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Mr. Luddite[_4_]

On 10/5/2018 3:19 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 5 Oct 2018 13:57:34 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 10/5/2018 1:18 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 5 Oct 2018 07:06:51 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

The extension cord thing is what he (and I) did last year mainly to
run the refrigerator and a lamp or two. We lost cable as well, so
I had another extension cord run to a TV that I hooked up an antenna
to and was able to receive 20 something digital channels, either from
Boston or from Providence, RI. This was in a particularly cold period
and after two days it was starting to get chilly so I pulled the feed
wire for the furnace out of it's breaker in the power panel and
connected a "cheater" cord to it that ran off the generator. Worked
fine. I measured the current draw when the furnace and fan were running
with a clamp-on and it was just about 6 amps, well within the Honda's
max current rating of 13 amps. I didn't try but it probably could also
have run the refrigerator and a few LED lights as long as the
refrigerator compressor and furnace fan didn't try to start at the
same time.

It's really just a minor inconvenience anyway. Power failures of more
than an hour or so are very rare. The outdoor transfer switch just
makes it easier than running extension cords all over the place.

Usually you have a disconnect switch for the furnace motor right there
in a handy box. Swap the switch out for a SPDT switch (trade name 3
way). Connect one brass screw to the line and another to a cord with a
plug on it. (black screw goes to the furnace) It will still function
as the legally required disconnect as long as you don't have the plug
connected to anything but it is also your transfer switch for the
furnace., Plug that into an extension cord from the generator. Just be
sure the transformer for the thermostat and igniter is on the load
side of the switch so it transfers over too.

Be aware most "air handlers" for HVAC systems (not a furnace) will
have a 240v motor but that would be immediately apparent if you had a
large 2 pole disconnect similar to the one on the outside unit instead
of a simple snap switch. That is also the disconnect for the toaster
wire heat strips.

Too complicated for what I want to do. My whole furnace, including the
blower runs on 120 vac off of a single 15 amp breaker in the power panel
and only draws 6 amps when running.

Even the boiler, circulating pump, zone controls (7) and three small fan
assisted registers in the 8,000 sq ft house we sold could run on the
little Honda. Current draw was a bit higher but within the Honda
capabilities. No big fan motor though as it was zoned, forced hot
water. Nice thing about that was that the water tank was heated using a
heat exchanger off the boiler so we could still have hot water in the
event of a prolonged power failure.

That was the trick for hooking it up with extension cords and not
cracking into the panel with a shaky flying splice.
If you have transfer equipment it is not necessary.

I know that Greg. I did what I needed to do to get heat at the time
when no transfer switch was installed.

It's why I am installing the outdoor transfer switch now, before winter.

[email protected]

On Fri, 5 Oct 2018 15:25:52 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 10/5/2018 3:19 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 5 Oct 2018 13:57:34 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 10/5/2018 1:18 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 5 Oct 2018 07:06:51 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

The extension cord thing is what he (and I) did last year mainly to
run the refrigerator and a lamp or two. We lost cable as well, so
I had another extension cord run to a TV that I hooked up an antenna
to and was able to receive 20 something digital channels, either from
Boston or from Providence, RI. This was in a particularly cold period
and after two days it was starting to get chilly so I pulled the feed
wire for the furnace out of it's breaker in the power panel and
connected a "cheater" cord to it that ran off the generator. Worked
fine. I measured the current draw when the furnace and fan were running
with a clamp-on and it was just about 6 amps, well within the Honda's
max current rating of 13 amps. I didn't try but it probably could also
have run the refrigerator and a few LED lights as long as the
refrigerator compressor and furnace fan didn't try to start at the
same time.

It's really just a minor inconvenience anyway. Power failures of more
than an hour or so are very rare. The outdoor transfer switch just
makes it easier than running extension cords all over the place.

Usually you have a disconnect switch for the furnace motor right there
in a handy box. Swap the switch out for a SPDT switch (trade name 3
way). Connect one brass screw to the line and another to a cord with a
plug on it. (black screw goes to the furnace) It will still function
as the legally required disconnect as long as you don't have the plug
connected to anything but it is also your transfer switch for the
furnace., Plug that into an extension cord from the generator. Just be
sure the transformer for the thermostat and igniter is on the load
side of the switch so it transfers over too.

Be aware most "air handlers" for HVAC systems (not a furnace) will
have a 240v motor but that would be immediately apparent if you had a
large 2 pole disconnect similar to the one on the outside unit instead
of a simple snap switch. That is also the disconnect for the toaster
wire heat strips.

Too complicated for what I want to do. My whole furnace, including the
blower runs on 120 vac off of a single 15 amp breaker in the power panel
and only draws 6 amps when running.

Even the boiler, circulating pump, zone controls (7) and three small fan
assisted registers in the 8,000 sq ft house we sold could run on the
little Honda. Current draw was a bit higher but within the Honda
capabilities. No big fan motor though as it was zoned, forced hot
water. Nice thing about that was that the water tank was heated using a
heat exchanger off the boiler so we could still have hot water in the
event of a prolonged power failure.

That was the trick for hooking it up with extension cords and not
cracking into the panel with a shaky flying splice.
If you have transfer equipment it is not necessary.

I know that Greg. I did what I needed to do to get heat at the time
when no transfer switch was installed.

It's why I am installing the outdoor transfer switch now, before winter.

It was just a suggestion for folks who are running on cords.
All this arguing seems to have us on edge.

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