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Oil Question
WaIIy wrote:
I have Mercruiser 5.7's 1989 and boat on Lake Erie near Cleveland. My mechanic recommends straight 30wt oil and that's been fine, today he said a new bulletin came out from Mercury and it was something like 30 wt up to 60 degrees F and 40 wt for over 60 degrees F. Now my mechanic says to use straight 40 weight. What do you think? Use the 40, if that's the recommendation. The multigrade oils only thicken up when they get really hot (various additives, plastics etc expand & change as the temp rises, but the base oil is the lower claim, so a 20-40 is actually 20 grade oil with additives to help when it gets hot), as in a properly thermostatted car engine. The trouble or one of the troubles:-) with raw water cooled engines is they can't run the normal high (near boiling temp) thermostats, so the engine & therefore oil might not get really hot & if it were multigrade it "might" not thicken enough to give the engine proper protection when worked hard. Other end of the scale; some boat engines, skiing or heavy cruisers can really put the engine to work & although the raw water low temp thermo cools the block, still & all the oil can get hot, again 40 is better than 30 in that case too. K |
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 05:40:04 GMT, WaIIy
wrote: I have Mercruiser 5.7's 1989 and boat on Lake Erie near Cleveland. My mechanic recommends straight 30wt oil and that's been fine, today he said a new bulletin came out from Mercury and it was something like 30 wt up to 60 degrees F and 40 wt for over 60 degrees F. Now my mechanic says to use straight 40 weight. What do you think? Karen has pretty much hit it. Straight 40 weight if that's what the manufacturer recommends. However, you might want to discuss with him the age of the motor and if it's lasted this long on the 30/40 combination, then why not stick with it? Later, Tom ----------- "Angling may be said to be so like the mathematics that it can never be fully learnt..." Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653 |
mercruiser does not build engines, it assembles marine systems. ask the
manufacturer of the engine for its advice, and then go with the 20w-40 it recommends. Then replace your mechanic, or be prepared to spend some money with him I have Mercruiser 5.7's 1989 and boat on Lake Erie near Cleveland. My mechanic recommends straight 30wt oil and that's been fine, today he said a new bulletin came out from Mercury and it was something like 30 wt up to 60 degrees F and 40 wt for over 60 degrees F. Now my mechanic says to use straight 40 weight. What do you think? |
I'm using Amsoil 15-40 marine diesel in my 1987 5.7 liter and am happy
with it so far. Ask me whether I'm still happy in 2500 hours. Capt. Jeff |
|
WaIIy wrote:
I have Mercruiser 5.7's 1989 and boat on Lake Erie near Cleveland. My mechanic recommends straight 30wt oil and that's been fine, today he said a new bulletin came out from Mercury and it was something like 30 wt up to 60 degrees F and 40 wt for over 60 degrees F. Now my mechanic says to use straight 40 weight. What do you think? Mercury recommends 25W-40 oil for Mercruiser engines, back in '89 they rcommended straight 30 weight. In '89 Mercury sold 30 weight and warned against multi-viscosity oils, now they recommend and sell it. |
K. Smith wrote:
Use the 40, if that's the recommendation. The multigrade oils only thicken up when they get really hot (various additives, plastics etc expand & change as the temp rises, but the base oil is the lower claim, so a 20-40 is actually 20 grade oil with additives to help when it gets hot), as in a properly thermostatted car engine. The trouble or one of the troubles:-) with raw water cooled engines is they can't run the normal high (near boiling temp) thermostats, so the engine & therefore oil might not get really hot & if it were multigrade it "might" not thicken enough to give the engine proper protection when worked hard. Other end of the scale; some boat engines, skiing or heavy cruisers can really put the engine to work & although the raw water low temp thermo cools the block, still & all the oil can get hot, again 40 is better than 30 in that case too. K I am sorry, but whoever "penned" the above obviously knows nothing about lubricating oils & films. K. Smith...: please post back and tell us this was some kind of joke or flame... Multigrade oils do not "thicken up" when they get hot, hotter, or really hot. You can demonstrate this in your kitchen today with a quart of your favorite 10W-40 and a candy thermometer. As to the OP, straight 40 weight oil would be fine, espescially with the older engines with seasonal use on Lake Erie, but for the high costs involved with the ownership, maintenance, & possible replacement of marine power, I recommend, and follow, that you use a multigrade Mobil 1 product for maximum protection - and Purolator Pure 1 filters. Rob |
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
Karen has pretty much hit it. Straight 40 weight if that's what the manufacturer recommends. Tom Multigrade oils do not "thicken up" when they get hot, hotter, or really hot. Rob |
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 10:03:11 -0400, trainfan1
wrote: Multigrade oils do not "thicken up" when they get hot, hotter, or really hot. You can demonstrate this in your kitchen today with a quart of your favorite 10W-40 and a candy thermometer. This has been a source of endless debates between my friends and i. I think most people understand multi-viscosity oils on some level, it's just the terms are confusing. As long as you get that even though the viscosity rating of a multi-weight oil increases as it gets warmer, both straight and multi-viscosity oils are actually "thinner" when hot you've got it. |
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 11:15:38 -0400, Slambram
wrote: On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 10:03:11 -0400, trainfan1 wrote: Multigrade oils do not "thicken up" when they get hot, hotter, or really hot. You can demonstrate this in your kitchen today with a quart of your favorite 10W-40 and a candy thermometer. This has been a source of endless debates between my friends and i. I think most people understand multi-viscosity oils on some level, it's just the terms are confusing. As long as you get that even though the viscosity rating of a multi-weight oil increases as it gets warmer, both straight and multi-viscosity oils are actually "thinner" when hot you've got it. There you go. Later, Tom |
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 10:04:00 -0400, trainfan1
wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: Karen has pretty much hit it. Straight 40 weight if that's what the manufacturer recommends. Tom Multigrade oils do not "thicken up" when they get hot, hotter, or really hot. I understand that. I agreed with Karen on her statement about the manufacturer's recommendations. I thought that was pretty evident. Take care. Tom "The beatings will stop when morale improves." E. Teach, 1717 |
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 07:42:25 -0500, Tamaroak
wrote: I'm using Amsoil 15-40 marine diesel in my 1987 5.7 liter and am happy with it so far. Ask me whether I'm still happy in 2500 hours. Now that's an interesting approach. Why do you run that? Later, Tom ----------- "Angling may be said to be so like the mathematics that it can never be fully learnt..." Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653 |
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 09:20:34 -0400, John Wentworth
wrote: WaIIy wrote: I have Mercruiser 5.7's 1989 and boat on Lake Erie near Cleveland. My mechanic recommends straight 30wt oil and that's been fine, today he said a new bulletin came out from Mercury and it was something like 30 wt up to 60 degrees F and 40 wt for over 60 degrees F. Now my mechanic says to use straight 40 weight. What do you think? Mercury recommends 25W-40 oil for Mercruiser engines, back in '89 they rcommended straight 30 weight. In '89 Mercury sold 30 weight and warned against multi-viscosity oils, now they recommend and sell it. Which brings up another guestion. On two cycle engines, the TC-W3 standard (I hope I have that right) is the "standard" to which all engine are supposed to be built, right? Then why do the various manufacturers all consider non-factory oil a bad thing? Later, Tom ----------- "Angling may be said to be so like the mathematics that it can never be fully learnt..." Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653 |
It's supposed to hold up better than conventional oil. Sometimes, like
last year when I went to Alaska via the Inside Passage, changing oil every 100 hours isn't convenient. I want oil to be able to go a little farther than that if i have to and the extra cost isn't significant, especially after we spent $2500 for fuel. Capt. Jeff |
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:34:41 -0500, Tamaroak
wrote: It's supposed to hold up better than conventional oil. Sometimes, like last year when I went to Alaska via the Inside Passage, changing oil every 100 hours isn't convenient. I want oil to be able to go a little farther than that if i have to and the extra cost isn't significant, especially after we spent $2500 for fuel. Interesting. Thanks. Later, Tom |
OMG... Here we go again.
-Dan "WaIIy" wrote in message ... I have Mercruiser 5.7's 1989 and boat on Lake Erie near Cleveland. My mechanic recommends straight 30wt oil and that's been fine, today he said a new bulletin came out from Mercury and it was something like 30 wt up to 60 degrees F and 40 wt for over 60 degrees F. Now my mechanic says to use straight 40 weight. What do you think? |
"John Wentworth" wrote in message ... Mercury recommends 25W-40 oil for Mercruiser engines, back in '89 they rcommended straight 30 weight. In '89 Mercury sold 30 weight and warned against multi-viscosity oils, now they recommend and sell it. That's a good BINGO. -Dano |
John Wentworth wrote in message ...
WaIIy wrote: Mercury recommends 25W-40 oil for Mercruiser engines, back in '89 they rcommended straight 30 weight. In '89 Mercury sold 30 weight and warned against multi-viscosity oils, now they recommend and sell it. Interesting, but I am doubtful. I installed 2 new mercruiser 5.7 liter I/Os in year 2000. The owners manual specified their own 25w-40 with other multivis as alternatives. It specifically recommended against synthetic oils. That seemed weird, so I called my friend who has a 1985 mercruiser 5.7 liter I/O. His owners manual was identical in all respects about oil except it did not say anything about synthetic oil. Somewhere between 1985 and 2000 Mercury saw fit to add one sentence to the manual to recommend against synthetics. Neither manual listed straight weight as a first or second option. |
"K. Smith" wrote in message ... The multigrade oils only thicken up when they get really hot (various additives, plastics etc expand & change as the temp rises, but the base oil is the lower claim, so a 20-40 is actually 20 grade oil with additives to help when it gets hot), as in a properly thermostatted car engine. K: Either you have just enough information to be dangerous or you badly mis-stated what you were trying to say. All oil, single or multigerade thin as they heat up. Multigrade oils just don't thin out as fast. If by "plastics" you meant "polymers" then part of what you said is correct. A multigrade starts with a base that is comparable to the lower weight number and adds polymers that react with heat. This reaction slows down the thinning action, it does NOT reverse it. What most people do not realize is that the two numbers are given from entirely different tables. There is a range of viscosities that is covered under the "W" range and another range of viscosity for non-W. An oil rated at 75W has about the same viscosity as an oil rated at 10. Another important aspect of the rating is the fact that SAE motor oil is rated at 100 degrees C. When you need the viscosity this is the temperature that you oil is likely to be at. A multigrade oil allows you to have a higher viscosity oil at 100 degrees C that you can still manage to pump out of the oil pan when the temperature drops well below freezing. It comes at a price, however. The polymers tend to be fragile, and can be damaged by excessive heat or contamination. A 20W-40 is a much more robust oil than a 5W-40 because it started with a heavier oil and doesn't need as much treatment to stretch it out. Putting additives in a multigrade oil is also taking a risk for the simple matter that it may be impossible to tell how the additive might react with the various polymers in the oil. I doubt that the additve manufactures fully test against every possible brand and weight of oil, and even if they did I doubt even more that they would let you know if they discovered a few brands that reacted badly with their additive. If you live in Florida then you really don't need to worry about multigrade oils. Run 40 weight and you are fine. If you live in Bismark North Dakota in the winter time a multigrade oil is exactly what you need. Rod McInnis |
rmcinnis wrote:
"K. Smith" wrote in message ... The multigrade oils only thicken up when they get really hot (various additives, plastics etc expand & change as the temp rises, but the base oil is the lower claim, so a 20-40 is actually 20 grade oil with additives to help when it gets hot), as in a properly thermostatted car engine. K: Either you have just enough information to be dangerous or you badly mis-stated what you were trying to say. Yes & I apologise, sorry I was trying to show that a low temps multi grade oils stayat their lower "grade", good thing you blokes are keeping an eye on me:-) All oil, single or multigerade thin as they heat up. Multigrade oils just don't thin out as fast. Yes If by "plastics" you meant "polymers" then part of what you said is correct. A multigrade starts with a base that is comparable to the lower weight number and adds polymers that react with heat. This reaction slows down the thinning action, it does NOT reverse it. Yes again What most people do not realize is that the two numbers are given from entirely different tables. There is a range of viscosities that is covered under the "W" range and another range of viscosity for non-W. An oil rated at 75W has about the same viscosity as an oil rated at 10. Another important aspect of the rating is the fact that SAE motor oil is rated at 100 degrees C. When you need the viscosity this is the temperature that you oil is likely to be at. Yes & there is the rub with raw water cooled boat motors. A multigrade oil allows you to have a higher viscosity oil at 100 degrees C that you can still manage to pump out of the oil pan when the temperature drops well below freezing. It comes at a price, however. The polymers tend to be fragile, and can be damaged by excessive heat or contamination. A 20W-40 is a much more robust oil than a 5W-40 because it started with a heavier oil and doesn't need as much treatment to stretch it out. Putting additives in a multigrade oil is also taking a risk for the simple matter that it may be impossible to tell how the additive might react with the various polymers in the oil. I doubt that the additve manufactures fully test against every possible brand and weight of oil, and even if they did I doubt even more that they would let you know if they discovered a few brands that reacted badly with their additive. If you live in Florida then you really don't need to worry about multigrade oils. Run 40 weight and you are fine. If you live in Bismark North Dakota in the winter time a multigrade oil is exactly what you need. Rod McInnis Thanks Rod K |
If you live in Florida then you really don't need to worry about multigrade
oils. Run 40 weight and you are fine. If you live in Bismark North Dakota in the winter time a multigrade oil is exactly what you need. Rod, engine manufacturers recommend multi-grade oils for Florida as well. engines still need pressure oil upon startup, even at 22C Rod McInnis |
rmcinnis wrote:
Another important aspect of the rating is the fact that SAE motor oil is rated at 100 degrees C. When you need the viscosity this is the temperature that you oil is likely to be at. "K. Smith" wrote in message Yes & there is the rub with raw water cooled boat motors. One thing to keep in mind is that inboard and stern drive engines run with hotter oil temperatures than their automotive cousins, even though their coolant temperatures are around 140-165 vs. 180-210. An automotive engine normally operates at a much lower power output and rpm (2500 rpm @ 70mph) and air flow is constantly flowing over and around the motor while running down the road. That air from the car's volocity and/or the radiator fan absorbs the operating heat emitted from the engine and the oil pan. In a boat, an engine is located in a cramped area and also is sometimes insulated to reduce sound and heat transfer to the other areas of the boat. There is no 70mph air flow helping to cool the motor or the oil pan. A marine engine is cruising at a much higher rpm and power output for hours at a time. The internal parts of the engine, pistons, rods, bearings, etc. run at a much higher temperature than the 140 degree cooling water, and the oil has to asborb that extra heat. The combination of limited air flow and higher power output in a confined space make the oil in a marine engine run quite a bit hotter than in cars. You can test this out by using an infrared temp gun on your boat and your car if they use similar engines. It is especially true if you run the car and the boat at the same speeds for several hours. In a previous post, Karen was correct in a way. When a multi grade oil gets severely overheated, the oil can thicken up depending on its additive components. Today's mulit grade oils are much more heat tolerant than the ones from years ago. Bill Grannis service manager |
When a multi grade oil gets
severely overheated, the oil can thicken up depending on its additive components. that is also true of single weight oils, but you knew that didn't you (you being a service manager and all)? petro lub oils usually get pretty damned gooey at about 300F, hence one of the advantages of syn oils, which make it usually to about 500F. petro oil can cause exhaust valve sticking in high performance engine of long ago designed to run on leaded fuel (which lubed the valve stems and seats) that now try to run unleaded. |
Bob wrote:
John Wentworth wrote in message ... WaIIy wrote: Mercury recommends 25W-40 oil for Mercruiser engines, back in '89 they rcommended straight 30 weight. In '89 Mercury sold 30 weight and warned against multi-viscosity oils, now they recommend and sell it. Interesting, but I am doubtful. I installed 2 new mercruiser 5.7 liter I/Os in year 2000. The owners manual specified their own 25w-40 with other multivis as alternatives. It specifically recommended against synthetic oils. That seemed weird, so I called my friend who has a 1985 mercruiser 5.7 liter I/O. His owners manual was identical in all respects about oil except it did not say anything about synthetic oil. Somewhere between 1985 and 2000 Mercury saw fit to add one sentence to the manual to recommend against synthetics. Neither manual listed straight weight as a first or second option. In a Mercury Marine service manual I have that covers the early '80's the recommendation is: Lowest temp is 90°= SAE 40 "SE" Lowest temp is 32°= SAE 30 "SE" Lowest temp is 0°= SAE 20W "SE" For much of the United States that equals SAE 30, oil to be changed every 100 hours or 60 days, whichever comes first. Also: " We recommend Mercury Marine 4-Cycle Marine Motor Oil Formula 4R. If not available, use any good grade automotive oil of correct viscosity which has an API classification of "SE". One thing for sure, the topic "Oil for my boat" will produce a deluge of responses. Can a "dead reckoning" topic be far away? |
On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 09:13:28 -0400, John Wentworth
wrote: ~~ snippage ~~ One thing for sure, the topic "Oil for my boat" will produce a deluge of responses. Can a "dead reckoning" topic be far away? Kewl!!!! All the best, Tom -------------- "What the hell's the deal with this newsgroup... is there a computer terminal in the day room of some looney bin somewhere?" Bilgeman - circa 2004 |
On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 16:12:52 GMT, WaIIy
wrote: OK, Bill. Thanks for the info. Now, what should I put in my 1997, 5.7L Mercruiser I/O, given that my boating is done in the Chesapeake Bay. John H That was also my question. What oil for 1989 5.7 in Cleveland? ======================================== When I was running my 5.7 on Long Island Sound I would use 30 weight for the oil change at winter lay up but for my mid-summer oil change I would use 40 wt. Here in Florida I'm running 40 wt year round based on the advice of my mechanic. Winter time water temps here are comparable to summer temps in the north east. In the summer the water is at 85 to 90 and engine cooling can be a serious issue. |
"Bob" wrote in message m... Interesting, but I am doubtful. I installed 2 new mercruiser 5.7 liter I/Os in year 2000. The owners manual specified their own 25w-40 with other multivis as alternatives. It specifically recommended against synthetic oils. That seemed weird, so I called my friend who has a 1985 mercruiser 5.7 liter I/O. His owners manual was identical in all respects about oil except it did not say anything about synthetic oil. Somewhere between 1985 and 2000 Mercury saw fit to add one sentence to the manual to recommend against synthetics. Neither manual listed straight weight as a first or second option. From my 1987 Mercruiser Blue Water Inboards Operation and Maintenance Manual (260hp) "IMPORTANT: The use of multi-viscosity oils specifically is not recommended for use in MerCruiser Engines." Then follows a chart that recommends SAE 20, 30 or 40 depending on temperature. There is no mention of synthetics in this manual.-Dano |
I just today put Amsoil 15-40 marine diesel in that 1987 260 hp 5.7
Mercruiser as I have been doing for a couple years now. I'll know in 2500 hours whether it was a good move or not! Capt. Jeff |
guys, ask the manufacturer of the engine for the kriste's sakes, and every last
one of them flatly states multi-grade for most all but extremely unusual, virtually unheard of conditions for a recreational engine. btw, Mercruiser isn't a manufacturer of engines. but play silly pattycake with each other for as long as you wish. From: WaIIy Date: 10/7/2004 12:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time Message-id: On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 09:12:24 -0400, JohnH wrote: On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 11:59:35 GMT, "Billgran" wrote: rmcinnis wrote: Another important aspect of the rating is the fact that SAE motor oil is rated at 100 degrees C. When you need the viscosity this is the temperature that you oil is likely to be at. "K. Smith" wrote in message Yes & there is the rub with raw water cooled boat motors. One thing to keep in mind is that inboard and stern drive engines run with hotter oil temperatures than their automotive cousins, even though their coolant temperatures are around 140-165 vs. 180-210. An automotive engine normally operates at a much lower power output and rpm (2500 rpm @ 70mph) and air flow is constantly flowing over and around the motor while running down the road. That air from the car's volocity and/or the radiator fan absorbs the operating heat emitted from the engine and the oil pan. In a boat, an engine is located in a cramped area and also is sometimes insulated to reduce sound and heat transfer to the other areas of the boat. There is no 70mph air flow helping to cool the motor or the oil pan. A marine engine is cruising at a much higher rpm and power output for hours at a time. The internal parts of the engine, pistons, rods, bearings, etc. run at a much higher temperature than the 140 degree cooling water, and the oil has to asborb that extra heat. The combination of limited air flow and higher power output in a confined space make the oil in a marine engine run quite a bit hotter than in cars. You can test this out by using an infrared temp gun on your boat and your car if they use similar engines. It is especially true if you run the car and the boat at the same speeds for several hours. In a previous post, Karen was correct in a way. When a multi grade oil gets severely overheated, the oil can thicken up depending on its additive components. Today's mulit grade oils are much more heat tolerant than the ones from years ago. Bill Grannis service manager OK, Bill. Thanks for the info. Now, what should I put in my 1997, 5.7L Mercruiser I/O, given that my boating is done in the Chesapeake Bay. John H That was also my question. What oil for 1989 5.7 in Cleveland? |
Also, must the oil be Mercruiser brand? Is there a basic difference between
'marine' and other oils? John H yer kidding, right? kriste on a crutch! no wonder powerboaters stop running their boats by mid-July. Not only are they broke from fill the fuel tank, but their engines are worn to shreds by listening to each other. |
trainfan1 wrote:
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: Karen has pretty much hit it. Straight 40 weight if that's what the manufacturer recommends. Tom Multigrade oils do not "thicken up" when they get hot, hotter, or really hot. Rob I agree Rob it was a bad turn of phrase & I apologise.... again:-) The main thing is that in multi grade oils the actual oil (before additives etc) is the lower of the grades, so it will (deliberately) stay thinner at lower temps. As for the rest..... hmmm the way the price of oil is going it won't matter much soon. Thanks for the whack behind the ear; I deserved it:-) I just got overly excited about an on topic post:-) K |
On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 18:10:53 +1000, "K. Smith"
wrote: trainfan1 wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: Karen has pretty much hit it. Straight 40 weight if that's what the manufacturer recommends. Tom Multigrade oils do not "thicken up" when they get hot, hotter, or really hot. Rob I agree Rob it was a bad turn of phrase & I apologise.... again:-) The main thing is that in multi grade oils the actual oil (before additives etc) is the lower of the grades, so it will (deliberately) stay thinner at lower temps. As for the rest..... hmmm the way the price of oil is going it won't matter much soon. Thanks for the whack behind the ear; I deserved it:-) I just got overly excited about an on topic post:-) I feel your pain. :) Take care. Tom "The beatings will stop when morale improves." E. Teach, 1717 |
hey, whoring, it was you who asked to really stupid question, not hoary.
next, you are going to ask if the gas used to cook pancakes at the local IHOP is different from the gas used to cook pancakes at the house down the street. (you, of course, being from a lesser class have a electric stove to cook pancakes to with your Tang.) Also, must the oil be Mercruiser brand? Is there a basic difference between 'marine' and other oils? John H yer kidding, right? kriste on a crutch! no wonder powerboaters stop running their boats by mid-July. Not only are they broke from fill the fuel tank, but their engines are worn to shreds by listening to each other. STFU jax, and go argue with Harry. John H On the 'PocoLoco' out of Deale, MD, on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay! There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who do binary and those who don't! |
" inboard and stern drive engines run with hotter oil temperatures than their automotive cousins, even though their coolant temperatures are around 140-165 vs. 180-210. JAXAshby" wrote in message .. .. you learned this where? wanna tell us just where *you* buy your 140* thermostats for auto engines (I haven't seen one in 40 years, but then I can't imagine anyone would want one in 40 years)? If you would re-read the post, you might realize that the comparison was between marine engines which run about 140-165 degrees and automotive engines which run 180 degrees and above. |
"JAXAshby" wrote in message ... .. that is also true of single weight oils, but you knew that didn't you (you being a service manager and all)? The discussion that you interupted concerns mult-grade oils. Bill Grannis service manager |
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 15:54:56 -0400, JohnH wrote: Also, must the oil be Mercruiser brand? Is there a basic difference between 'marine' and other oils? "Marine Oil is boutique oil and can have an additive package tailored to the marine environment and usage characteristics of the engine. Given the narrow temperature range that most people's boat engine will see, any *quality* oil will suffice, if the proper weight is employed and the oil and filter are changed frequently. -- Though not about stern drives or inboard engines, the latest issue of Trailer Boats Magazine (October) has an article with tests of various 4-stroke outboard oils which are mainly mult-grade oils and compares them to popular automotive oils. Bill Grannis service manager |
"WaIIy" wrote in
My thanks to everyone for their thoughts and also thanks for not talking about Edwards or Bush oil. Now that I'm thoroughly confused, I'll sift through your suggestions a few more times. Wally - don't be confused, just use the recommended oil for the weather you generally use the boat in and don't put another thought into it! Frankly, either 30 wt. or 40 wt or a Merc-recommended multi weight, for anything between 50 and 100 degrees F - I really dont' think it matters significantly! The lake or ocean water's essentially the same, and the thermostat you use is essentially the same. Just latch on to a bona-fide authoritative (e.g. Merc) recommendation, and go with it. By far, the most important "oil" thing to do is change the oil regularly and frequently. All the other advantages and disadvantages of mulit vs straight weight, dino vs. synthetic are so insignificant compared to that. Yes, they *might* exist, but if so, are very, very (very, very, very) small compared to just using fresh oil and filters and being good about changing the oil. You use any of the recommended oil, change it frequently, you can't do anything better, in a practical sense. Just mho of course, but I'm right! Camilo |
Marine Oil is boutique oil and ---------------------------- can
----------------------------------- have an additive package tailored to the marine environment why on Earth would anyone believe that? The world -------------------------------- can ----------------------- turn in figures eights, but does it? |
I read the post correctly the first time, and it states (tho *you* may be too
stupid to realize it states such) that marine engines have 140* thermostats installed. only if they have no heat exchangers, dood. (look it up) From: "Billgran" Date: 10/8/2004 8:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time Message-id: " inboard and stern drive engines run with hotter oil temperatures than their automotive cousins, even though their coolant temperatures are around 140-165 vs. 180-210. JAXAshby" wrote in message .. . you learned this where? wanna tell us just where *you* buy your 140* thermostats for auto engines (I haven't seen one in 40 years, but then I can't imagine anyone would want one in 40 years)? If you would re-read the post, you might realize that the comparison was between marine engines which run about 140-165 degrees and automotive engines which run 180 degrees and above. |
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