Maybe wrong coil. Maybe should be an internal resister coil and you are
putting in a no resister coil. They both need external ballast resistors.
Petronic's makes a coil that will work with electronic ignition with no
ballast resistor. The ballast resistor is to reduce peak current flow
through the points, adding a lot of lifespan to them.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On 20 Dec 2004 16:52:07 -0800, "wtbuck12"
wrote:

~~ snippage ~~

I appreciate all the responses very much. The resistor resistance is
app. 1.2 ohms and running voltage is 8.2 volts. Alternator output is
14.4 volts. The coil is mounted directly to the block and the bracket
seems to be tight and clean, no signs of corrision. I tried install a
higher resistance resistor and dropped the running voltage to 7 volts,
but that made the ign. fire too weak. I have tried using Mopar coils
as well as aftermarket coils with no noticeable differance. Someone
suggested using a HEAVY DUTY coil, where can I buy one and what do I
ask for? This problem certainly has myself, the Dodge dealership and
several local independent mechanics scratching our heads.

Auto parts places can come up with a heavier duty coil. Might want to
try a speed shop also.

BUT.....

I wonder if this is a heat related problem. Based on what you just
posted, it all sounds normal. Which makes me wonder what is breaking
down the insulation (which is what normally happens with a coil).
There is a lot of internal heat in a coil from it's normal
functioning, but perhaps it's located close to a heat source like
exhaust manifold? The only other thing I can think of is that the
coil is inducting a external charge by being located too close to a EM
source - perhaps a generator or something?

Just shots in the dark.

Later,

Tom