I'm considering purchasing a '97 Hydra-Sports Ocean 22 and wonder if
anyone has any experience with this boat. I'll use it primarily for
bay fishing with occasional offshore trips in the Gulf. My main
concern is construction - does anyone know if the transom/stringers
are wood or composite? Secondary is ride - especially in 4-6' seas.
Also wondering about the Evinrude 200 Ocean Pro ('97 as well). Any
advice would be greatly appreciated.

On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 14:07:46 GMT, (Tom)
wrote:

I'm considering purchasing a '97 Hydra-Sports Ocean 22 and wonder if
anyone has any experience with this boat. I'll use it primarily for
bay fishing with occasional offshore trips in the Gulf. My main
concern is construction - does anyone know if the transom/stringers
are wood or composite? Secondary is ride - especially in 4-6' seas.
Also wondering about the Evinrude 200 Ocean Pro ('97 as well). Any
advice would be greatly appreciated.

Highly recommended for the type of fishing you contemplate. The
offshore thing in the Gulf is always problem, but the nice thing is
you can make the run back in a hurry. There is plenty of fishing room
on the foredeck - the aft deck is problematic unless you have the
runabout/walkthru version in which case, the reverse it true.

It's a little twitchy in terms of stability when running, but the ones
that I've ridden in and fished out of were more than adequate. I
wouldn't press my luck with more than three folk fishing at the same
time. As always, engine trim on boats of this class has a lot to do
with how the ride is. On boats that I've been on, that does not seem
to be a problem like it is with my Ranger which is a comparable boat.

The problem with this boat isn't the stringers, but the transom, in
particular around the engine mounts. Minor stress cracks where the
engine is mounted is acceptable, but stress cracks along the top of
the transom where the engine is mounted aren't.

You might want to tap out the bottom for blisters or have it looked
over by a pro. This is not a normal problem for Hydra Sports, but it
pays to be sure. If this boat has hydraulic steering, check the hoses
for cracks and leaks at the ram.

With regard to the engine, this was a transition year for
Evinrude/Johnson/OMC. Assuming that the engine has been running
relatively problem free since it was new, then I wouldn't worry about
it unless you have extreme hours on it. With engines of this vintage
and because it is a transition era Evinrude, it would be a good idea
to determine how many hours are on the engine, have it compression
checked, have a mechanic scope out the cylinders to check for
excessive wear, pull the lower unit and have the seals pressure tested
and just for the hell of it, changed anyway, prop shaft should be
mic'd to see if it's out of round or bent and change the gear oil just
because.

I would also check the trim fluid just to be sure.

Other than that, just be careful with the purchase, ask lot's of
questions, make sure this is what you really want and if the Fishing
Gods smile on you, you will have a pretty decent fishing boat.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply and good info. See more below:
It's a little twitchy in terms of stability when running, but the ones
that I've ridden in and fished out of were more than adequate. I
wouldn't press my luck with more than three folk fishing at the same
time. As always, engine trim on boats of this class has a lot to do
with how the ride is. On boats that I've been on, that does not seem
to be a problem like it is with my Ranger which is a comparable boat.
I had a '21 Mako that was kinda touchy - especially when trimmed out
but hyd. trim tabs stabilized pretty well and this one has them - hope
the result is the same.

The problem with this boat isn't the stringers, but the transom, in
particular around the engine mounts. Minor stress cracks where the
engine is mounted is acceptable, but stress cracks along the top of
the transom where the engine is mounted aren't.

So this has a wooden transom??

You might want to tap out the bottom for blisters or have it looked
over by a pro. This is not a normal problem for Hydra Sports, but it
pays to be sure. If this boat has hydraulic steering, check the hoses
for cracks and leaks at the ram.

With regard to the engine, this was a transition year for
Evinrude/Johnson/OMC. Assuming that the engine has been running
relatively problem free since it was new, then I wouldn't worry about
it unless you have extreme hours on it. With engines of this vintage
and because it is a transition era Evinrude, it would be a good idea
to determine how many hours are on the engine, have it compression
checked, have a mechanic scope out the cylinders to check for
excessive wear, pull the lower unit and have the seals pressure tested
and just for the hell of it, changed anyway, prop shaft should be
mic'd to see if it's out of round or bent and change the gear oil just
because.

Has 280 hours - supposedly problem free until he hit a sandbar in '03
- replaced the lower unit with factory new. I can do a compression
test but a mechanic checkout would be a good idea.

I would also check the trim fluid just to be sure.

Other than that, just be careful with the purchase, ask lot's of
questions, make sure this is what you really want and if the Fishing
Gods smile on you, you will have a pretty decent fishing boat.

I'll do that. I'm also looking at a couple of newer boats but this is
about half the price and it's tempting to pay cash rather than finance
part. Maybe upgrade in a couple of years when more 4 strokes hit the
used market. Just don't want to get stuck with a "problem child" -
boats are a deep enough hole in the water as it is.

Good luck.

Thanks - again, I appreciate the help. Take care.

Tom.............

On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 19:41:31 GMT, (Tom)
wrote:

Thanks for the reply and good info. See more below:
It's a little twitchy in terms of stability when running, but the ones
that I've ridden in and fished out of were more than adequate. I
wouldn't press my luck with more than three folk fishing at the same
time. As always, engine trim on boats of this class has a lot to do
with how the ride is. On boats that I've been on, that does not seem
to be a problem like it is with my Ranger which is a comparable boat.
I had a '21 Mako that was kinda touchy - especially when trimmed out
but hyd. trim tabs stabilized pretty well and this one has them - hope
the result is the same.

The problem with this boat isn't the stringers, but the transom, in
particular around the engine mounts. Minor stress cracks where the
engine is mounted is acceptable, but stress cracks along the top of
the transom where the engine is mounted aren't.

So this has a wooden transom??

It's a wood core, but that isn't the issue. It's the way the
fiberglass was laid on some boats. This wasn't across the whole
product line - it was strictly some of the Ocean Runner series. The
stringers are composite.

You might want to tap out the bottom for blisters or have it looked
over by a pro. This is not a normal problem for Hydra Sports, but it
pays to be sure. If this boat has hydraulic steering, check the hoses
for cracks and leaks at the ram.

With regard to the engine, this was a transition year for
Evinrude/Johnson/OMC. Assuming that the engine has been running
relatively problem free since it was new, then I wouldn't worry about
it unless you have extreme hours on it. With engines of this vintage
and because it is a transition era Evinrude, it would be a good idea
to determine how many hours are on the engine, have it compression
checked, have a mechanic scope out the cylinders to check for
excessive wear, pull the lower unit and have the seals pressure tested
and just for the hell of it, changed anyway, prop shaft should be
mic'd to see if it's out of round or bent and change the gear oil just
because.

Has 280 hours - supposedly problem free until he hit a sandbar in '03
- replaced the lower unit with factory new. I can do a compression
test but a mechanic checkout would be a good idea.

If he hit the sandbar hard enough to break the lower unit, then I
would consider the engine suspect. Not bad (because I've done this
myself and the engine was fine), just have it looked over. Pay a good
mechanic that knows Evinrudes an hours worth of time to check it.

280 hours isn't all that much for a '97 - less than 40 per year - not
unheard of certainly. Actually, I would have preferred to see more
hours on the engine for it's age.

I would also check the trim fluid just to be sure.

Other than that, just be careful with the purchase, ask lot's of
questions, make sure this is what you really want and if the Fishing
Gods smile on you, you will have a pretty decent fishing boat.

I'll do that. I'm also looking at a couple of newer boats but this is
about half the price and it's tempting to pay cash rather than finance
part. Maybe upgrade in a couple of years when more 4 strokes hit the
used market. Just don't want to get stuck with a "problem child" -
boats are a deep enough hole in the water as it is.

Around this area, with trailer in good condition, everything being
relatively equal, these are running from $14,500 to $21,000 depending
on the engine/electronics package. I have seen one somewhere, can't
remember where, for around $10,000 - don't know if there was wrong
with it.

There are a ton of boats for sale out there. I'm considering selling
my Ranger this coming Spring, but there are a god awful bunch of boats
out there for sale - it's incredible.

Hopefully, you've stumbled into something good.

Good luck.

Thanks - again, I appreciate the help. Take care.

Let us know what happens and how you make out.

It's a wood core, but that isn't the issue. It's the way the
fiberglass was laid on some boats. This wasn't across the whole
product line - it was strictly some of the Ocean Runner series. The
stringers are composite.

Don't you still run into potential problems if mounting holes weren't
sealed properly?


If he hit the sandbar hard enough to break the lower unit, then I
would consider the engine suspect. Not bad (because I've done this
myself and the engine was fine), just have it looked over. Pay a good
mechanic that knows Evinrudes an hours worth of time to check it.

I'll have to find out more about it - it was replaced with a factory
new unit and hopefully the mechanic would have checked it out but you
never know..

280 hours isn't all that much for a '97 - less than 40 per year - not
unheard of certainly. Actually, I would have preferred to see more
hours on the engine for it's age.

It's been used entirely in fresh water so no long runs offshore. One
concern is that it was used for Striper fishing (has downriggers so
obviously some trolling time).

Around this area, with trailer in good condition, everything being
relatively equal, these are running from $14,500 to $21,000 depending
on the engine/electronics package. I have seen one somewhere, can't
remember where, for around $10,000 - don't know if there was wrong
with it.

What part of the country are you in? Those seem to be a little high
(NADA low retail is $11,050 - high retail is $13,585 on this boat ) -
is that a pretty accurate guide? Maybe I should buy this one and bring
it to your part of the country. :-).

There are a ton of boats for sale out there. I'm considering selling
my Ranger this coming Spring, but there are a god awful bunch of boats
out there for sale - it's incredible.

There are quite a few. I figure if I'm going to buy at this time of
the year it should be a bargain - otherwise I might as well wait until
later in the spring.

Hopefully, you've stumbled into something good.

I hope so - time will tell.
Thanks again.

On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 21:02:11 GMT, (Tom)
wrote:


It's a wood core, but that isn't the issue. It's the way the
fiberglass was laid on some boats. This wasn't across the whole
product line - it was strictly some of the Ocean Runner series. The
stringers are composite.

Don't you still run into potential problems if mounting holes weren't
sealed properly?

Yes - but I'm assuming that isn't a problem. It COULD be a problem
for you. :)

What I was talking about was the way the glass was laid along the top
of the transom and a potential glass/backing problem in the transom
itself. As I said, there weren't a lot of these boats with that
problem, but it did exist.

If he hit the sandbar hard enough to break the lower unit, then I
would consider the engine suspect. Not bad (because I've done this
myself and the engine was fine), just have it looked over. Pay a good
mechanic that knows Evinrudes an hours worth of time to check it.

I'll have to find out more about it - it was replaced with a factory
new unit and hopefully the mechanic would have checked it out but you
never know..

That's exactly it - you never know. I'm not an expert by any means,
but I hang around a sales/service shop when nothing else is going on
(I know the owner and the service manager) and I see "things" that you
might not realize can happen when lower units hit stuff. Just be
careful - doesn't mean the engine is junk.

280 hours isn't all that much for a '97 - less than 40 per year - not
unheard of certainly. Actually, I would have preferred to see more
hours on the engine for it's age.

It's been used entirely in fresh water so no long runs offshore. One
concern is that it was used for Striper fishing (has downriggers so
obviously some trolling time).

Low speed isn't a critical issue - not at less than 40 hours a year.

Around this area, with trailer in good condition, everything being
relatively equal, these are running from $14,500 to $21,000 depending
on the engine/electronics package. I have seen one somewhere, can't
remember where, for around $10,000 - don't know if there was wrong
with it.

What part of the country are you in? Those seem to be a little high
(NADA low retail is $11,050 - high retail is $13,585 on this boat ) -
is that a pretty accurate guide? Maybe I should buy this one and bring
it to your part of the country. :-).

I live in CT and are certainly welcome to try it - you might have to
wait for a while.

With respect to NADA, I've found them to be fairly accurate, but there
are regional differences. BUC often seems way higher, but allows for
condition adjustments that NADA doesn't.

There are a ton of boats for sale out there. I'm considering selling
my Ranger this coming Spring, but there are a god awful bunch of boats
out there for sale - it's incredible.

There are quite a few. I figure if I'm going to buy at this time of
the year it should be a bargain - otherwise I might as well wait until
later in the spring.

Hopefully, you've stumbled into something good.

I hope so - time will tell.
Thanks again.

No problem - good luck.

Later,

Tom

What I was talking about was the way the glass was laid along the top
of the transom and a potential glass/backing problem in the transom
itself. As I said, there weren't a lot of these boats with that
problem, but it did exist.

Thanks - I hope to look at it tomorrow (if not raining too bad) and
I'll watch closely for that.

That's exactly it - you never know. I'm not an expert by any means,
but I hang around a sales/service shop when nothing else is going on
(I know the owner and the service manager) and I see "things" that you
might not realize can happen when lower units hit stuff. Just be
careful - doesn't mean the engine is junk.
I agree, an hour at a good mechanic would be a good idea.

Low speed isn't a critical issue - not at less than 40 hours a year.

No concern about carbon build up?

I live in CT and are certainly welcome to try it - you might have to
wait for a while.
Thanks but I'll stick around where it's warm for awhile. :-)

With respect to NADA, I've found them to be fairly accurate, but there
are regional differences. BUC often seems way higher, but allows for
condition adjustments that NADA doesn't.

I signed up for BUC (but not the pro) and didn't get much out of it -
pretty limited without the upgrade.

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:15:18 GMT, (Tom)
wrote:


What I was talking about was the way the glass was laid along the top
of the transom and a potential glass/backing problem in the transom
itself. As I said, there weren't a lot of these boats with that
problem, but it did exist.

Thanks - I hope to look at it tomorrow (if not raining too bad) and
I'll watch closely for that.

That's exactly it - you never know. I'm not an expert by any means,
but I hang around a sales/service shop when nothing else is going on
(I know the owner and the service manager) and I see "things" that you
might not realize can happen when lower units hit stuff. Just be
careful - doesn't mean the engine is junk.
I agree, an hour at a good mechanic would be a good idea.

Low speed isn't a critical issue - not at less than 40 hours a year.

No concern about carbon build up?

Carbon is carbon. Use a good anti-carbon additive. I use the
Bombardier stuff, but I have three FICHTS. There are other products
out there.

I live in CT and are certainly welcome to try it - you might have to
wait for a while.
Thanks but I'll stick around where it's warm for awhile. :-)

~~ I hate you ~~

With respect to NADA, I've found them to be fairly accurate, but there
are regional differences. BUC often seems way higher, but allows for
condition adjustments that NADA doesn't.

I signed up for BUC (but not the pro) and didn't get much out of it -
pretty limited without the upgrade.

True.

Later,

Tom

~~ I hate you ~~

Sorry - If it makes you feel better it's going to get cold here
tomorrow and stay cold for a couple of days. :-) It's been in the 70's
lately so hasn't been too bad. Hope it warms up again after the
weekend so we can go to the bay - I'm still off next week.

Tom..Sounds like a great deal.I have owned a 22 footer hydrasports and was
extremely happy with it.It had a double walled hull..that year,a bit on the
heavy side ,but was accually a blessing for handling.also the high gunwales
to keep the kids in while fishing was aplus.That 200 ought to give plenty of
control.
Have fun,
Chad Hansen