Mulitgrade Oil
 

As the season draws to a close I am thinking about fluid changes in my new
to me boat. I have 1987 Mercruiser 260s and the manual recommends straight
30W oil. Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The manual says that's ok if
straight weight is not available but it is not recommended. Can anyone shed
any light on this for me? Thanks.-DanO

You do not have the huge temperature differentials that cars have. Most of
the time you are in the 40-75 degree ambient temperature range.
Bill

"Dan Olstad" wrote in message
ink.net...
As the season draws to a close I am thinking about fluid changes in my new
to me boat. I have 1987 Mercruiser 260s and the manual recommends
straight
30W oil. Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The manual says that's ok if
straight weight is not available but it is not recommended. Can anyone
shed
any light on this for me? Thanks.-DanO

"Dan Olstad" wrote
the manual recommends straight 30W oil.
Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The
manual says that's ok if straight weight is
not available but it is not recommended. Can anyone shed any light on this
for me?

Disclaimer: This is free advice and you get what you pay for.

My understanding is that the reason single grade oils are recommended for
boats is to reduce internal corrosion in your engine. Because a single grade
oil is thicker at lower temperatures than an equivalent multigrade oil, it
sticks to the bits and pieces inside your engine better after you shut it
down and things in there cool off.

Now, about those Ws. Your manual probably recommends an SAE30 and those
multigrades you're looking at are probably 20w40 and 20w50s, not
number-numberWs. The W stands for winter and what it's all about is the
temperature at which the viscosity rating applies. If there's no W, the
viscosity rating is measured at a high temperature, probably something like
212 degrees Fahrenheit. If there's a W attached, the rating is measured at a
cold temperature, like maybe zero degrees Fahrenheit. A 20W oil has 20
somethings (what that number actually means is kind of mysterious, at least
to me, so I like to just think of it as a relative thing) at zero degrees
and would be less viscous, ie lower number, at 212 degrees. An SAE20 (with
no W) oil would be more viscous, ie higher number, at zero degrees than a
20W. At any rate what 20w50 means in oil lingo is that at zero degrees
Fahrenheit it has the characteristics of a 20W oil and at 212 degrees
Fahrenheit it acts like an SAE50. They make all that happen by adding
polymers that wrinkle up or stretch out depending on the temperature, making
multigrade oils thin out less as their temperatures rise and thicken up less
as their temperatures fall than single ones do. This is great for cars,
especially in cold weather, because it gives you a relatively thin oil at
startup, so it circulates nicely around the cold engine, and then it stays
thick enough once the engine warms up to keep things nicely lubricated. And
since car engines are typically used frequently and seldom sit around in a
moist bilge, it's not a terrible problem that the oil drips off of the
innards relatively easily when the engine cools off.

All of the above may be total BS, but I did get it from a reliable source, I
think, but unfortunately that was so long ago that I don't remember who or
how reliable that source might have been.

All of the above may be total BS, but I did get it from a reliable source, I
think, but unfortunately that was so long ago that I don't remember who or
how reliable that source might have been.

I think its BS.
My Mercruiser manual says to use 5-40.

What the hell is that? so 10-40 isn't good enough? Real reason is to
cause F.U.D. to discourage boat owners from doing work themselves.

John C.

bill, knock it off. straight weight oil takes many, many, many seconds longer
to flow to all pressure oil bearings in a just started, ambient temp engine
than does multi-weight oil.

straight weight oils are proper only for engines that are started with proper
care to prelube and brought up to temperature before putting a load on it and
are run for extended periods of time before shutdown.

bill, you don't have a clew what the paragraphs above mean, so just knock it
off and don't post again on oils.

"Calif Bill"
Date: 9/18/2004 10:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: . net

You do not have the huge temperature differentials that cars have. Most of
the time you are in the 40-75 degree ambient temperature range.
Bill

"Dan Olstad" wrote in message
link.net...
As the season draws to a close I am thinking about fluid changes in my new
to me boat. I have 1987 Mercruiser 260s and the manual recommends
straight
30W oil. Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The manual says that's ok if
straight weight is not available but it is not recommended. Can anyone
shed
any light on this for me? Thanks.-DanO

My Mercruiser manual says to use 5-40.

What the hell is that? so 10-40 isn't good enough? Real reason is to
cause F.U.D. to discourage boat owners from doing work themselves.

no, 5w-40 lubes better upon ambient temp engine startup that 10w-40 and much
better than 30w or 40w does.

however, the difference between 5w-40 and 10w-40 isn't all that great. In
past, 5w-40 didn't hold up as well under long service, and so was seldom sold.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
My Mercruiser manual says to use 5-40.

What the hell is that? so 10-40 isn't good enough? Real reason is to
cause F.U.D. to discourage boat owners from doing work themselves.

no, 5w-40 lubes better upon ambient temp engine startup that 10w-40 and
much
better than 30w or 40w does.

however, the difference between 5w-40 and 10w-40 isn't all that great. In
past, 5w-40 didn't hold up as well under long service, and so was seldom
sold.

Thanks all. With all that, I don't see any reason that a 20w-40 or 20w-50
would not be a preferable choice to plain old SAE 20, 30, or 40 which are
all recommended in my 1987 manual.
-Dan O.
Minneapolis

With all that, I don't see any reason that a 20w-40 or 20w-50
would not be a preferable choice to plain old SAE 20, 30, or 40 which are
all recommended in my 1987 manual.

operating weigh above recommendations can harm seals. thus using 20w-40 in
place of 20w doesn't do any good for lubing upon engine startup and can do some
harm when the engine is warm.

some people are under the mistaken impression that multi grade oils "thicken
up" as they warm up. they don't. they just thin out less as they warm up.

Well jaxass, how come cars have successfully run for years with straight
weight? My Ford 351W in the boat calls for straight 30 weight. You again
show you are even dumber than asslicker and that is hard to accomplish.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
bill, knock it off. straight weight oil takes many, many, many seconds
longer
to flow to all pressure oil bearings in a just started, ambient temp
engine
than does multi-weight oil.

straight weight oils are proper only for engines that are started with
proper
care to prelube and brought up to temperature before putting a load on it
and
are run for extended periods of time before shutdown.

bill, you don't have a clew what the paragraphs above mean, so just knock
it
off and don't post again on oils.

"Calif Bill"
Date: 9/18/2004 10:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: . net

You do not have the huge temperature differentials that cars have. Most
of
the time you are in the 40-75 degree ambient temperature range.
Bill

"Dan Olstad" wrote in message
link.net...
As the season draws to a close I am thinking about fluid changes in my
new
to me boat. I have 1987 Mercruiser 260s and the manual recommends
straight
30W oil. Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The manual says that's ok if
straight weight is not available but it is not recommended. Can anyone
shed
any light on this for me? Thanks.-DanO

Around 9/19/2004 10:32 PM, Calif Bill wrote:

Well jaxass, how come cars have successfully run for years with straight
weight? My Ford 351W in the boat calls for straight 30 weight.


As does the Crusader 220 in my dad's Chris...



--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

Here's some info on mulitgrade Oil -- My father in law owned a Lincoln
mercury dealership for over 30 yrs. When I first started working for
him, part time. I watched as 30 new Lincolns came to the car lot via
tractor/trailer and getting unloaded. My father in law, stated. Joe,
drop the oil on each car, and fill with 20/50 oil (this was in the yr 1974)
I asked why ? is not the oil from the ford factory any good ??? he stated
yes the oil in them is good, (first reason) but if you want a quiet
Lincoln, you run 20/50 oil, (the second reason) my father in law, also
stated, from repairing engines, 20/50 in most climates will make the engine
run smoother, longer service, and less repair,other than (extremes like
Alaska) or South America

Now we notice, 30 years later (2004) most oil companies list 20/50 for
racing and extreame usage of a engine. I guess this info would also apply
to inboards

billie, you were told to stay out of any and all discussions re oil until you
bring yourself up to speed, and that will be at least a year of seriously hard
work for you.


Date: 9/20/2004 1:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: et

Well jaxass, how come cars have successfully run for years with straight
weight? My Ford 351W in the boat calls for straight 30 weight. You again
show you are even dumber than asslicker and that is hard to accomplish.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
bill, knock it off. straight weight oil takes many, many, many seconds
longer
to flow to all pressure oil bearings in a just started, ambient temp
engine
than does multi-weight oil.

straight weight oils are proper only for engines that are started with
proper
care to prelube and brought up to temperature before putting a load on it
and
are run for extended periods of time before shutdown.

bill, you don't have a clew what the paragraphs above mean, so just knock
it
off and don't post again on oils.

"Calif Bill"
Date: 9/18/2004 10:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: . net

You do not have the huge temperature differentials that cars have. Most
of
the time you are in the 40-75 degree ambient temperature range.
Bill

"Dan Olstad" wrote in message
link.net...
As the season draws to a close I am thinking about fluid changes in my
new
to me boat. I have 1987 Mercruiser 260s and the manual recommends
straight
30W oil. Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The manual says that's ok if
straight weight is not available but it is not recommended. Can anyone
shed
any light on this for me? Thanks.-DanO

GM has been recommending 5w-30 since the mid 80's, and 10w-30 since the 70's.


Here's some info on mulitgrade Oil -- My father in law owned a Lincoln
mercury dealership for over 30 yrs. When I first started working for
him, part time. I watched as 30 new Lincolns came to the car lot via
tractor/trailer and getting unloaded. My father in law, stated. Joe,
drop the oil on each car, and fill with 20/50 oil (this was in the yr 1974)
I asked why ? is not the oil from the ford factory any good ??? he stated
yes the oil in them is good, (first reason) but if you want a quiet
Lincoln, you run 20/50 oil, (the second reason) my father in law, also
stated, from repairing engines, 20/50 in most climates will make the engine
run smoother, longer service, and less repair,other than (extremes like
Alaska) or South America

Now we notice, 30 years later (2004) most oil companies list 20/50 for
racing and extreame usage of a engine. I guess this info would also apply
to inboards

ben, that is utter bull****.

a 30w oil will keep its viscosity over a much broader temp range then
a multi weight oil.

30w oil viscosity ***changes*** over the entire temp range.

ben, that is utter bull****.

just to clarify jax a 5w-40 oil is 40 at rest/cold therefore will take
more time to pump anywhere being theoretically 25% thicker then a 30w
oil.

5w-40 is ***5w*** at cold temp.

kriste on a crutch, ben, 14 year old boys know this.

bennie, I own a mid-80's Fiero and right on the oil fill cap if embossed the
directions to use 5w-30 oil. That means for 20 years at least the manufacturer
GM has recommended multi-weight oil.

in fact, GM has recommended multi longer than that, since the 1970's

go ahead. tell us it was a GM plot to sell us more cars.

manufacturers dont make recommendations for no reason, follow them and
you will never have any trouble.
if you are having trouble finding a 30w oil any volvo dealer will sell
it as a lot of volvo equipment uses that grade.

JAXAshby wrote:
bennie, I own a mid-80's Fiero and right on the oil fill cap if embossed the
directions to use 5w-30 oil. That means for 20 years at least the manufacturer
GM has recommended multi-weight oil.

in fact, GM has recommended multi longer than that, since the 1970's

go ahead. tell us it was a GM plot to sell us more cars.

Larry doesn't post here anymore.


--
We today have a president of the United States who looks like he is the
son of Howdy Doody or Alfred E. Newman, who isn't smarter than either of
them, who is arrogant about his ignorance, who is reckless and
incompetent, and whose backers are turning the United States into a pariah.

What, me worry?

bennie, knock it off. take your paranoia and head to the mountains with your
wife and kid and 150 sacks of rice.

(BenC)
Date: 9/20/2004 2:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

(JAXAshby) wrote in message
...
With all that, I don't see any reason that a 20w-40 or 20w-50
would not be a preferable choice to plain old SAE 20, 30, or 40 which are
all recommended in my 1987 manual.

operating weigh above recommendations can harm seals. thus using 20w-40 in
place of 20w doesn't do any good for lubing upon engine startup and can do
some
harm when the engine is warm.

some people are under the mistaken impression that multi grade oils
"thicken
up" as they warm up. they don't. they just thin out less as they warm up.

here is an explanation as to why not to use a multigrade oil unless
specified by the manufacturer
hope this helps

"Dan Olstad" wrote in message link.net...
As the season draws to a close I am thinking about fluid changes in my new
to me boat. I have 1987 Mercruiser 260s and the manual recommends straight
30W oil. Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The manual says that's ok if
straight weight is not available but it is not recommended. Can anyone shed
any light on this for me? Thanks.-DanO

I would stick with straight weights unless you plan to operate in cold
weather.

20-40 and 20-50 are 20 weight oils. They have additives in them to
limit how thin get at normal operating temperatures. Consider that 40
weight oil will be pretty thin at 160-170F. But fairly thick at 60F.

20-40 will lubricate like 20 weight oil when its cold - it's thinner
and flows easier at lower temps. But 20 weight would be too thin at
normal operating temps. 20-40 flows like 20 weight at low temps
(because it is 20 weight) but is modified to get no thinner than a 40
weight at normal operating temps.

Drawback in boats: Do you run your boat everyday? I don't - I only
get out every couple of weeks. That thinner 20 weight oil will not
coat the internal parts of your engine as well during periods of
non-use. Thicker straight weights will stick to your moving parts
better and protect against corrosion, etc better.

You do want to exercise care when starting engines with straight
weight oil. Compare to 10-40, a 30 weight will be noticalbly thicker
and you want to make sure it's flowing before putting loads on the
engine. When I start my boat, I idle at about 1000 RPM until the temp
gauges start moving. At 1000 RPM, the initial oil pressure runs about
60psi. When it starts to drop to 50-55, I figure that it's starting
to flow easier and I am ready to idle out of the marina (depending on
which direction I go, I have at least a half mile of no-wake zone from
my slip). I'm running 283s. Those of you with bigger engines may
have different initial idle speeds - so don't assume I am doing
anything wrong because you run your 350 or 454 (or whatever)
differently.

Engines sitting for extended periods of non use are also why I won't
run synthetics. Too slippery - don't coat parts well for extended
periods. Synthetics do a poor job of hold contaminants in suspension.
The contaminants settle out easier leading to the increased
likelyhood of forming sludge.

First, you missed spelled Billy. And you will never get up to speed.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
billie, you were told to stay out of any and all discussions re oil until
you
bring yourself up to speed, and that will be at least a year of seriously
hard
work for you.


Date: 9/20/2004 1:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: et

Well jaxass, how come cars have successfully run for years with straight
weight? My Ford 351W in the boat calls for straight 30 weight. You
again
show you are even dumber than asslicker and that is hard to accomplish.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
bill, knock it off. straight weight oil takes many, many, many seconds
longer
to flow to all pressure oil bearings in a just started, ambient temp
engine
than does multi-weight oil.

straight weight oils are proper only for engines that are started with
proper
care to prelube and brought up to temperature before putting a load on
it
and
are run for extended periods of time before shutdown.

bill, you don't have a clew what the paragraphs above mean, so just
knock
it
off and don't post again on oils.

"Calif Bill"
Date: 9/18/2004 10:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: . net

You do not have the huge temperature differentials that cars have.
Most
of
the time you are in the 40-75 degree ambient temperature range.
Bill

"Dan Olstad" wrote in message
link.net...
As the season draws to a close I am thinking about fluid changes in
my
new
to me boat. I have 1987 Mercruiser 260s and the manual recommends
straight
30W oil. Why not a 20-40W or a 20-50W? The manual says that's ok
if
straight weight is not available but it is not recommended. Can
anyone
shed
any light on this for me? Thanks.-DanO

Subject: Mulitgrade Oil
From: (JAXAshby)

bennie, I own a mid-80's Fiero

OTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!

Capt. Bill

genie, knock it off. kriste on a crutch.

First of
all, 5 weight oil doesn't "lube better" than 40 weight oil.

it most certainly does, during the seconds it takes for pressure oil of a just
started cold (meaning not at operating temp) engine to reach all the bearings
needing pressure oil. 5w oil flows more easier at starting temp than does 40w
(ob vee us frickin' lee). that clatter you hear (well, a qualified mechanic
hears) on a just started engine is the bearings grinding and rubbing and
clashing with no pressue oil present. even a 14 year old can hear the
difference in the sound of a just started engine with heavy oil in it and the
same engine run 30 or 40 seconds.

genei, go stand in the corner.

How does all of this translate to outboards that run 120f thermostats?
If the oil is formulated for 210 degree operating temps (most cars) does it
still work at 120-150?
I notice my merc 4 stroke has pretty low oil pressure 20-30 hours into an oil
change when I run Merc 10-30. If I use an auto brand it acts the same way. It
does better with merc 25-40

Anybody using multi-weight oil *must* be very religious about changing it when
due.

That 5w-50 oil?

The basic oil in that jug is 5w. A group of "viscosity enhancers" allows the
oil to provide the same protection as 50w when the engine heats up.

Caution: The viscosity enhancers will break down after a while and the oil you
think is 5w-50 is then really only 5w.

I use Delo 400, 30 weight, in my engine.
Got about 4000 hours out of the first engine, and when it failed it wasn't due
to a lube or fuel problem.

( I have used Delo 100 for the first couple of oil changes on the new engine).

How does all of this translate to outboards that run 120f thermostats?
If the oil is formulated for 210 degree operating temps (most cars) does it
still work at 120-150?
I notice my merc 4 stroke has pretty low oil pressure 20-30 hours into an oil
change when I run Merc 10-30. If I use an auto brand it acts the same way. It
does better with merc 25-40

10w-30 at 150* will give less oil pressure than 30W at 150*

The advantage of multi oil is engine lube at ambient temp start up.

anybody who isn't religious about changing the oil -- no matter what oil --
ain't long on desire to keep his engine running.

Anybody using multi-weight oil *must* be very religious about changing it
when
due.

That 5w-50 oil?

The basic oil in that jug is 5w. A group of "viscosity enhancers" allows the
oil to provide the same protection as 50w when the engine heats up.

Caution: The viscosity enhancers will break down after a while and the oil
you
think is 5w-50 is then really only 5w.

I use Delo 400, 30 weight, in my engine.
Got about 4000 hours out of the first engine, and when it failed it wasn't
due
to a lube or fuel problem.

( I have used Delo 100 for the first couple of oil changes on the new
engine).

(JAXAshby) wrote in message ...
How does all of this translate to outboards that run 120f thermostats?
If the oil is formulated for 210 degree operating temps (most cars) does it
still work at 120-150?
I notice my merc 4 stroke has pretty low oil pressure 20-30 hours into an oil
change when I run Merc 10-30. If I use an auto brand it acts the same way. It
does better with merc 25-40

10w-30 at 150* will give less oil pressure than 30W at 150*

The advantage of multi oil is engine lube at ambient temp start up.









im fairly sure i can just ignore your childish posts jax as its fairly
obvious you have no clue what you are talking about.

http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

read and learn. have a nice day.

I don't want to get in the "less filling" "tastes great" battle about whether
multi grade oils thicken or stay the same over the 0 - 210f range but I do know
that 10-30 starts out holding about 40 PSI right after a change in my boat and
in about 15-20 hours it is more like 35. Something is going on.
That is using Merc oil or a good auto oil. If I bump it up to 25-40 it is
better. Straight 30 acts about the same as the 25-40.
Since I am never going to be in my boat if it is much below 70 degrees (air). I
am not sure why I am not just running 30HD. Cooling water will range from 67f
to 88f (5 year min/max) based on the water samples I do for the state.

Gene Kearns wrote:

Your scenario is only valid in an engine that uses very light oil and
is infrequently used. There should be enough oil remaining in the
clearances between bearings and journals to allow an engine to
re-start without damage.

I'm helping a neighbor rebuild the gasoline engine in his old Sears
tractor. The engine hasn't been started in more than a year. When we
took it apart, there still was an oil film on every part there should
have been.


--
We today have a president of the United States who looks like he is the
son of Howdy Doody or Alfred E. Newman, who isn't smarter than either of
them, who is arrogant about his ignorance, who is reckless and
incompetent, and whose backers are turning the United States into a pariah.

What, me worry?

okay, be a dumb **** then. no skin off my teeth.

(BenC)
Date: 9/21/2004 3:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

(JAXAshby) wrote in message
...
How does all of this translate to outboards that run 120f thermostats?
If the oil is formulated for 210 degree operating temps (most cars) does
it
still work at 120-150?
I notice my merc 4 stroke has pretty low oil pressure 20-30 hours into an
oil
change when I run Merc 10-30. If I use an auto brand it acts the same way.
It
does better with merc 25-40

10w-30 at 150* will give less oil pressure than 30W at 150*

The advantage of multi oil is engine lube at ambient temp start up.









im fairly sure i can just ignore your childish posts jax as its fairly
obvious you have no clue what you are talking about.

http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

read and learn. have a nice day.

if ANYone tells you multi grade oil "thicken up" after they warm (I saw the
clown from Mack Boring, Larry Berlin make that very claim in a seminar), invite
them to put a $100 bill on the table. Then, you pour room temp 10w-40 oil into
an old frying pan on the stove. notice how it moves around when you tilt the
pan. Turn on the burner and wait a couple minutes. Then tilt the pan again
and notice how the oil moves around.

Duh. any clown who tells you multi's "thicken up" has not once in his life
pulled a dipstick on an engine with multi when at room temp and again when at
operating temp.

dumb, dumb, dumb.

I don't want to get in the "less filling" "tastes great" battle about whether
multi grade oils thicken or stay the same over the 0 - 210f range but I do
know
that 10-30 starts out holding about 40 PSI right after a change in my boat
and
in about 15-20 hours it is more like 35. Something is going on.
That is using Merc oil or a good auto oil. If I bump it up to 25-40 it is
better. Straight 30 acts about the same as the 25-40.
Since I am never going to be in my boat if it is much below 70 degrees (air).
I
am not sure why I am not just running 30HD. Cooling water will range from 67f
to 88f (5 year min/max) based on the water samples I do for the state.

I
am not sure why I am not just running 30HD.

because 30w does not lube pressure oil bearings as quickly upon engine startup
as does 5w-40. Not by a long shot. you can hear the difference, easily.

genei, you just laid waste to your claim of having an A & E, and using same to
make your living. even a hammer mechanic can hear the difference.

genie, knock it off. kriste on a crutch.

First of
all, 5 weight oil doesn't "lube better" than 40 weight oil.

it most certainly does, during the seconds it takes for pressure oil of a
just
started cold (meaning not at operating temp) engine to reach all the
bearings
needing pressure oil. 5w oil flows more easier at starting temp than does
40w
(ob vee us frickin' lee). that clatter you hear (well, a qualified mechanic
hears) on a just started engine is the bearings grinding and rubbing and
clashing with no pressue oil present.

If you hear "bearings grinding and rubbing and clashing" 5 weight, or
even 0 weight isn't going to help you. Besides, a real mechanic knows
that what you are probably hearing is valve lash, before the lifters
pump up.

Your scenario is only valid in an engine that uses very light oil and
is infrequently used. There should be enough oil remaining in the
clearances between bearings and journals to allow an engine to
re-start without damage.

Most people probably start their vehicle about 1250 times a year.....
if we heard "bearings grinding and rubbing and clashing" each time, I
don't think an automobile would last a month........

Mobil makes a 0W-40. Why don't you go out at fill that sunfish (or is
it Sunfish) (oh-ho-ho-ho-ho-ho..... Oh God, stop it Jax, you're
killing me with those capitals) up with some zero weight to help those
bearings out...... maybe if you wait long enough they'll come out
with a -30W-0 and that is sure to work even better..... have you
tried straight kerosene yet???

--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/ Homepage
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC
is located.
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide

thank you hoary for confusing oil film with pressure oil. what a genius you
are. we are honored by your presence.

Harry Krause
Date: 9/21/2004 8:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

Gene Kearns wrote:

Your scenario is only valid in an engine that uses very light oil and
is infrequently used. There should be enough oil remaining in the
clearances between bearings and journals to allow an engine to
re-start without damage.

I'm helping a neighbor rebuild the gasoline engine in his old Sears
tractor. The engine hasn't been started in more than a year. When we
took it apart, there still was an oil film on every part there should
have been.


--
We today have a president of the United States who looks like he is the
son of Howdy Doody or Alfred E. Newman, who isn't smarter than either of
them, who is arrogant about his ignorance, who is reckless and
incompetent, and whose backers are turning the United States into a pariah.

What, me worry?

genei, knock it off. you long ago stopped trying to make a living even as a
tear down mechanic for 1940's aircraft engines.

Gene Kearns
Date: 9/21/2004 8:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

On 21 Sep 2004 02:14:44 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

How does all of this translate to outboards that run 120f thermostats?
If the oil is formulated for 210 degree operating temps (most cars) does it
still work at 120-150?
I notice my merc 4 stroke has pretty low oil pressure 20-30 hours into an
oil
change when I run Merc 10-30. If I use an auto brand it acts the same way.
It
does better with merc 25-40

10w-30 at 150* will give less oil pressure than 30W at 150*

The advantage of multi oil is engine lube at ambient temp start up.



Demonstrably, one of the most incredibly ignorant posts you have ever
made.....

http://www.fammllc.com/htmlpub/LUBE_bulletin_06.htm



--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/ Homepage
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC
is located.
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide

Garth Almgren wrote:
: Around 9/19/2004 10:32 PM, Calif Bill wrote:

: Well jaxass, how come cars have successfully run for years with straight
: weight? My Ford 351W in the boat calls for straight 30 weight.


: As does the Crusader 220 in my dad's Chris...


As does my OMC 3.8 liter (manufacturer recommends straight 30W).

b.

I bow to your authority on *that* subject.....


genei, my authority, and the authority of millions of professional mechanics,
and even more amateurs.

genei, you just laid waste to your claim of having an A & E, and using same
to
make your living. even a hammer mechanic can hear the difference.


I bow to your authority on *that* subject.....


--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/ Homepage
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC
is located.
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com Real Time
Pictures at My Marina
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide