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  #12   Report Post  
JAXAshby
 
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save yourself the hour's labor and send me the 30 bucks. just as effective,
and less effort.



  #14   Report Post  
JAXAshby
 
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From: Harry Krause

Tom...I thought you knew...JaxAss uses aluminum foil to put together his
homemade condoms.


SaranWrap. The thin stuff for more feeling.









  #15   Report Post  
BenC
 
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(Art Coe) wrote in message . com...
Appreciate some thoughts on putting my outboard motor (30 hp
Mariner)back into service. I knew it would be out of operation for
awhile so I flushed it out good, ran the carb dry, changed the lower
unit oil, squirted some two stroke oil into the cylinders via the
spark plug holes and pulled the starter cord a couple of times.

Time slipped on by and the press of other things kept me away from my
boat. Now, when I'm ready to start using it again, I realize that 10
years have passed since I "serviced" it. I'm not sure how to proceed.
Do I have a piece of junk, suitable only as an anchor or scrap
aluminum? Should I simply get some fresh gas, hook up the battery and
try to fire it up? Should I tear it down and replace gaskets, pump
impeller, etc. before trying to fire it up?

Any advice appreciated.


hello art, servicing your waterpump is a good idea. after a 10 year
dormant period your impellor will be compromised. its also important
to remove the gearbox to replenish the driveshaft lubrictaion. this is
an often overlooked area because waterpumps work very well for
extended periods. not to rain on anyones parade but the wd40 idea is a
bad one, im glad it worked but i can honestly see it doing more harm
then good to an internal combustion engine.
i would also remove the carb and replace the gaskets. completely look
at the entire fuel system, the lines, the fuel pump and the fuel line
fitting orings.
inspect the inside of the fuel tank for any kind of water or debris.
doing nothing will see you rowing home, doing some of the above
mentioned basics will see your boating go much smoother. if you have
any further questions feel free to use my email to avoid a lot of the
sillyness this forum encounters. good luck


  #16   Report Post  
JAXAshby
 
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i would also remove the carb and replace the gaskets.

sure, and renew your library card, which is a lot more useful replacing the
replacing the gaskets.

dood, have you ANY idea what gaskets look like, let alone what causes them to
fail? If so, just why in hell did you post the following?

From: (BenC)
Date: 10/22/2004 9:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

(Art Coe) wrote in message
.com...
Appreciate some thoughts on putting my outboard motor (30 hp
Mariner)back into service. I knew it would be out of operation for
awhile so I flushed it out good, ran the carb dry, changed the lower
unit oil, squirted some two stroke oil into the cylinders via the
spark plug holes and pulled the starter cord a couple of times.

Time slipped on by and the press of other things kept me away from my
boat. Now, when I'm ready to start using it again, I realize that 10
years have passed since I "serviced" it. I'm not sure how to proceed.
Do I have a piece of junk, suitable only as an anchor or scrap
aluminum? Should I simply get some fresh gas, hook up the battery and
try to fire it up? Should I tear it down and replace gaskets, pump
impeller, etc. before trying to fire it up?

Any advice appreciated.


hello art, servicing your waterpump is a good idea. after a 10 year
dormant period your impellor will be compromised. its also important
to remove the gearbox to replenish the driveshaft lubrictaion. this is
an often overlooked area because waterpumps work very well for
extended periods. not to rain on anyones parade but the wd40 idea is a
bad one, im glad it worked but i can honestly see it doing more harm
then good to an internal combustion engine.
i would also remove the carb and replace the gaskets. completely look
at the entire fuel system, the lines, the fuel pump and the fuel line
fitting orings.
inspect the inside of the fuel tank for any kind of water or debris.
doing nothing will see you rowing home, doing some of the above
mentioned basics will see your boating go much smoother. if you have
any further questions feel free to use my email to avoid a lot of the
sillyness this forum encounters. good luck








  #17   Report Post  
BenC
 
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well that didnt take long did it jerx? having done this for as long as
i have i know exactly what the gaskets in a mariner of that vintage
are made of. i dont think you do or have even a clue what fuel, heat
time and corrosion do to them. maybe you need to run along and read a
little to get up to speed.
i have a better suggestion, post your vitriolic suggestions in the
myriad of OT threads. i dont read them.

ultimately art mine are just suggestions. i would suggest a visit to
your local dealer for your own peace of mind and to prevent rowing
home.



(JAXAshby) wrote in message ...
i would also remove the carb and replace the gaskets.


sure, and renew your library card, which is a lot more useful replacing the
replacing the gaskets.

dood, have you ANY idea what gaskets look like, let alone what causes them to
fail? If so, just why in hell did you post the following?

From:
(BenC)
Date: 10/22/2004 9:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

(Art Coe) wrote in message
.com...
Appreciate some thoughts on putting my outboard motor (30 hp
Mariner)back into service. I knew it would be out of operation for
awhile so I flushed it out good, ran the carb dry, changed the lower
unit oil, squirted some two stroke oil into the cylinders via the
spark plug holes and pulled the starter cord a couple of times.

Time slipped on by and the press of other things kept me away from my
boat. Now, when I'm ready to start using it again, I realize that 10
years have passed since I "serviced" it. I'm not sure how to proceed.
Do I have a piece of junk, suitable only as an anchor or scrap
aluminum? Should I simply get some fresh gas, hook up the battery and
try to fire it up? Should I tear it down and replace gaskets, pump
impeller, etc. before trying to fire it up?

Any advice appreciated.


hello art, servicing your waterpump is a good idea. after a 10 year
dormant period your impellor will be compromised. its also important
to remove the gearbox to replenish the driveshaft lubrictaion. this is
an often overlooked area because waterpumps work very well for
extended periods. not to rain on anyones parade but the wd40 idea is a
bad one, im glad it worked but i can honestly see it doing more harm
then good to an internal combustion engine.
i would also remove the carb and replace the gaskets. completely look
at the entire fuel system, the lines, the fuel pump and the fuel line
fitting orings.
inspect the inside of the fuel tank for any kind of water or debris.
doing nothing will see you rowing home, doing some of the above
mentioned basics will see your boating go much smoother. if you have
any further questions feel free to use my email to avoid a lot of the
sillyness this forum encounters. good luck






  #18   Report Post  
Sunny
 
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Paul Dougherty wrote:
Why? Because a $30.00 part and 1 hour of my time beats a overheated
motor and being stuck on the water.
That is why.


If the options were that cut'n'dried, I'd replace the impeller too...
but why stop there? Ignition failure due to rotted insulation is at
least as likely to leave one stranded.

Last time I replaced an impeller ('72 Johnson 85hp), it took most of a
day - driveshaft spline was frozen in the crank, and I had to make a
wooden jig to push the lower unit off with hydraulic jacks.

I don't take old machinery apart unless it needs taken apart - OTOH I
don't trust it until it's earned my trust.

Sunny

Paul Dougherty

Sunny wrote in message m...

Paul Dougherty wrote:


I agree with everyone else. But I would replace the impeller.


Why?

It's not a trivial job, and IME there's no evidence impellers are harmed
by dry storage.

My son's motor is 40 years old, and still has the original impeller -
despite sitting idle for 15+ years before being returned to service
three years ago.


Paul

(Art Coe) wrote in message . com...


Appreciate some thoughts on putting my outboard motor (30 hp
Mariner)back into service. I knew it would be out of operation for
awhile so I flushed it out good, ran the carb dry, changed the lower
unit oil, squirted some two stroke oil into the cylinders via the
spark plug holes and pulled the starter cord a couple of times.

Time slipped on by and the press of other things kept me away from my
boat. Now, when I'm ready to start using it again, I realize that 10
years have passed since I "serviced" it. I'm not sure how to proceed.
Do I have a piece of junk, suitable only as an anchor or scrap
aluminum? Should I simply get some fresh gas, hook up the battery and
try to fire it up? Should I tear it down and replace gaskets, pump
impeller, etc. before trying to fire it up?

Any advice appreciated.

  #19   Report Post  
Sunny
 
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Clams Canino wrote:

Why?

Because IF the impeller is dryrotted and breaks up, the shrapnel may well
wind up going up the pipe and into the cooling system - where is is bound
(by Murpheys Law) to find the most critical water passage and block it.

Changing the impeller is VERY trivial compared to all the alternatives.

Your sons motor is lucky is all.


Luck, or fresh water?

I've been running ancient outboards for 20 years in fresh water, and
storing them outside in Canadian winters, and only ever replaced one
impeller. I'm not sure what caused it to fail, because it looked great
except for one vane broken off clean near the hub - and still intact
inside the housing.

Sunny

(I need someone to distract Murphy for me or all my impellers will fail
next weekend :-)

-W


"Sunny" wrote in message news:kz%dd.31253


Why?

It's not a trivial job, and IME there's no evidence impellers are harmed
by dry storage.

My son's motor is 40 years old, and still has the original impeller -
despite sitting idle for 15+ years before being returned to service
three years ago.


Paul




  #20   Report Post  
Clams Canino
 
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"Sunny" wrote in message news:YTifd.5808

If the options were that cut'n'dried, I'd replace the impeller too...
but why stop there? Ignition failure due to rotted insulation is at
least as likely to leave one stranded.


Stop trying to semantic your way out of this, you are a poor debator. An
ignition stranding can be easily fixed, a powerhead failure is a
"catastrophic failure" type stranding.

Just because you had good luck with 100 inpellers and the one you had to
change was a bitch and 1/2, does not make you right - it makes you biased.
Your position is wrong, but it's yours based on personal experience. The
*collective* experience dictates the right answer.

-W


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