timing light, single spark
tester, digital multimeter, etc?


First check the resistance of the sensor coils. Disconnect the leads

(they are Black w/White & White w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 &

#12 of the power pack. They should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to
ground (~ ohms). The charge coils are tested by checking the
resistance
of the brown & brown/yellow leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700
ohms,
and again no shorts to ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much
as the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or
Sierra
as #18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors
is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from
the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft.
lbs.

Your problem is probably the Power Pack. It's a good idea to have a
spare -known good- power pack anyway... what we've seen is that the
power pack sometimes warms up in the sun while the cover/hood is off,

starting the engine and running fine, until the next cold start.
Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY screw and
terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery to the
outboard.

Good Luck!

Rob

Thanks for the info, I'll get on it this weekend.

trainfan1 wrote:
wrote:
Decided to crank my boat in the driveway after a general clean up
for
spring fishing, and much to my surprise, it didn't start. Very
unusual
for this motor, it starts well. Take the plugs out, they're wet
with
fuel. Clean them up, thinking I simply flooded it. Put them back
in,
crank and crank, not a whimper. Take a plug out, ground it on the
head,
crank and no fire! To the manual I go. Now, here is the trouble.
The
tests in the manual require a neon Evinrude test light. I won't
have
this particular boat long, I'm upgrading! I don't want to own the
above
test light. The tests also use a spark tester, which shows the
spark
for each of the four cylinders. Does anyone know how to test the
components with common tools, such as a timing light, single spark
tester, digital multimeter, etc?


First check the resistance of the sensor coils. Disconnect the leads

(they are Black w/White & White w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 &

#12 of the power pack. They should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to
ground (~ ohms). The charge coils are tested by checking the
resistance
of the brown & brown/yellow leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700
ohms,
and again no shorts to ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much
as the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or
Sierra
as #18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors
is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from
the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft.
lbs.

Your problem is probably the Power Pack. It's a good idea to have a
spare -known good- power pack anyway... what we've seen is that the
power pack sometimes warms up in the sun while the cover/hood is off,

starting the engine and running fine, until the next cold start.
Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY screw and
terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery to the
outboard.

Good Luck!

Rob

After doing to above tests, it has fire. I think maybe one of the wires
on the pack wasn't making good contact.

On 22 Mar 2005 13:08:42 -0800, wrote:

Decided to crank my boat in the driveway after a general clean up for
spring fishing, and much to my surprise, it didn't start. Very unusual
for this motor, it starts well. Take the plugs out, they're wet with
fuel. Clean them up, thinking I simply flooded it. Put them back in,
crank and crank, not a whimper. Take a plug out, ground it on the head,
crank and no fire! To the manual I go. Now, here is the trouble. The
tests in the manual require a neon Evinrude test light. I won't have
this particular boat long, I'm upgrading! I don't want to own the above
test light. The tests also use a spark tester, which shows the spark
for each of the four cylinders. Does anyone know how to test the
components with common tools, such as a timing light, single spark
tester, digital multimeter, etc?

Sometimes the spack wont show on a tester. Put one hand on the block,
and put the plug wire to your tounge, and then crank the engine.

HarryKrause wrote:
On 22 Mar 2005 13:08:42 -0800, wrote:

Decided to crank my boat in the driveway after a general clean up
for
spring fishing, and much to my surprise, it didn't start. Very
unusual
for this motor, it starts well. Take the plugs out, they're wet with
fuel. Clean them up, thinking I simply flooded it. Put them back in,
crank and crank, not a whimper. Take a plug out, ground it on the
head,
crank and no fire! To the manual I go. Now, here is the trouble. The
tests in the manual require a neon Evinrude test light. I won't have
this particular boat long, I'm upgrading! I don't want to own the
above
test light. The tests also use a spark tester, which shows the spark
for each of the four cylinders. Does anyone know how to test the
components with common tools, such as a timing light, single spark
tester, digital multimeter, etc?

Sometimes the spack wont show on a tester. Put one hand on the block,
and put the plug wire to your tounge, and then crank the engine.

I don't own a "spack" tester. I do, however own a SPARK tester. Nice
try, Harry imposter. You sure are pathetic.