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Tim Tim is offline
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On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 20:54:53 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


- show quoted text -
That is probably 3500 hours or so. How much was in salt water ;-)

———/-

None that I know of Greg. It’s alwai been a fresh lake craft. I looked over the toons and no pitting that I could tell
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On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 10:05:21 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 20:54:53 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


- show quoted text -
That is probably 3500 hours or so. How much was in salt water ;-)

———/-

None that I know of Greg. It’s alwai been a fresh lake craft. I looked over the toons and no pitting that I could tell


I was really talking about your 127k mile Mercury but that is good
news on the pontoon.
Pitting on the pontoons will be right at the water line and the spider
cracks will be at the welds where it joins to the risers. Usually they
are in the back one or two.
The other thing that can crack welds is hitting something hard with
one pontoon and "racking" the boat. Again it usually shows up in the
corners. If in doubt, pressure test the toons and look around with
soapy water in a spray bottle. A shop vac on "blow" is plenty of
pressure for that.
The other thing you want to look at is the deck rotting. Look at the
edges of the sheets and at penetrations. That is where it starts.
If everything was sealed well, the deck will last decades.
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Tim Tim is offline
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On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 10:05:21 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 20:54:53 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


- show quoted text -
That is probably 3500 hours or so. How much was in salt water ;-)

———/-

None that I know of Greg. It’s alwai been a fresh lake craft. I looked over the toons and no pitting that I could tell


I was really talking about your 127k mile Mercury but that is good
news on the pontoon.
Pitting on the pontoons will be right at the water line and the spider
cracks will be at the welds where it joins to the risers. Usually they
are in the back one or two.
The other thing that can crack welds is hitting something hard with
one pontoon and "racking" the boat. Again it usually shows up in the
corners. If in doubt, pressure test the toons and look around with
soapy water in a spray bottle. A shop vac on "blow" is plenty of
pressure for that.
The other thing you want to look at is the deck rotting. Look at the
edges of the sheets and at penetrations. That is where it starts.
If everything was sealed well, the deck will last decades.

..........

I’ve looked it over well for cracks etc. honestly, I can’t find a dent in anything. The very front tip of the left hand tube is slightly bent but not enough to make an issue about.
And the boat is plank on nstead of sheets. Interesting. I haven’t found anything to be concerned about with the exception that I’m going to get a new transom engine mount. The wood is getting a bit spongy looking. It’s gotta go.

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On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 11:25:02 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 10:05:21 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 20:54:53 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


- show quoted text -
That is probably 3500 hours or so. How much was in salt water ;-)

———/-

None that I know of Greg. It’s alwai been a fresh lake craft. I looked over the toons and no pitting that I could tell


I was really talking about your 127k mile Mercury but that is good
news on the pontoon.
Pitting on the pontoons will be right at the water line and the spider
cracks will be at the welds where it joins to the risers. Usually they
are in the back one or two.
The other thing that can crack welds is hitting something hard with
one pontoon and "racking" the boat. Again it usually shows up in the
corners. If in doubt, pressure test the toons and look around with
soapy water in a spray bottle. A shop vac on "blow" is plenty of
pressure for that.
The other thing you want to look at is the deck rotting. Look at the
edges of the sheets and at penetrations. That is where it starts.
If everything was sealed well, the deck will last decades.

.........

I’ve looked it over well for cracks etc. honestly, I can’t find a dent in anything. The very front tip of the left hand tube is slightly bent but not enough to make an issue about.
And the boat is plank on nstead of sheets. Interesting. I haven’t found anything to be concerned about with the exception that I’m going to get a new transom engine mount. The wood is getting a bit spongy looking. It’s gotta go.


Yup you don't want your motor falling off in the lake. I had to do the
wood in mine about 28 years ago ;-)
If this is the regular 1.5" keystone looking piece that fits in an
aluminum motor pod, 2 pieces of 3/4" Exterior grade AC plywood
laminated together with waterproof Tite Bond and screwed with
stainless screws will last for quite a while if you seal it with epoxy
resin after you get it assembled. Just be sure to seal the holes where
you mount the motor.
That dent on the nose is what I was talking about when I said hitting
something with one pontoon. Look to see if there is water in them and
do a pressure test for leaks. A TIG guy can fix them pretty easily.


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On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 11:25:02 -0700 (PDT), Tim
- show quoted text -
Yup you don't want your motor falling off in the lake. I had to do the
wood in mine about 28 years ago ;-)
If this is the regular 1.5" keystone looking piece that fits in an
aluminum motor pod, 2 pieces of 3/4" Exterior grade AC plywood
laminated together with waterproof Tite Bond and screwed with
stainless screws will last for quite a while if you seal it with epoxy
resin after you get it assembled. Just be sure to seal the holes where
you mount the motor.
That dent on the nose is what I was talking about when I said hitting
something with one pontoon. Look to see if there is water in them and
do a pressure test for leaks. A TIG guy can fix them pretty easily.


.........


I’m thinking that while I’m pulling the engine anyhow I might as well mount the 115. 80 hp sounds big but this is a big pontoon. I’m not into speed but don’t want to be loaded down and maybe break 20 knots
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On 6/12/18 7:06 AM, Tim wrote:

On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 11:25:02 -0700 (PDT), Tim
- show quoted text -
Yup you don't want your motor falling off in the lake. I had to do the
wood in mine about 28 years ago ;-)
If this is the regular 1.5" keystone looking piece that fits in an
aluminum motor pod, 2 pieces of 3/4" Exterior grade AC plywood
laminated together with waterproof Tite Bond and screwed with
stainless screws will last for quite a while if you seal it with epoxy
resin after you get it assembled. Just be sure to seal the holes where
you mount the motor.
That dent on the nose is what I was talking about when I said hitting
something with one pontoon. Look to see if there is water in them and
do a pressure test for leaks. A TIG guy can fix them pretty easily.


........


I’m thinking that while I’m pulling the engine anyhow I might as well mount the 115. 80 hp sounds big but this is a big pontoon. I’m not into speed but don’t want to be loaded down and maybe break 20 knots



Actually, speed might help your slow-wittedness.
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Tim Tim is offline
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6:11 AMKeyser Soze
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Actually, speed might help your slow-wittedness.

......

Why do you say that? Your imaginary Ducati never helped yours....
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On 6/12/18 7:27 AM, Tim wrote:

6:11 AMKeyser Soze
- show quoted text -
Actually, speed might help your slow-wittedness.

.....

Why do you say that? Your imaginary Ducati never helped yours....



I was referring to methamphetamine, aka speed. Taking some might help
your slow-wittedness.
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On Tue, 12 Jun 2018 07:34:32 -0400, Keyser Soze wrote:

On 6/12/18 7:27 AM, Tim wrote:

6:11 AMKeyser Soze
- show quoted text -
Actually, speed might help your slow-wittedness.

.....

Why do you say that? Your imaginary Ducati never helped yours....



I was referring to methamphetamine, aka speed. Taking some might help
your slow-wittedness.


Was discussing you with a friend, Harry. Given that you're a lying, narcissistic asshole, we decided
that you could improve yourself greatly by giving up the lying. Of course, you'd still be a
narcissistic asshole, so the improvement might not win many friends.

But, might be worth a try, eh Krause?
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