I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and let
the new owner decide?

Just clean it up. There isn't a lot you can add to a 14' aluminum boat. If
you add anything, be aware that you won't get your money back, but it may
help make a sale.

"TC" wrote in message
...
I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and let
the new owner decide?

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:44:02 +0000, TC wrote:

I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and let
the new owner decide?

A couple of things I've done to my 12-footer:
- Clean and Paint!!!! A new paint job makes a 25-yr-old alum look
brand-new.
- Floor between 1 and 2 seats: adds a bit of weight and makes it so you
can't turn it upside-down well, but is great for standing and casting.
- "Anchor-locker" forward of 3 (bow) seat: This area isn't good for much
but storage, so I added a plywood bulkhead and used the spray-on truckbed
liner so things wouldn't clank
- I found it hard to mount the electric trolling motor on the transom, so
I added a "trolling motor mount" which was a piece of 2x6 bolted to the
transom
- Just in the process of adding lights for night running
- Rodholders, rodholders, rodholders!
- Oh, and when I bought it, it came with FULL CANVAS! The bimini top is
useful, but hard to cast around...

As for selling, I'd think a complete "setup" (boat, motor, trailer) is
more sell-able than parts. Get an old 15hp 2-stroke and a cheap trailer.

Lloyd Sumpter
"The Tin Boat" Mirrocraft 12

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 18:25:49 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:

To your advice, I'd hasten to add that hiring an "exotic dancer" to perform
in the boat might attract a greater number of lookers, which could increase
your chances of selling the yacht.

Every time I hear the term "exotic dancer", I'm reminded of "Adams
Family Values". When Fester was getting married, Lurch brought in the
huge cake - obviously a "exotic dancer" was supposed to jump out.
Gomez ta da'd the surprise, did it again, did it again, then went over
to the cake lifted off the top smoke poured out. Gomez asked Lurch if
he based the cake with the dancer in it and Lurch just hung his head.

Incredibly funny. :)

Later,

Tom

Did you use marine grade plywood?

Lloyd Sumpter wrote:

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:44:02 +0000, TC wrote:

I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do
to it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is
and let the new owner decide?

A couple of things I've done to my 12-footer:
- Clean and Paint!!!! A new paint job makes a 25-yr-old alum look
brand-new.
- Floor between 1 and 2 seats: adds a bit of weight and makes it so
you can't turn it upside-down well, but is great for standing and
casting. - "Anchor-locker" forward of 3 (bow) seat: This area isn't
good for much but storage, so I added a plywood bulkhead and used the
spray-on truckbed liner so things wouldn't clank
- I found it hard to mount the electric trolling motor on the
transom, so I added a "trolling motor mount" which was a piece of 2x6
bolted to the transom
- Just in the process of adding lights for night running
- Rodholders, rodholders, rodholders!
- Oh, and when I bought it, it came with FULL CANVAS! The bimini top
is useful, but hard to cast around...

As for selling, I'd think a complete "setup" (boat, motor, trailer) is
more sell-able than parts. Get an old 15hp 2-stroke and a cheap
trailer.

Lloyd Sumpter
"The Tin Boat" Mirrocraft 12

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:44:02 +0000, TC wrote:

I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and let
the new owner decide?

A couple of things I've done to my 12-footer:
- Clean and Paint!!!! A new paint job makes a 25-yr-old alum look
brand-new.
- Floor between 1 and 2 seats: adds a bit of weight and makes it so you
can't turn it upside-down well, but is great for standing and casting.
- "Anchor-locker" forward of 3 (bow) seat: This area isn't good for much
but storage, so I added a plywood bulkhead and used the spray-on truckbed
liner so things wouldn't clank
- I found it hard to mount the electric trolling motor on the transom, so
I added a "trolling motor mount" which was a piece of 2x6 bolted to the
transom
- Just in the process of adding lights for night running
- Rodholders, rodholders, rodholders!
- Oh, and when I bought it, it came with FULL CANVAS! The bimini top is
useful, but hard to cast around...

As for selling, I'd think a complete "setup" (boat, motor, trailer) is
more sell-able than parts. Get an old 15hp 2-stroke and a cheap trailer.

Lloyd Sumpter
"The Tin Boat" Mirrocraft 12



If you ever remove the anchor locker, I'd like to see pictures of how you
braced the wood. I've been trying to figure out the same project for awhile.
The only solution I see is to rivet metal braces to the hull to support the
wood. I'm not crazy about the idea, since pop rivets have a hole in them
after they're applied.

There are blind rivets that are waterproof. Check out kayak shops, as well
as airplane fixers.

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:44:02 +0000, TC wrote:

I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and let
the new owner decide?

A couple of things I've done to my 12-footer:
- Clean and Paint!!!! A new paint job makes a 25-yr-old alum look
brand-new.
- Floor between 1 and 2 seats: adds a bit of weight and makes it so you
can't turn it upside-down well, but is great for standing and casting.
- "Anchor-locker" forward of 3 (bow) seat: This area isn't good for much
but storage, so I added a plywood bulkhead and used the spray-on
truckbed
liner so things wouldn't clank
- I found it hard to mount the electric trolling motor on the transom,
so
I added a "trolling motor mount" which was a piece of 2x6 bolted to the
transom
- Just in the process of adding lights for night running
- Rodholders, rodholders, rodholders!
- Oh, and when I bought it, it came with FULL CANVAS! The bimini top is
useful, but hard to cast around...

As for selling, I'd think a complete "setup" (boat, motor, trailer) is
more sell-able than parts. Get an old 15hp 2-stroke and a cheap trailer.

Lloyd Sumpter
"The Tin Boat" Mirrocraft 12



If you ever remove the anchor locker, I'd like to see pictures of how you
braced the wood. I've been trying to figure out the same project for
awhile.
The only solution I see is to rivet metal braces to the hull to support
the
wood. I'm not crazy about the idea, since pop rivets have a hole in them
after they're applied.

Damn you. Now I have no excuse for not continuing with the project. Another
thing on the list.

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
k.net...
There are blind rivets that are waterproof. Check out kayak shops, as
well
as airplane fixers.

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:44:02 +0000, TC wrote:

I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do
to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and
let
the new owner decide?

A couple of things I've done to my 12-footer:
- Clean and Paint!!!! A new paint job makes a 25-yr-old alum look
brand-new.
- Floor between 1 and 2 seats: adds a bit of weight and makes it so
you
can't turn it upside-down well, but is great for standing and casting.
- "Anchor-locker" forward of 3 (bow) seat: This area isn't good for
much
but storage, so I added a plywood bulkhead and used the spray-on
truckbed
liner so things wouldn't clank
- I found it hard to mount the electric trolling motor on the transom,
so
I added a "trolling motor mount" which was a piece of 2x6 bolted to
the
transom
- Just in the process of adding lights for night running
- Rodholders, rodholders, rodholders!
- Oh, and when I bought it, it came with FULL CANVAS! The bimini top
is
useful, but hard to cast around...

As for selling, I'd think a complete "setup" (boat, motor, trailer) is
more sell-able than parts. Get an old 15hp 2-stroke and a cheap
trailer.

Lloyd Sumpter
"The Tin Boat" Mirrocraft 12



If you ever remove the anchor locker, I'd like to see pictures of how
you
braced the wood. I've been trying to figure out the same project for
awhile.
The only solution I see is to rivet metal braces to the hull to support
the
wood. I'm not crazy about the idea, since pop rivets have a hole in them
after they're applied.

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 12:46:05 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:


"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:44:02 +0000, TC wrote:

I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and let
the new owner decide?

A couple of things I've done to my 12-footer:
- Clean and Paint!!!! A new paint job makes a 25-yr-old alum look
brand-new.
- Floor between 1 and 2 seats: adds a bit of weight and makes it so you
can't turn it upside-down well, but is great for standing and casting.
- "Anchor-locker" forward of 3 (bow) seat: This area isn't good for much
but storage, so I added a plywood bulkhead and used the spray-on truckbed
liner so things wouldn't clank
- I found it hard to mount the electric trolling motor on the transom, so
I added a "trolling motor mount" which was a piece of 2x6 bolted to the
transom
- Just in the process of adding lights for night running
- Rodholders, rodholders, rodholders!
- Oh, and when I bought it, it came with FULL CANVAS! The bimini top is
useful, but hard to cast around...

As for selling, I'd think a complete "setup" (boat, motor, trailer) is
more sell-able than parts. Get an old 15hp 2-stroke and a cheap trailer.

Lloyd Sumpter
"The Tin Boat" Mirrocraft 12



If you ever remove the anchor locker, I'd like to see pictures of how you
braced the wood. I've been trying to figure out the same project for awhile.
The only solution I see is to rivet metal braces to the hull to support the
wood. I'm not crazy about the idea, since pop rivets have a hole in them
after they're applied.


You can always use stainless steel bolts and double nut them. Worked
for me......

Dave

"Dave Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 12:46:05 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:


"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 19:44:02 +0000, TC wrote:

I have a plain 14' Sears aluminum boat ("V" hull). It's in good
condition with no leaks. Are there any inexpensive things I can do
to
it to add value? Or would I be better off selling it as it is and
let
the new owner decide?

A couple of things I've done to my 12-footer:
- Clean and Paint!!!! A new paint job makes a 25-yr-old alum look
brand-new.
- Floor between 1 and 2 seats: adds a bit of weight and makes it so you
can't turn it upside-down well, but is great for standing and casting.
- "Anchor-locker" forward of 3 (bow) seat: This area isn't good for
much
but storage, so I added a plywood bulkhead and used the spray-on
truckbed
liner so things wouldn't clank
- I found it hard to mount the electric trolling motor on the transom,
so
I added a "trolling motor mount" which was a piece of 2x6 bolted to the
transom
- Just in the process of adding lights for night running
- Rodholders, rodholders, rodholders!
- Oh, and when I bought it, it came with FULL CANVAS! The bimini top is
useful, but hard to cast around...

As for selling, I'd think a complete "setup" (boat, motor, trailer) is
more sell-able than parts. Get an old 15hp 2-stroke and a cheap
trailer.

Lloyd Sumpter
"The Tin Boat" Mirrocraft 12



If you ever remove the anchor locker, I'd like to see pictures of how you
braced the wood. I've been trying to figure out the same project for
awhile.
The only solution I see is to rivet metal braces to the hull to support
the
wood. I'm not crazy about the idea, since pop rivets have a hole in them
after they're applied.


You can always use stainless steel bolts and double nut them. Worked
for me......

Dave


I don't want fat screw heads messing with that part of the hull. They cause
more spray.