Is it a trailer boat?? ...

It is a 1969 40' fiberglass hull houseboat (no groans now). You are are
probably wondering if I'm crazy and if it's worth it. I paid 4k for the boat
so there is room for some investment (and I use the word loosely).

Remember the stern drive or OB itself is make of aluminium & put
together with stainless bolts & what nots. They are wet whenever the
boat is in the water, even worse the top of the gearbox is blasted with
very hot exhaust driven salt water when the engine is running (they
always corrode from the inside the outside paint etc is just fluff for
the punters:-)), so your 1/4" plates are not such a worry really.

Good point. I'm thinking aluminum because it is so much easier to work with.

Lots of people have stainless cables, chains or even heavy stainless
rod (me:-)) from the top of the transom to the duck board (swim platform).

I had thought of this but not having been around a lot of boats yet, I have
yet to see one supported this way and thought maybe it wasn't a sound way to
support the platform. I would assume you just bolt angle iron or similar to
the transom along the length of the platform to rest it on (bolted of
course)

Either that or I switch to aluminum angle
pieces and stainless bolts. Aluminum should be OK below water line?

Again only if it's a trailer type boat that comes out of the water most
of the year, a few weeks at a time would be OK but full time???, creates
antifoul problems also because you need the aluminium suitable stuff
which doesn't work too well:-)

I notice below some comments about maybe the transom is rotten?? be
careful here because replacing the transom core is just as you suspect a
big job to do yourself or an expensive one to have done for you. If you
have no other symptoms than those you've detailed & just want to tidy up
a bit then new stainless bolts, properly installed is the go.

I didn't pay much for the boat but it is old so of course I don't want to
spend my savings all on the transom.

Hope you don't mind but I've pasted one of my previous howtos on
transom repairs below; just so you can get some better understanding of
what a really big job it is, most older boats have a low value because
the cost of repairing the transom is not worth the money or owner effort.

Your how to is much appreciated Kay(?). I also pick up some West System
manuals. I will now just hope the transom core is just mostly wet.

Thanks again

sel1 wrote:
Is it a trailer boat?? ...


It is a 1969 40' fiberglass hull houseboat (no groans now). You are are
probably wondering if I'm crazy and if it's worth it. I paid 4k for the boat
so there is room for some investment (and I use the word loosely).

Cheap enough well done.


Remember the stern drive or OB itself is make of aluminium & put
together with stainless bolts & what nots. They are wet whenever the
boat is in the water, even worse the top of the gearbox is blasted with
very hot exhaust driven salt water when the engine is running (they
always corrode from the inside the outside paint etc is just fluff for
the punters:-)), so your 1/4" plates are not such a worry really.


Good point. I'm thinking aluminum because it is so much easier to work with.


Lots of people have stainless cables, chains or even heavy stainless
rod (me:-)) from the top of the transom to the duck board (swim platform).


I had thought of this but not having been around a lot of boats yet, I have
yet to see one supported this way and thought maybe it wasn't a sound way to
support the platform. I would assume you just bolt angle iron or similar to
the transom along the length of the platform to rest it on (bolted of
course)

Usually you have a hefty timber bolted across the transom where you
want the duck board to go, in this case you can made it go right across
& bolt it on with backing plates etc so it will also toughen up an older
transom a bit anyway.

Then using large stainless (or brass they're out of the water) hinges
you hinge the board to that timber. A couple of padeyes atop the transom
(close to the deck, backing places etc) & the same at the corners of the
duck board. You can pull it up against the stern when you want to get
close in stern first etc.



Either that or I switch to aluminum angle

pieces and stainless bolts. Aluminum should be OK below water line?

Again only if it's a trailer type boat that comes out of the water most
of the year, a few weeks at a time would be OK but full time???, creates
antifoul problems also because you need the aluminium suitable stuff
which doesn't work too well:-)

I notice below some comments about maybe the transom is rotten?? be
careful here because replacing the transom core is just as you suspect a
big job to do yourself or an expensive one to have done for you. If you
have no other symptoms than those you've detailed & just want to tidy up
a bit then new stainless bolts, properly installed is the go.


I didn't pay much for the boat but it is old so of course I don't want to
spend my savings all on the transom.

Don't be too worried about it; as I think it was Lloyd said, not many
older boats wouldn't have a bit of rot here & there. If you see obvious
signs of it flexing about under stress or delamination from the core
then consider some strengthening maybe before you go ripping the transom
to bits.


Hope you don't mind but I've pasted one of my previous howtos on
transom repairs below; just so you can get some better understanding of
what a really big job it is, most older boats have a low value because
the cost of repairing the transom is not worth the money or owner effort.


Your how to is much appreciated Kay(?). I also pick up some West System
manuals. I will now just hope the transom core is just mostly wet.

Enjoy it!!! at that price it's hard not to of course:-)

K

Thanks again

I just saw a nice chart of similar and dissimilar metals last week on the
Jamestown Distributors web site. It's he
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...compmetals.asp

JD has a lot of hardware and information for boatbuilders and
do-it-yourselfers.

"sel1" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I want to put on backing plates for all the stuff attached to the transom
(exhaust ports, swim platform, steering arms etc). Through continually
snugging them, the previous owner has burried a couple of nuts through the
glass! I am really new to all this but the first thing that comes to mind
is
reaction between two metals. If I use stainless bolts, could I use
aluminum
for backing plates or maybe I should use something else, or maybe I
shouldn't do this at all?

Still asking and not able to answer much yet.

Thanks, Steve

I use those hard 1/2" thick cutting boards with ss fender washers and nylock
nuts. Also I put epoxy between the backing plate and fiberglass. The
cutting board material cuts and drills like wood. Obviously it will never
rot and will not react with the bolts. I put my wake tower on 4 years ago
using them and I sometimes pull 6 people on 2 super screamer tubes from the
tower with no problems.

"sel1" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I want to put on backing plates for all the stuff attached to the transom
(exhaust ports, swim platform, steering arms etc). Through continually
snugging them, the previous owner has burried a couple of nuts through the
glass! I am really new to all this but the first thing that comes to mind
is
reaction between two metals. If I use stainless bolts, could I use
aluminum
for backing plates or maybe I should use something else, or maybe I
shouldn't do this at all?

Still asking and not able to answer much yet.

Thanks, Steve

I like this idea of using a white plastic cutting board for a backing plate.
I'm going to file that one away for myself.

Thanks

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
I use those hard 1/2" thick cutting boards with ss fender washers and
nylock
nuts. Also I put epoxy between the backing plate and fiberglass. The
cutting board material cuts and drills like wood. Obviously it will never
rot and will not react with the bolts. I put my wake tower on 4 years ago
using them and I sometimes pull 6 people on 2 super screamer tubes from
the
tower with no problems.

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 18:01:09 GMT, "JamesgangNC"
wrote:

I use those hard 1/2" thick cutting boards with ss fender washers and nylock
nuts. Also I put epoxy between the backing plate and fiberglass. The
cutting board material cuts and drills like wood.

It's called Starboard. There is also a variant out there, but I can't
remember the name.

Obviously it will never
rot and will not react with the bolts. I put my wake tower on 4 years ago
using them and I sometimes pull 6 people on 2 super screamer tubes from the
tower with no problems.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a wake board?

Later,

Tom

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 18:01:09 GMT, "JamesgangNC"
wrote:

I use those hard 1/2" thick cutting boards with ss fender washers and
nylock
nuts. Also I put epoxy between the backing plate and fiberglass. The
cutting board material cuts and drills like wood.

It's called Starboard. There is also a variant out there, but I can't
remember the name.

Obviously it will never
rot and will not react with the bolts. I put my wake tower on 4 years
ago
using them and I sometimes pull 6 people on 2 super screamer tubes from
the
tower with no problems.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a wake board?

Later,

Tom

As a snowboard is to snow skis, a wakeboard is to water skis.

http://www.sunrizedigitalmedia.com/B...2%29%20076.htm

:^)