Adding to what K said. The easiest way to see if the ballast is wired
correctly and working is to disconnect one end of the resistor while the
engine is running. The engine should quit. The resistor value should be some
where around 1.2 ohms.
JIMinFL
"K. Smith" wrote in message
...
wrote:
I have an early 1980's modle 318 Chrysler engine installed in a
mudboat. About 2 years ago I developed a problem with the Ignition
coil burning up. The engine has the original electronic ignition
system installed, but has been completely rewired by a Dodge
dealership, the control module, ballast resistor, and the distributor
pick-up assy. have been replaced. However, I continue to have the
problem. The engine runs perfectly for about 3 months and then without
any warning, will backfire and die. There will be no ignition fire
until the coil is replace, then the engine will start up and run fine
for another few months. Any help or suggestions with this problem would
be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks Ronnie



2 years ago the coil might have just died of old age, we all will:-) but
then ......

The rewire ??? Hmmm check the ballast resister is actually in the circuit
when the engine is running, the coil is designed to run on 7-8 volts via
the resistor, save when the starter is engaged the resistor is supposed to
be left out of the supply so the coil can get extra for start or at least
whatever is left over after the starter is fed.

If the rewirer goofed then the coil will start OK all the time of course
but once the engine is running the supply voltage won't be getting cut
back to 7 or 8 volts. Giving the coil 12 volts all the time will kill it
over time.


K