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Speaking of remote starters...
On Tue, 09 Jan 2018 08:39:34 -0500, John H
wrote: My level of household electrical competency allows me to replace wall switches and lightbulbs, and my plumbing competency allows me to replace a toilet or its innards and replace and install a sink, faucet, disposal, et cetera. I'd absolutely call a licensed plumber to handle any repairs or replacements on the propane gas service or remove and replace a water heater. I know you are more competent at these things than I am, but...I'm not impressed with your level of finish work. And if one tries, doesn't succeed, tries again and eventually succeeds, one has learned something. In your case, nothing is learned but the cost of having someone else do the work. It is interesting that as much as Harry likes to trash anyone who does not have a college degree, he could not survive without those people. I am sure most of them charge more per hour than he could dream to ever make. |
Speaking of remote starters...
John H wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 07:36:27 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 1/8/2018 6:57 AM, justan wrote: John H Wrote in message: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 14:40:34 -0500, wrote: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 12:59:51 -0500, John H wrote: Upon hooking up the OBD scanner, I get a C0899 (Device voltage low), a C0561 (ABS disabled, invalid serial data received), and P0673 (#3 Glow plug circuit). The first (and maybe the second) may be due to low batteries, which I've treated badly this winter - only short trips to the store, etc. Trips that should have been made walking or riding a motorcycle. So, the charger is on, and we'll see what happens when the batteries are up to snuff. "Glow plug" figured prominently in those threads I read about remote start not working. It might be worth a shot. Does it run a little rough for a minute on a regular start? I don't know a lot about diesels but I am guessing if a glow plug was not working, it would miss a bit until it started "dieseling" It may just be a loose connection I guess. Oh, and charging the batteries didn't change any of the readings. Looks like I've got an ABS problem and a glow plug problem. 10 things to check: Improper Starting Procedure Vehicle Not in ?Park? Too Many Remote Start Attempts Coolant and Oil Pressure Unlatched Hood Hazard Warning Lights The Key is in the Car Check Engine Light Dead Keyfob Battery Check the Manual- x Regarding # 4 in your list: For what it's worth my remote start will only work twice (two, 10 min. cycles). A third attempt to remote start won't work until the key is inserted and turned to "on" or after the truck has been started normally using the key. After that the remote will work again for another 2 cycles. However, John has said that his remote will initially start his truck but then it dies after a few seconds. That's not normal. Mine will remote start (using my second key/FOB) if the other key/FOB set is in the truck but not inserted in the ignition. I can also remote start it using the GMC app that's in my smartphone. If I try doing that with the key in the ignition, but in the "off" position, the app on the smartphone comes back with a message saying, "Cannot start, key in ignition". Something to try. When working, mine will remote start, run for ten minutes then stop. Then I can remote start again, just as you can. However, and you might check this with yours, at any time during the first running period, I can do the remote start sequence again and get an additional ten minutes added to the time. That does count as the second remote start, but it doesn't use the battery to do it. I used to start my car when I returned from breakfast at a rooming house I stayed in in Dayton, OH so it would warm up. Beat the heck out of getting in a car when it was 10 degrees to go to work. |
Speaking of remote starters...
wrote:
On Tue, 09 Jan 2018 08:46:13 -0500, John H wrote: I'm thinking the ABS problem may be the module. From what I'm reading they do go bad over time. But, I'm not going to try to replace it. I'll let the pros do it. === The sensors which detect wheel velocity are vulnerable also. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com The rental car in Ireland had a pressure sensor go bad shortly after we left Dublin. Drove through a big puddle. When we turned in the car, mentioned it, and the rental agency said happens all th time. |
Speaking of remote starters...
On Tue, 9 Jan 2018 08:42:01 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:
On 1/9/2018 8:31 AM, John H wrote: On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 07:36:27 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 1/8/2018 6:57 AM, justan wrote: John H Wrote in message: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 14:40:34 -0500, wrote: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 12:59:51 -0500, John H wrote: Upon hooking up the OBD scanner, I get a C0899 (Device voltage low), a C0561 (ABS disabled, invalid serial data received), and P0673 (#3 Glow plug circuit). The first (and maybe the second) may be due to low batteries, which I've treated badly this winter - only short trips to the store, etc. Trips that should have been made walking or riding a motorcycle. So, the charger is on, and we'll see what happens when the batteries are up to snuff. "Glow plug" figured prominently in those threads I read about remote start not working. It might be worth a shot. Does it run a little rough for a minute on a regular start? I don't know a lot about diesels but I am guessing if a glow plug was not working, it would miss a bit until it started "dieseling" It may just be a loose connection I guess. Oh, and charging the batteries didn't change any of the readings. Looks like I've got an ABS problem and a glow plug problem. 10 things to check: Improper Starting Procedure Vehicle Not in ?Park? Too Many Remote Start Attempts Coolant and Oil Pressure Unlatched Hood Hazard Warning Lights The Key is in the Car Check Engine Light Dead Keyfob Battery Check the Manual- x Regarding # 4 in your list: For what it's worth my remote start will only work twice (two, 10 min. cycles). A third attempt to remote start won't work until the key is inserted and turned to "on" or after the truck has been started normally using the key. After that the remote will work again for another 2 cycles. However, John has said that his remote will initially start his truck but then it dies after a few seconds. That's not normal. Mine will remote start (using my second key/FOB) if the other key/FOB set is in the truck but not inserted in the ignition. I can also remote start it using the GMC app that's in my smartphone. If I try doing that with the key in the ignition, but in the "off" position, the app on the smartphone comes back with a message saying, "Cannot start, key in ignition". Something to try. When working, mine will remote start, run for ten minutes then stop. Then I can remote start again, just as you can. However, and you might check this with yours, at any time during the first running period, I can do the remote start sequence again and get an additional ten minutes added to the time. That does count as the second remote start, but it doesn't use the battery to do it. Yup. Does that. John, when you bring your truck in to the service dealer you might want to ask them to do a load test on your battery. Do you have one or two? Got two. Already asked them to fully test the batteries. |
Speaking of remote starters...
On Tue, 9 Jan 2018 08:54:02 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:
On 1/9/2018 8:44 AM, John H wrote: On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 18:45:11 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 1/8/2018 6:31 PM, Keyser Soze wrote: On 1/8/18 5:22 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 3:47 PM, Keyser Soze wrote: On 1/8/18 1:32 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 11:48 AM, Keyser Soze wrote: On 1/8/18 10:21 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 10:20 AM, Its Me wrote: On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 9:59:37 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 8:31 AM, Its Me wrote: On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 8:19:41 AM UTC-5, justan wrote: "Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message: On 1/8/2018 6:57 AM, justan wrote: John H Wrote in message: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 14:40:34 -0500, wrote: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 12:59:51 -0500, John H wrote: Upon hooking up the OBD scanner, I get a C0899 (Device voltage low), a C0561 (ABS disabled, invalid serial data received), and P0673 (#3 Glow plug circuit). The first (and maybe the second) may be due to low batteries, which I've treated badly this winter - only short trips to the store, etc. Trips that should have been made walking or riding a motorcycle. So, the charger is on, and we'll see what happens when the batteries are up to snuff. "Glow plug" figured prominently in those threads I read about remote start not working. It might be worth a shot. Does it run a little rough for a minute on a regular start? I don't know a lot about diesels but I am guessing if a glow plug was not working, it would miss a bit until it started "dieseling" It may just be a loose connection I guess. Oh, and charging the batteries didn't change any of the readings. Looks like I've got an ABS problem and a glow plug problem. 10 things to check: Improper Starting Procedure Vehicle Not in ?Park? Too Many Remote Start Attempts Coolant and Oil Pressure Unlatched Hood Hazard Warning Lights The Key is in the Car Check Engine Light Dead Keyfob Battery Check the Manual- x Regarding # 4 in your list: For what it's worth my remote start will only work twice (two, 10 min. cycles).* A third attempt to remote start won't work until the key is inserted and turned to "on" or after the truck has been started normally using the key. After that the remote will work again for another 2 cycles.* However,* John has said that his remote will initially start his truck but then it dies after a few seconds.* That's not normal. Mine will remote start (using my second key/FOB) if the other key/FOB set is in the truck but not inserted in the ignition.* I can also remote start it using the GMC app that's in my smartphone.* If I try doing that with the key in the ignition, but in the "off" position, the app on the smartphone comes back with a message saying, "Cannot start, key in ignition". Logic tells me that 4 or 8 could be the only things on that list ** that could cause shutdown after start. I'd narrow it down even more to #8.* With the three codes that John's getting, it's hard to believe the CEL isn't on.* Maybe the CEL bulb is burned out? Don't think so.* If he left his key in the ignition the remote start wouldn't start the truck at all.* However, it would if he just left the keys sitting on the seat or console.* Remember, John said his remote will start the truck but it shuts down within a few seconds. I did the same thing... don't count line #1, "10 things to check". #8 is the "Check engine light".* # 7 is the key. Ha!* I am an idiot. It's not often we get a thread this long and this silly, not that I have read most of it.* :) If I were having a "problem" with my truck, rather than seeking help from a bunch of non-mechanics here who don't know the answer, I'd simply drop the truck off at an authorized dealership and let the dealer's service personnel analyze and fix the problem. We're not talking about a brand new model vehicle here, so whatever the issue is, it surely has come up previously and there is a manufacturer's service bulletin on it, along with dealership mechanics with the tools and knowledge to fix it. Crikey. How many rec.boaters does it take to change a light bulb? No one knows, but Fretwell will build you a powerplant off the energy created by flushing your toilet to power it, so he doesn't have to spend 25 cents a day to light it once Luddite figures out how to screw it in. What an ass.** Go back to reading "Little Women" or something for the 18th time and see if you get anything different out of it. I read Little Women in the fifth grade. Perhaps you and your boys here should have. I've not been impressed by the "mechanical/electrical knowledge" expressed here since the days we had two boat dealers and a Merc repair guy posting. Probably because you don't have a f*&kn' clue as to what we are talking about. Sure I do, but I don't think myself knowledgeable enough to diagnose problems with a pickup truck diesel engine. Apparently you guys think you are. All we (I) am trying to do is help based on previous experiences with wacky problems, including on diesels. I don't claim to be a mechanic. John's problems are providing the clues. I think he has a bad battery which would explain the codes reporting low voltages and probably contributes to the remote starter problem. The battery charger returning an error is also a clue. It's obviously a smart charger that uses a switching power supply. When a battery is shorted or open they will return an "error" if the battery is completely dead or shorted. I think his battery probably has shorted cells due to a buildup on the plates. It happens and can be intermittent for a short while, giving all kinds of weird results. Being a diesel, his truck draws a lot of current each time he starts it and whatever voltage the battery had drops to near zero. His alternator will run it but the truck computer senses an error. Apparently you posted this before reading the final battery results. After a couple hours of seeing the doctor, etc, I tested the battery with a voltmeter and got 11+ volts. So I hooked up the charger again. This time it worked normally, and within an hour was reading 13+ volts and 'charged'. I put the key in the ignition, turned it, and the truck immediately started normally! Personally, I think the computer is telling me not to do that 'ctrl-alt-delete' stuff without giving it time to restart - like an hour or so! If you measured 11 volts initially, that battery is just about dead. Fully charged a good battery should read close to 12.6 volts. This can get confusing because a bad battery can take on a "surface charge" when charging and shortly thereafter that makes it look ok but it isn't. The plates within the battery lose surface area due to a buildup of lead sulfate that effectively make the battery's current capacity drop. It may have had enough to start the truck immediately after charging but it will usually drop significantly an hour or so later. Anyway, that's my un-expert opinion of what's going on in your truck. The 11 volts you measured before charging is not the sign of a good battery. I was wrong. That time it measured 12+ when I hooked up the charger. I wrote all this down to tell the shop, but didn't look at my notes when I made the post. Was thinking of the earlier reading. The truck started just fine this morning when I took it to the shop. I am beginning to wonder also if the charger may have had a flukey problem. We'll see what the shop says. |
Speaking of remote starters...
On Tue, 9 Jan 2018 08:56:46 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:
On 1/9/2018 8:54 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/9/2018 8:44 AM, John H wrote: On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 18:45:11 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 1/8/2018 6:31 PM, Keyser Soze wrote: On 1/8/18 5:22 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 3:47 PM, Keyser Soze wrote: On 1/8/18 1:32 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 11:48 AM, Keyser Soze wrote: On 1/8/18 10:21 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 10:20 AM, Its Me wrote: On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 9:59:37 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 8:31 AM, Its Me wrote: On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 8:19:41 AM UTC-5, justan wrote: "Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message: On 1/8/2018 6:57 AM, justan wrote: John H Wrote in message: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 14:40:34 -0500, wrote: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 12:59:51 -0500, John H wrote: Upon hooking up the OBD scanner, I get a C0899 (Device voltage low), a C0561 (ABS disabled, invalid serial data received), and P0673 (#3 Glow plug circuit). The first (and maybe the second) may be due to low batteries, which I've treated badly this winter - only short trips to the store, etc. Trips that should have been made walking or riding a motorcycle. So, the charger is on, and we'll see what happens when the batteries are up to snuff. "Glow plug" figured prominently in those threads I read about remote start not working. It might be worth a shot. Does it run a little rough for a minute on a regular start? I don't know a lot about diesels but I am guessing if a glow plug was not working, it would miss a bit until it started "dieseling" It may just be a loose connection I guess. Oh, and charging the batteries didn't change any of the readings. Looks like I've got an ABS problem and a glow plug problem. 10 things to check: Improper Starting Procedure Vehicle Not in ?Park? Too Many Remote Start Attempts Coolant and Oil Pressure Unlatched Hood Hazard Warning Lights The Key is in the Car Check Engine Light Dead Keyfob Battery Check the Manual- x Regarding # 4 in your list: For what it's worth my remote start will only work twice (two, 10 min. cycles).* A third attempt to remote start won't work until the key is inserted and turned to "on" or after the truck has been started normally using the key. After that the remote will work again for another 2 cycles.* However,* John has said that his remote will initially start his truck but then it dies after a few seconds.* That's not normal. Mine will remote start (using my second key/FOB) if the other key/FOB set is in the truck but not inserted in the ignition.* I can also remote start it using the GMC app that's in my smartphone.* If I try doing that with the key in the ignition, but in the "off" position, the app on the smartphone comes back with a message saying, "Cannot start, key in ignition". Logic tells me that 4 or 8 could be the only things on that list *** that could cause shutdown after start. I'd narrow it down even more to #8.* With the three codes that John's getting, it's hard to believe the CEL isn't on.* Maybe the CEL bulb is burned out? Don't think so.* If he left his key in the ignition the remote start wouldn't start the truck at all.* However, it would if he just left the keys sitting on the seat or console.* Remember, John said his remote will start the truck but it shuts down within a few seconds. I did the same thing... don't count line #1, "10 things to check". #8 is the "Check engine light".* # 7 is the key. Ha!* I am an idiot. It's not often we get a thread this long and this silly, not that I have read most of it.* :) If I were having a "problem" with my truck, rather than seeking help from a bunch of non-mechanics here who don't know the answer, I'd simply drop the truck off at an authorized dealership and let the dealer's service personnel analyze and fix the problem. We're not talking about a brand new model vehicle here, so whatever the issue is, it surely has come up previously and there is a manufacturer's service bulletin on it, along with dealership mechanics with the tools and knowledge to fix it. Crikey. How many rec.boaters does it take to change a light bulb? No one knows, but Fretwell will build you a powerplant off the energy created by flushing your toilet to power it, so he doesn't have to spend 25 cents a day to light it once Luddite figures out how to screw it in. What an ass.** Go back to reading "Little Women" or something for the 18th time and see if you get anything different out of it. I read Little Women in the fifth grade. Perhaps you and your boys here should have. I've not been impressed by the "mechanical/electrical knowledge" expressed here since the days we had two boat dealers and a Merc repair guy posting. Probably because you don't have a f*&kn' clue as to what we are talking about. Sure I do, but I don't think myself knowledgeable enough to diagnose problems with a pickup truck diesel engine. Apparently you guys think you are. All we (I) am trying to do is help based on previous experiences with wacky problems, including on diesels.* I don't claim to be a mechanic. John's problems are providing the clues.* I think he has a bad battery which would explain the codes reporting low voltages and probably contributes to the remote starter problem.* The battery charger returning an error is also a clue.* It's obviously a smart charger that uses a switching power supply.* When a battery is shorted or open they will return an "error" if the battery is completely dead or shorted. I think his battery probably has shorted cells due to a buildup on the plates.* It happens and can be intermittent for a short while, giving all kinds of weird results.* Being a diesel, his truck draws a lot of current each time he starts it and whatever voltage the battery had drops to near zero.* His alternator will run it but the truck computer senses an error. Apparently you posted this before reading the final battery results. After a couple hours of seeing the doctor, etc, I tested the battery with a voltmeter and got 11+ volts. So I hooked up the charger again. This time it worked normally, and within an hour was reading 13+ volts and 'charged'. I put the key in the ignition, turned it, and the truck immediately started normally! Personally, I think the computer is telling me not to do that 'ctrl-alt-delete' stuff without giving it time to restart - like an hour or so! If you measured 11 volts initially, that battery is just about dead. Fully charged a good battery should read close to 12.6 volts.* This can get confusing because a bad battery can take on a "surface charge" when charging and shortly thereafter that makes it look ok but it isn't.* The plates within the battery lose surface area due to a buildup of lead sulfate that effectively make the battery's current capacity drop.* It may have had enough to start the truck immediately after charging but it will usually drop significantly an hour or so later. Anyway, that's my un-expert opinion of what's going on in your truck. The 11 volts you measured before charging is not the sign of a good battery. BTW ... it will be interesting if it starts "with vigor" this morning. Yup, right off the bat! |
Speaking of remote starters...
On Tue, 09 Jan 2018 08:52:07 -0500, wrote:
On Tue, 09 Jan 2018 08:46:13 -0500, John H wrote: I'm thinking the ABS problem may be the module. From what I'm reading they do go bad over time. But, I'm not going to try to replace it. I'll let the pros do it. === The sensors which detect wheel velocity are vulnerable also. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com Willl let the shop figure it out. I'll report the results of all this when I get the truck back. |
Speaking of remote starters...
On Tue, 9 Jan 2018 17:07:18 -0000 (UTC), Bill wrote:
John H wrote: On Tue, 9 Jan 2018 01:05:07 -0000 (UTC), Bill wrote: Keyser Soze wrote: On 1/8/18 10:21 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 10:20 AM, Its Me wrote: On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 9:59:37 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 1/8/2018 8:31 AM, Its Me wrote: On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 8:19:41 AM UTC-5, justan wrote: "Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message: On 1/8/2018 6:57 AM, justan wrote: John H Wrote in message: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 14:40:34 -0500, wrote: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 12:59:51 -0500, John H wrote: Upon hooking up the OBD scanner, I get a C0899 (Device voltage low), a C0561 (ABS disabled, invalid serial data received), and P0673 (#3 Glow plug circuit). The first (and maybe the second) may be due to low batteries, which I've treated badly this winter - only short trips to the store, etc. Trips that should have been made walking or riding a motorcycle. So, the charger is on, and we'll see what happens when the batteries are up to snuff. "Glow plug" figured prominently in those threads I read about remote start not working. It might be worth a shot. Does it run a little rough for a minute on a regular start? I don't know a lot about diesels but I am guessing if a glow plug was not working, it would miss a bit until it started "dieseling" It may just be a loose connection I guess. Oh, and charging the batteries didn't change any of the readings. Looks like I've got an ABS problem and a glow plug problem. 10 things to check: Improper Starting Procedure Vehicle Not in ?Park? Too Many Remote Start Attempts Coolant and Oil Pressure Unlatched Hood Hazard Warning Lights The Key is in the Car Check Engine Light Dead Keyfob Battery Check the Manual- x Regarding # 4 in your list: For what it's worth my remote start will only work twice (two, 10 min. cycles).* A third attempt to remote start won't work until the key is inserted and turned to "on" or after the truck has been started normally using the key. After that the remote will work again for another 2 cycles.* However,* John has said that his remote will initially start his truck but then it dies after a few seconds.* That's not normal. Mine will remote start (using my second key/FOB) if the other key/FOB set is in the truck but not inserted in the ignition.* I can also remote start it using the GMC app that's in my smartphone.* If I try doing that with the key in the ignition, but in the "off" position, the app on the smartphone comes back with a message saying, "Cannot start, key in ignition". Logic tells me that 4 or 8 could be the only things on that list ** that could cause shutdown after start. I'd narrow it down even more to #8.* With the three codes that John's getting, it's hard to believe the CEL isn't on.* Maybe the CEL bulb is burned out? Don't think so.* If he left his key in the ignition the remote start wouldn't start the truck at all.* However, it would if he just left the keys sitting on the seat or console.* Remember, John said his remote will start the truck but it shuts down within a few seconds. I did the same thing... don't count line #1, "10 things to check".* #8 is the "Check engine light".* # 7 is the key. Ha!* I am an idiot. It's not often we get a thread this long and this silly, not that I have read most of it. :) If I were having a "problem" with my truck, rather than seeking help from a bunch of non-mechanics here who don't know the answer, I'd simply drop the truck off at an authorized dealership and let the dealer's service personnel analyze and fix the problem. We're not talking about a brand new model vehicle here, so whatever the issue is, it surely has come up previously and there is a manufacturer's service bulletin on it, along with dealership mechanics with the tools and knowledge to fix it. Crikey. How many rec.boaters does it take to change a light bulb? No one knows, but Fretwell will build you a powerplant off the energy created by flushing your toilet to power it, so he doesn't have to spend 25 cents a day to light it once Luddite figures out how to screw it in. My connector for the number two injector went bad. Known problem. Happened about 1/4 mile from Donner Summit. Towed to dealer in Colfax. $175 dealer charge to find nothing wrong. Went in to limp mode before I got to Sacramento. Bought an ODB reader at Oreilly auto parts and WiFi at McDonalds to diagnose problem. The dealer had several codes, but the known problem code was there. So a $60 reader and the internet showed me how to fix the problem. Icepick or sharp pointed object to go through the plastic and make a better connection. Or a piece of aluminum foil from a cigarette pack also works. Helps to be able to fix stuff yourself. I'm thinking the ABS problem may be the module. From what I'm reading they do go bad over time. But, I'm not going to try to replace it. I'll let the pros do it. My daughters Escort had the sensor in the differential go bad. Easy to change. Some ODB readers do not read some of the codes from other than the engine. The Actron 9580A is supposed to be a pretty good one. It also reads chassis codes. |
Speaking of remote starters...
On Tue, 09 Jan 2018 12:00:53 -0500, wrote:
On Tue, 09 Jan 2018 08:33:05 -0500, John H wrote: On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 08:19:43 -0500 (EST), justan wrote: "Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message: On 1/8/2018 6:57 AM, justan wrote: John H Wrote in message: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 14:40:34 -0500, wrote: On Sun, 07 Jan 2018 12:59:51 -0500, John H wrote: Upon hooking up the OBD scanner, I get a C0899 (Device voltage low), a C0561 (ABS disabled, invalid serial data received), and P0673 (#3 Glow plug circuit). The first (and maybe the second) may be due to low batteries, which I've treated badly this winter - only short trips to the store, etc. Trips that should have been made walking or riding a motorcycle. So, the charger is on, and we'll see what happens when the batteries are up to snuff. "Glow plug" figured prominently in those threads I read about remote start not working. It might be worth a shot. Does it run a little rough for a minute on a regular start? I don't know a lot about diesels but I am guessing if a glow plug was not working, it would miss a bit until it started "dieseling" It may just be a loose connection I guess. Oh, and charging the batteries didn't change any of the readings. Looks like I've got an ABS problem and a glow plug problem. 10 things to check: Improper Starting Procedure Vehicle Not in ?Park? Too Many Remote Start Attempts Coolant and Oil Pressure Unlatched Hood Hazard Warning Lights The Key is in the Car Check Engine Light Dead Keyfob Battery Check the Manual- x Regarding # 4 in your list: For what it's worth my remote start will only work twice (two, 10 min. cycles). A third attempt to remote start won't work until the key is inserted and turned to "on" or after the truck has been started normally using the key. After that the remote will work again for another 2 cycles. However, John has said that his remote will initially start his truck but then it dies after a few seconds. That's not normal. Mine will remote start (using my second key/FOB) if the other key/FOB set is in the truck but not inserted in the ignition. I can also remote start it using the GMC app that's in my smartphone. If I try doing that with the key in the ignition, but in the "off" position, the app on the smartphone comes back with a message saying, "Cannot start, key in ignition". Logic tells me that 4 or 8 could be the only things on that list that could cause shutdown after start. Nope. Something else can cause it. Don't know what yet, but it's probably computer related, or associated with the bad glow plug. The guys on the Duramax threads said a code will shut it down. (although there was some dispute about what kind of codes) We talked about that days ago. I thought we were done then. No, we were just getting started then. Trying to give Harry something to whine about besides politics. |
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