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Mr. Luddite[_4_]

On 1/9/2018 8:54 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 1/9/2018 8:44 AM, John H wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 18:45:11 -0500, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 1/8/2018 6:31 PM, Keyser Soze wrote:
On 1/8/18 5:22 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 1/8/2018 3:47 PM, Keyser Soze wrote:
On 1/8/18 1:32 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 1/8/2018 11:48 AM, Keyser Soze wrote:
On 1/8/18 10:21 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 1/8/2018 10:20 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 9:59:37 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite
wrote:
On 1/8/2018 8:31 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 8:19:41 AM UTC-5, justan wrote:
"Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message:
On 1/8/2018 6:57 AM, justan wrote:
John H Wrote in message:
On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 14:40:34 -0500,
wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 12:59:51 -0500, John H

wrote:

Upon hooking up the OBD scanner, I get a C0899 (Device
voltage low), a C0561 (ABS disabled, invalid
serial data received), and P0673 (#3 Glow plug circuit).
The first (and maybe the second) may be due
to low batteries, which I've treated badly this winter -
only short trips to the store, etc. Trips
that should have been made walking or riding a
motorcycle. So, the charger is on, and we'll see what
happens when the batteries are up to snuff.

"Glow plug" figured prominently in those threads I read
about remote
start not working. It might be worth a shot. Does it run a
little
rough for a minute on a regular start? I don't know a lot
about
diesels but I am guessing if a glow plug was not working,
it would
miss a bit until it started "dieseling"
It may just be a loose connection I guess.

Oh, and charging the batteries didn't change any of the
readings. Looks like I've got an ABS problem
and a glow plug problem.

10 things to check:
Improper Starting Procedure
Vehicle Not in ?Park?
Too Many Remote Start Attempts
Coolant and Oil Pressure
Unlatched Hood
Hazard Warning Lights
The Key is in the Car
Check Engine Light
Dead Keyfob Battery
Check the Manual-
x

Regarding # 4 in your list:

For what it's worth my remote start will only work twice
(two, 10 min.
cycles).Â* A third attempt to remote start won't work until
the key is
inserted and turned to "on" or after the truck has been
started normally
using the key. After that the remote will work again for
another 2
cycles.Â* However,Â* John has said that his remote will
initially start
his truck but then it dies after a few seconds.Â* That's not
normal.

Mine will remote start (using my second key/FOB) if the other
key/FOB
set is in the truck but not inserted in the ignition.Â* I can
also remote
start it using the GMC app that's in my smartphone.Â* If I try
doing that
with the key in the ignition, but in the "off" position, the
app on the
smartphone comes back with a message saying, "Cannot start,
key in
ignition".

Logic tells me that 4 or 8 could be the only things on that
list
Â*Â*Â* that could cause shutdown after start.

I'd narrow it down even more to #8.Â* With the three codes that
John's getting, it's hard to believe the CEL isn't on.Â* Maybe
the CEL bulb is burned out?

Don't think so.Â* If he left his key in the ignition the remote
start
wouldn't start the truck at all.Â* However, it would if he just
left the
keys sitting on the seat or console.Â* Remember, John said his
remote
will start the truck but it shuts down within a few seconds.

I did the same thing... don't count line #1, "10 things to
check". #8 is the "Check engine light".Â* # 7 is the key.

Ha!Â* I am an idiot.

It's not often we get a thread this long and this silly, not that I
have read most of it.Â*

If I were having a "problem" with my truck, rather than seeking
help from a bunch of non-mechanics here who don't know the answer,
I'd simply drop the truck off at an authorized dealership and let
the dealer's service personnel analyze and fix the problem. We're
not talking about a brand new model vehicle here, so whatever the
issue is, it surely has come up previously and there is a
manufacturer's service bulletin on it, along with dealership
mechanics with the tools and knowledge to fix it.

Crikey. How many rec.boaters does it take to change a light bulb?
No one knows, but Fretwell will build you a powerplant off the
energy created by flushing your toilet to power it, so he doesn't
have to spend 25 cents a day to light it once Luddite figures out
how to screw it in.

What an ass.Â*Â* Go back to reading "Little Women" or something for
the 18th time and see if you get anything different out of it.

I read Little Women in the fifth grade. Perhaps you and your boys
here should have.

I've not been impressed by the "mechanical/electrical knowledge"
expressed here since the days we had two boat dealers and a Merc
repair guy posting.

Probably because you don't have a f*&kn' clue as to what we are
talking about.

Sure I do, but I don't think myself knowledgeable enough to diagnose
problems with a pickup truck diesel engine. Apparently you guys think
you are.

All we (I) am trying to do is help based on previous experiences with
wacky problems, including on diesels.Â* I don't claim to be a mechanic.

John's problems are providing the clues.Â* I think he has a bad battery
which would explain the codes reporting low voltages and probably
contributes to the remote starter problem.Â* The battery charger
returning an error is also a clue.Â* It's obviously a smart charger that
uses a switching power supply.Â* When a battery is shorted or open they
will return an "error" if the battery is completely dead or shorted.

I think his battery probably has shorted cells due to a buildup on the
plates.Â* It happens and can be intermittent for a short while, giving
all kinds of weird results.Â* Being a diesel, his truck draws a lot of
current each time he starts it and whatever voltage the battery had
drops to near zero.Â* His alternator will run it but the truck computer
senses an error.

Apparently you posted this before reading the final battery results.
After a couple hours of seeing
the doctor, etc, I tested the battery with a voltmeter and got 11+
volts. So I hooked up the charger
again. This time it worked normally, and within an hour was reading
13+ volts and 'charged'. I put
the key in the ignition, turned it, and the truck immediately started
normally!

Personally, I think the computer is telling me not to do that
'ctrl-alt-delete' stuff without giving
it time to restart - like an hour or so!

If you measured 11 volts initially, that battery is just about dead.
Fully charged a good battery should read close to 12.6 volts.Â* This can
get confusing because a bad battery can take on a "surface charge" when
charging and shortly thereafter that makes it look ok but it isn't.Â* The
plates within the battery lose surface area due to a buildup of lead
sulfate that effectively make the battery's current capacity drop.Â* It
may have had enough to start the truck immediately after charging but it
will usually drop significantly an hour or so later.

Anyway, that's my un-expert opinion of what's going on in your truck.
The 11 volts you measured before charging is not the sign of a good
battery.

BTW ... it will be interesting if it starts "with vigor" this morning.

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