I just bought a used 1990 Bayliner Capri. It came with an AM-FM
cassette deck but only am-fm is working.

From an electrical viewpoint, is therre any reason I couldn"t simply
install a regular car deck in my boat?

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

No reason you can't.
Just be careful w/ water around it.
Get a good cover and install if it does not already have one.
Also be aware that if it has presets and a clock it can run the battery down
over time. A couple weeks is no big deal but a month or more will drain a
battery.
Recommend installing a switch if you don't already have one so you can kill
all power to the radio when not using the boat.

--
Tony
my boats at http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com

"Melandre" wrote in message
...
I just bought a used 1990 Bayliner Capri. It came with an AM-FM
cassette deck but only am-fm is working.

From an electrical viewpoint, is therre any reason I couldn"t simply
install a regular car deck in my boat?

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

I've had an automotive Kenwood AM-FM-CD - removable face in my boat for 2 years
with no problem that I got on ebay. It had a radio before and I am still using
teh flip down door over the front. I did run all power through a panel
switch. You just have to hit "seek" the first time you get in it for the day
as it won't remember presets.

Melandre wrote:

I just bought a used 1990 Bayliner Capri. It came with an AM-FM
cassette deck but only am-fm is working.

From an electrical viewpoint, is therre any reason I couldn"t simply
install a regular car deck in my boat?

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

Did you install it yourself? My problem is on my 1990 Bayliner, there
seems to be only 2 wires (+ the 4 wires for the speakers) for the
audio component::

Red (with a small fuse connected to that red wire) - 12Volts battery?
Black - Ground???? (or possibly Power lead???)

The CD car deck however seems to require at least 3 connections:

Black Wi "to be connected to metallic body or chassis of the car"
Yellow wi "To a live terminal in the fuse block connecting to the
car battery (bypassing the ignition switch)"
Red wi "To an accessory terminal in the fuse block".

So,
-the battery lead is definitely the yellow wire at the back of new CD
deck
-the power lead (supplies power when key in the accessory position or
ON) is definitely the RED wire at the back of CD deck.

It seems like my yellow (deck) wire needs to be connected to the red
(Bayliner) wire.

The black wire (Bayliner) is the one that I don't know about. I was
assuming it was a GROUND wire but could it be the Power lead (in which
case it would attach to the RED (deck) wire and NOT the Black (deck)
wire....

Too confusing... Once I get the basic wiring figured out (and the CD
deck working), I will try to install a switch to cut the power from
the battery lead.

Andre

Yes, I am also trying to keep the flip down door of the old unit.
Will require some minor adjustments...

On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 07:59:58 -0500, bob wrote:

I've had an automotive Kenwood AM-FM-CD - removable face in my boat for 2 years
with no problem that I got on ebay. It had a radio before and I am still using
teh flip down door over the front. I did run all power through a panel
switch. You just have to hit "seek" the first time you get in it for the day
as it won't remember presets.

Melandre wrote:

I just bought a used 1990 Bayliner Capri. It came with an AM-FM
cassette deck but only am-fm is working.

From an electrical viewpoint, is therre any reason I couldn"t simply
install a regular car deck in my boat?

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

"Melandre" wrote in message
...
Did you install it yourself? My problem is on my 1990 Bayliner, there
seems to be only 2 wires (+ the 4 wires for the speakers) for the
audio component::

Red (with a small fuse connected to that red wire) - 12Volts battery?
Black - Ground???? (or possibly Power lead???)

The CD car deck however seems to require at least 3 connections:

Black Wi "to be connected to metallic body or chassis of the car"
Yellow wi "To a live terminal in the fuse block connecting to the
car battery (bypassing the ignition switch)"
Red wi "To an accessory terminal in the fuse block".

So,
-the battery lead is definitely the yellow wire at the back of new CD
deck
-the power lead (supplies power when key in the accessory position or
ON) is definitely the RED wire at the back of CD deck.

It seems like my yellow (deck) wire needs to be connected to the red
(Bayliner) wire.

The black wire (Bayliner) is the one that I don't know about. I was
assuming it was a GROUND wire but could it be the Power lead (in which
case it would attach to the RED (deck) wire and NOT the Black (deck)
wire....

Too confusing... Once I get the basic wiring figured out (and the CD
deck working), I will try to install a switch to cut the power from
the battery lead.

Andre

Yes, I am also trying to keep the flip down door of the old unit.
Will require some minor adjustments...

On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 07:59:58 -0500, bob wrote:

I've had an automotive Kenwood AM-FM-CD - removable face in my boat for 2
years
with no problem that I got on ebay. It had a radio before and I am still
using
teh flip down door over the front. I did run all power through a panel
switch. You just have to hit "seek" the first time you get in it for the
day
as it won't remember presets.

Melandre wrote:

I just bought a used 1990 Bayliner Capri. It came with an AM-FM
cassette deck but only am-fm is working.

From an electrical viewpoint, is therre any reason I couldn"t simply
install a regular car deck in my boat?

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

'

The yellow should be to 12 volts and can be tied into the ignition 12 volts.
is the low amperage to keep the presets. The red is to 12 volts and allows
the radio run power. The black is ground. Without the yellow the presets
go away. I just use the seek on my radio in the boat and do not use the
presets.

Melandre wrote in message . ..

From an electrical viewpoint, is therre any reason I couldn"t simply
install a regular car deck in my boat?

Yes, but many people do it. Car units don't have marinized
construction (the PCB & elsewhere) for greater reliability in a
"salty" environment. If you aren't a blue-water boater it'll be fine
for a long time in a reasonably protected location. If you are it's
usually a false economy to install any non-marinized electronics. The
actual differences are small but important, though inexpensive in
production versus the typically much higher price.

'

The yellow should be to 12 volts and can be tied into the ignition 12 volts.
is the low amperage to keep the presets. The red is to 12 volts and allows
the radio run power. The black is ground. Without the yellow the presets
go away. I just use the seek on my radio in the boat and do not use the
presets.

This would explain why the old cassette deck did not have a yellow
wire (just 12V red and black ground) since it was a dial button for
channel selection (no preset memory) and no clock display (so no need
for constant power). If I understand this correctly, does it mean
taht I could ignore the yellow wire entirely (on the new deck) as long
as I am willing to give up presets and accurate clock?

If I only connect the switched 12V red wire and since I am not
supposed to turn the ignition when the boat is not in the water
(currently in my garage) how would I know if the CD deck is working
properly (I am new to this boating business...just got my Bayliner
boat this weekend)?

Also would another option be to merge together the yellow and red wire
(from deck) and connect to red wire (from boat)? I suppose I could
install a on/off switch on the yellow wire (prior to the connecting
point) to shut the 12 volt power off if the boat is not used for an
extensive period of time...

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

"Melandre" wrote in message
...
'

The yellow should be to 12 volts and can be tied into the ignition 12
volts.
is the low amperage to keep the presets. The red is to 12 volts and
allows
the radio run power. The black is ground. Without the yellow the
presets
go away. I just use the seek on my radio in the boat and do not use the
presets.

This would explain why the old cassette deck did not have a yellow
wire (just 12V red and black ground) since it was a dial button for
channel selection (no preset memory) and no clock display (so no need
for constant power). If I understand this correctly, does it mean
taht I could ignore the yellow wire entirely (on the new deck) as long
as I am willing to give up presets and accurate clock?

If I only connect the switched 12V red wire and since I am not
supposed to turn the ignition when the boat is not in the water
(currently in my garage) how would I know if the CD deck is working
properly (I am new to this boating business...just got my Bayliner
boat this weekend)?

Also would another option be to merge together the yellow and red wire
(from deck) and connect to red wire (from boat)? I suppose I could
install a on/off switch on the yellow wire (prior to the connecting
point) to shut the 12 volt power off if the boat is not used for an
extensive period of time...

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

You should have a shut off for all battery power when not boating. The
switches come in 2 battery and single battery configurations. Look at
www.westmarine.com Why not turn on the ignition when checking the radio/cd
deck Just do not start the motor. If you leave the switch on for hours,
you could burn the points, but for 10-15 minutes no problem. Do not know if
the yellow is required to run. MAke sure it is not one of those radios that
stops operation if removed from the car power. the anti-theft models.

I'm not sure what happens if you don't connect the yellow. You can try it. I
connected the red and yellow together and took it to a "Stereo" switch I had on
the dash. If you will only use the radio while the motor is running, you can
connect the red (or maybe red and yellow) to the hot side of the ignition
switch and the black to ground. I tend to use the radio as much or more often
with the motor off while floating of fishing. I don't want (and you don't
want) to keep the ignition key on that entire time so install another switch as
you suggest you will do later.

If your current radio was factory installed, I'd expect the 2 wires connecting
it are red and black. I'd expect red is power and black is ground. You can
test by taking a 12 volt lamp and run a wire from the neg terminal of the
battery or the engine and see if it lights. (In my case, I can easily remove
the anchor light bulb if you are looking for one to test with.) If red does
not light the bulb, try the black. Whichever is hot, connect it to the red
stereo wire. Connect the other to black. If the radio does not work
correctly, add the yellow wire to the red (stereo) wire connection and try
again.

have fun

Melandre wrote:

Did you install it yourself? My problem is on my 1990 Bayliner, there
seems to be only 2 wires (+ the 4 wires for the speakers) for the
audio component::

Red (with a small fuse connected to that red wire) - 12Volts battery?
Black - Ground???? (or possibly Power lead???)

The CD car deck however seems to require at least 3 connections:

Black Wi "to be connected to metallic body or chassis of the car"
Yellow wi "To a live terminal in the fuse block connecting to the
car battery (bypassing the ignition switch)"
Red wi "To an accessory terminal in the fuse block".

So,
-the battery lead is definitely the yellow wire at the back of new CD
deck
-the power lead (supplies power when key in the accessory position or
ON) is definitely the RED wire at the back of CD deck.

It seems like my yellow (deck) wire needs to be connected to the red
(Bayliner) wire.

The black wire (Bayliner) is the one that I don't know about. I was
assuming it was a GROUND wire but could it be the Power lead (in which
case it would attach to the RED (deck) wire and NOT the Black (deck)
wire....

Too confusing... Once I get the basic wiring figured out (and the CD
deck working), I will try to install a switch to cut the power from
the battery lead.

Andre

Yes, I am also trying to keep the flip down door of the old unit.
Will require some minor adjustments...

On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 07:59:58 -0500, bob wrote:

I've had an automotive Kenwood AM-FM-CD - removable face in my boat for 2 years
with no problem that I got on ebay. It had a radio before and I am still using
teh flip down door over the front. I did run all power through a panel
switch. You just have to hit "seek" the first time you get in it for the day
as it won't remember presets.

Melandre wrote:

I just bought a used 1990 Bayliner Capri. It came with an AM-FM
cassette deck but only am-fm is working.

From an electrical viewpoint, is therre any reason I couldn"t simply
install a regular car deck in my boat?

Andre
Bayliner Capri 1850

and my cd skips like hell on my boat! lol