Hello again all,

I have a question that I'm hoping someone can answer for me.

I needed a new water pump for my boat, it has an OMC 3.8L V6 (GM 229
3.8L V6)so I did some pricing and a new (BOAT)water pump was around
60.00-160.00 depending on were you bought it. So I went to my local
Autoparts store and brought the old water pump with me and after some
searching found one that looked the exact same, bolt holes,
inlets/outlet, everything the same... It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............

"Radman" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello again all,

I have a question that I'm hoping someone can answer for me.

I needed a new water pump for my boat, it has an OMC 3.8L V6 (GM 229
3.8L V6)so I did some pricing and a new (BOAT)water pump was around
60.00-160.00 depending on were you bought it. So I went to my local
Autoparts store and brought the old water pump with me and after some
searching found one that looked the exact same, bolt holes,
inlets/outlet, everything the same... It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............



In regard to the cooling systems, one of the major differences is found in
the water-circulating pump. This is especially noticable when you have a
raw water cooled engine. Unlike their automotive counterpart, a marine pump
works in an open cooling system. This type of system is extremely corrosive
to the pump. Therefore, the pump must be altered for longevity. A marine
pump has a special ceramic seal, stainless steel backing plate, and a bronze
impeller to resist corrosion. An automotive style pump, with its stamped
steel impeller, would fail due to corrosion in a short time.

http://www.boatfix.com/how/marineeng.html

Radman wrote:

Hello again all,

I have a question that I'm hoping someone can answer for me.

I needed a new water pump for my boat, it has an OMC 3.8L V6 (GM 229
3.8L V6)so I did some pricing and a new (BOAT)water pump was around
60.00-160.00 depending on were you bought it. So I went to my local
Autoparts store and brought the old water pump with me and after some
searching found one that looked the exact same, bolt holes,
inlets/outlet, everything the same... It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............


It will fail sooner. The marine pump will have a bronze impeller, and
possibly bronze bushings/sleeves/seal & bearing retainers, and a chromed
or plated shaft. I have never really checked this... but the "weep
hole" may be sealed off or have a bronze plug too. You absolutely do
not want to pump water into your boat if(when) the shaft seal lets go -
remember, you have a raw water pump in the leg providing an unlimited
supply, under pressure.

Rob

For what it's worth (since we seem we have the same engine ... uneven (odd)
fire?), and I knew my temp gauge was working, I'd give it a try ... in the
laneway using the garden hose/muffs. Once it's up to operating temperature
(my thermostat's a 140 F), I'd watch that gauge real careful with my hand on
the key to make sure it stays there ... and then check for, or have a helper
check for warm water in the exhaust.

"Radman" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello again all,

I have a question that I'm hoping someone can answer for me.

I needed a new water pump for my boat, it has an OMC 3.8L V6 (GM 229
3.8L V6)so I did some pricing and a new (BOAT)water pump was around
60.00-160.00 depending on were you bought it. So I went to my local
Autoparts store and brought the old water pump with me and after some
searching found one that looked the exact same, bolt holes,
inlets/outlet, everything the same... It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............

Good points on the locale ... mine's in fresh water, raw water cooled.

"bowgus" wrote in message
...
For what it's worth (since we seem we have the same engine ... uneven
(odd)
fire?), and I knew my temp gauge was working, I'd give it a try ... in the
laneway using the garden hose/muffs. Once it's up to operating temperature
(my thermostat's a 140 F), I'd watch that gauge real careful with my hand
on
the key to make sure it stays there ... and then check for, or have a
helper
check for warm water in the exhaust.

"Radman" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello again all,

I have a question that I'm hoping someone can answer for me.

I needed a new water pump for my boat, it has an OMC 3.8L V6 (GM 229
3.8L V6)so I did some pricing and a new (BOAT)water pump was around
60.00-160.00 depending on were you bought it. So I went to my local
Autoparts store and brought the old water pump with me and after some
searching found one that looked the exact same, bolt holes,
inlets/outlet, everything the same... It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............

As most posters have pointed out, the marine version is more corrosion
resistant. If you boat in fresh water the life expectancy difference might
not be that noticeable. In salt is another story. And if you don't mind
putting them on, you can buy several for the price of a single marine
version.

"Radman" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello again all,

I have a question that I'm hoping someone can answer for me.

I needed a new water pump for my boat, it has an OMC 3.8L V6 (GM 229
3.8L V6)so I did some pricing and a new (BOAT)water pump was around
60.00-160.00 depending on were you bought it. So I went to my local
Autoparts store and brought the old water pump with me and after some
searching found one that looked the exact same, bolt holes,
inlets/outlet, everything the same... It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............

Thanks all of you guys who answered the question I posted. I will be
using it only if fresh water, no salt water... I guess I will run it
for a while and maybe just buy a Marine version just to have just in
case..

Thanks, again...Radman...

It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............


The rotation would be the same. But the "Marine" version pump is usually
"powder coated" on the inside as well as the out to prevent rust and corrosion.
PLUS the bearings on the marine egine are usually sealed better and pre lubed.
something that isn't found on automotive units because the car versions rely on
anti-freeze to work as a lubricant and plus anti-freeze doesn't rust.

That's the main difference.

I'd say your pump will probably last a season. But I'd go with the others. the
OEM Marine version is the way to go.


Tim

"BSCHNAUTZ" wrote in message
...
It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............


The rotation would be the same. But the "Marine" version pump is usually
"powder coated" on the inside as well as the out to prevent rust and
corrosion.
PLUS the bearings on the marine egine are usually sealed better and pre
lubed.
something that isn't found on automotive units because the car versions
rely on
anti-freeze to work as a lubricant and plus anti-freeze doesn't rust.

That's the main difference.

I'd say your pump will probably last a season. But I'd go with the others.
the
OEM Marine version is the way to go.



A true marine circulation pump has a heavy cast iron impeller with straight
blades so it will work in either rotation motor. An automotive pump usually
has a stamped sheet-metal impeller with angled blades for "left hand" normal
rotation engines. Also the thin steel impeller will quickly corrode away in
a sal****er motor, causing a hard to find overheat problem.

Bill Grannis
service manager

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 22:53:59 GMT, "Billgran"
wrote:


"BSCHNAUTZ" wrote in message
...
It was actually for an 1970 307
Gm motor, got it for 25.00 new... What I'm now wondering is will it
mater if it (waterpump) was designed for a boat or car, are there any
differences, is the rotation differnt???? Just want to make sure before
installing it and running the motor.. Thanks for any info you guys can
give me....

Radman............


The rotation would be the same. But the "Marine" version pump is usually
"powder coated" on the inside as well as the out to prevent rust and
corrosion.
PLUS the bearings on the marine egine are usually sealed better and pre
lubed.
something that isn't found on automotive units because the car versions
rely on
anti-freeze to work as a lubricant and plus anti-freeze doesn't rust.

That's the main difference.

I'd say your pump will probably last a season. But I'd go with the others.
the
OEM Marine version is the way to go.



A true marine circulation pump has a heavy cast iron impeller with straight
blades so it will work in either rotation motor. An automotive pump usually
has a stamped sheet-metal impeller with angled blades for "left hand" normal
rotation engines. Also the thin steel impeller will quickly corrode away in
a sal****er motor, causing a hard to find overheat problem.

Bill Grannis
service manager


Good to know. Thanks Bill.

John H

On the 'PocoLoco' out of Deale, MD,
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

"Divide each difficulty into as many parts as is feasible and necessary to resolve it."
Rene Descartes