Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
".JIMinMA." wrote in message ...
Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It can't get any simpler than that. Jim Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the batteries and require a controller? Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back. Thanks! |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() wrote in message m... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It can't get any simpler than that. Jim Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the batteries and require a controller? Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back. Thanks! The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more sophisticated. Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for details on the products I mentioned, and others. Jim |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... wrote in message m... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It can't get any simpler than that. Jim Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the batteries and require a controller? Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back. Thanks! The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more sophisticated. Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for details on the products I mentioned, and others. Jim What you want is a battery combiner not an isolator. $80 at West Marine. When one battery goes above 13.4V (charging) the relay combines the 2 batteries. Less voltage drop than an isolator. Bill |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... wrote in message m... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It can't get any simpler than that. Jim Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the batteries and require a controller? Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back. Thanks! The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more sophisticated. Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for details on the products I mentioned, and others. Jim What you want is a battery combiner not an isolator. $80 at West Marine. When one battery goes above 13.4V (charging) the relay combines the 2 batteries. Less voltage drop than an isolator. Bill They are kind of similar devices, Bill. Relay isolators do not have the .7V voltage drop that the diode isolators do. Also the isolator relay delay has a nice delay feature that the West unit doesn't have, which allows the engine to start on the starting battery before the auxiliary battery is combined with it. Jim |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be
combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... wrote in message m... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It can't get any simpler than that. Jim Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the batteries and require a controller? Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back. Thanks! The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more sophisticated. Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for details on the products I mentioned, and others. Jim What you want is a battery combiner not an isolator. $80 at West Marine. When one battery goes above 13.4V (charging) the relay combines the 2 batteries. Less voltage drop than an isolator. Bill They are kind of similar devices, Bill. Relay isolators do not have the ..7V voltage drop that the diode isolators do. Also the isolator relay delay has a nice delay feature that the West unit doesn't have, which allows the engine to start on the starting battery before the auxiliary battery is combined with it. Jim |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... "Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net... If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay. Bill Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about 10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the starting battery is dead? Jim I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and 2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter / solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit. Bill |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
A good site for information is www.yandina.com (afaik the manufacturer of
West Marine combiners). Quite detailed information on how combiner works as well as about lots of other electrical stuff. Chuck H. ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... wrote in message m... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It can't get any simpler than that. Jim Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the batteries and require a controller? Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back. Thanks! The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more sophisticated. Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for details on the products I mentioned, and others. Jim |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Excellent site Chuck. Thanks
"chuck h" wrote in message .. . A good site for information is www.yandina.com (afaik the manufacturer of West Marine combiners). Quite detailed information on how combiner works as well as about lots of other electrical stuff. Chuck H. ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... wrote in message m... ".JIMinMA." wrote in message ... Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It can't get any simpler than that. Jim Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the batteries and require a controller? Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back. Thanks! The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more sophisticated. Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for details on the products I mentioned, and others. Jim |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|