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#21
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
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#23
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 08:01:41 -0500, "Ryan P."
wrote: On 3/15/2016 4:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:54:11 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 2:42 PM, John H. wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:57:40 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: " Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. " Why no alternator? I'm not following... I'm glad you asked that. I was going to do so, but then thought it might somehow be a real stupid question. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, idiots, audiophools, and narcissists...not guns! I'm the one asking the stupid questions, I'm sure. I'm the novice here, compared to most of you folks. Okay, I should use the proper terms, I suppose. Its a 1985 Mercury 75. I do have electric start, but my understanding is that on older engines, a stator/vr is only to trickle charge the starting battery, and only does that at high RPMs? I was guessing that you had one without a charging system. That old 75 has a 9 amp alternator in the stator. If it is working, it will keep your battery up if you are running it fairly often. It will put out pretty well at anything much over an idle. (I had one) But can I link that to the "house" battery? If I jump the starter battery and the house battery together, won't the house battery draw down the starter? Battery switch or isolator. BTW don't run in "both" on a battery switch. Charge one, then the other. It is the only way to reliably charge 2 batteries if you are not using an isolator and still the best way. Both is really just an artifact of the "make before break" design of the switch but it might be useful if both batteries are down and between them you have enough to kick over the motor. It is the only real use. |
#24
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
Ryan P. wrote:
On 3/15/2016 11:56 AM, Califbill wrote: fire man wrote: "Ryan P." Wrote in message: With spring almost here, it won't be long until the boat comes out of its cocoon for its April shake down cruise. The subject of taking the boat along with us to a family vacation out in the Wisconsin Dells area came up, and that got me to thinking about the battery situation. Its just a small bowrider, so either I'll pull it out each night and park it by the house, or I'd rent a slip for $15 a night and leave it in the water for the three days we'd be up there. Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. Has anybody here ever used solar charging stations? I see them on Amazon for between $40 and $200, at least for power levels I might require. I want something that's easy to stow, so a 5w or 8w flex panel (roughly 1' x 1') is probably the largest I could go. I know those are more maintenance charge levels, but I'm thinking that might be enough to compensate for the 4-5 hours of use the stereo would get, assuming it has a good portion of the morning in full sun to charge. Thoughts? Can you do without the stereo? Most slips have power available. Especially where bass boats would slip. Just take along a battery charger or buy a smart charger. Or pull the battery and take to house and charge. More juice and cheaper than solar. I'll have to check with the marina. A small smart charger would be better than solar, absolutely. I just don't remember seeing outlets on all slips. I don't really wanna pull the battery... The marina is literally across the street from the rental house. That's a long walk carrying a lead box. Small handtruck |
#25
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
On 3/16/2016 9:01 AM, Ryan P. wrote:
On 3/15/2016 4:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:54:11 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 2:42 PM, John H. wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:57:40 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: " Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. " Why no alternator? I'm not following... I'm glad you asked that. I was going to do so, but then thought it might somehow be a real stupid question. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, idiots, audiophools, and narcissists...not guns! I'm the one asking the stupid questions, I'm sure. I'm the novice here, compared to most of you folks. Okay, I should use the proper terms, I suppose. Its a 1985 Mercury 75. I do have electric start, but my understanding is that on older engines, a stator/vr is only to trickle charge the starting battery, and only does that at high RPMs? I was guessing that you had one without a charging system. That old 75 has a 9 amp alternator in the stator. If it is working, it will keep your battery up if you are running it fairly often. It will put out pretty well at anything much over an idle. (I had one) But can I link that to the "house" battery? If I jump the starter battery and the house battery together, won't the house battery draw down the starter? Nope. The starter will draw on the battery, and combining batteries wouldn't be the best thing to do if one of them has a shorted cell or is grossly depleted. Best thing to do is use a battery selector switch. |
#26
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
On 3/16/2016 10:36 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 08:01:41 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 4:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:54:11 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 2:42 PM, John H. wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:57:40 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: " Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. " Why no alternator? I'm not following... I'm glad you asked that. I was going to do so, but then thought it might somehow be a real stupid question. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, idiots, audiophools, and narcissists...not guns! I'm the one asking the stupid questions, I'm sure. I'm the novice here, compared to most of you folks. Okay, I should use the proper terms, I suppose. Its a 1985 Mercury 75. I do have electric start, but my understanding is that on older engines, a stator/vr is only to trickle charge the starting battery, and only does that at high RPMs? I was guessing that you had one without a charging system. That old 75 has a 9 amp alternator in the stator. If it is working, it will keep your battery up if you are running it fairly often. It will put out pretty well at anything much over an idle. (I had one) But can I link that to the "house" battery? If I jump the starter battery and the house battery together, won't the house battery draw down the starter? Battery switch or isolator. BTW don't run in "both" on a battery switch. Charge one, then the other. It is the only way to reliably charge 2 batteries if you are not using an isolator and still the best way. Both is really just an artifact of the "make before break" design of the switch but it might be useful if both batteries are down and between them you have enough to kick over the motor. It is the only real use. I'll throw a volt meter on the battery and make sure the charging system is working properly when I take her out of storage in a few weeks. A battery switch is pretty simple to install... If its really producing 9amps, that should be more than enough to keep the house battery alive if I let it charge while pulling kids on the tube or whatever. |
#27
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 13:34:54 -0500, "Ryan P."
wrote: On 3/16/2016 10:36 AM, wrote: On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 08:01:41 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 4:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:54:11 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 2:42 PM, John H. wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:57:40 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: " Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. " Why no alternator? I'm not following... I'm glad you asked that. I was going to do so, but then thought it might somehow be a real stupid question. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, idiots, audiophools, and narcissists...not guns! I'm the one asking the stupid questions, I'm sure. I'm the novice here, compared to most of you folks. Okay, I should use the proper terms, I suppose. Its a 1985 Mercury 75. I do have electric start, but my understanding is that on older engines, a stator/vr is only to trickle charge the starting battery, and only does that at high RPMs? I was guessing that you had one without a charging system. That old 75 has a 9 amp alternator in the stator. If it is working, it will keep your battery up if you are running it fairly often. It will put out pretty well at anything much over an idle. (I had one) But can I link that to the "house" battery? If I jump the starter battery and the house battery together, won't the house battery draw down the starter? Battery switch or isolator. BTW don't run in "both" on a battery switch. Charge one, then the other. It is the only way to reliably charge 2 batteries if you are not using an isolator and still the best way. Both is really just an artifact of the "make before break" design of the switch but it might be useful if both batteries are down and between them you have enough to kick over the motor. It is the only real use. I'll throw a volt meter on the battery and make sure the charging system is working properly when I take her out of storage in a few weeks. A battery switch is pretty simple to install... If its really producing 9amps, that should be more than enough to keep the house battery alive if I let it charge while pulling kids on the tube or whatever. |
#28
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 13:34:54 -0500, "Ryan P."
wrote: On 3/16/2016 10:36 AM, wrote: On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 08:01:41 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 4:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:54:11 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 2:42 PM, John H. wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:57:40 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: " Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. " Why no alternator? I'm not following... I'm glad you asked that. I was going to do so, but then thought it might somehow be a real stupid question. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, idiots, audiophools, and narcissists...not guns! I'm the one asking the stupid questions, I'm sure. I'm the novice here, compared to most of you folks. Okay, I should use the proper terms, I suppose. Its a 1985 Mercury 75. I do have electric start, but my understanding is that on older engines, a stator/vr is only to trickle charge the starting battery, and only does that at high RPMs? I was guessing that you had one without a charging system. That old 75 has a 9 amp alternator in the stator. If it is working, it will keep your battery up if you are running it fairly often. It will put out pretty well at anything much over an idle. (I had one) But can I link that to the "house" battery? If I jump the starter battery and the house battery together, won't the house battery draw down the starter? Battery switch or isolator. BTW don't run in "both" on a battery switch. Charge one, then the other. It is the only way to reliably charge 2 batteries if you are not using an isolator and still the best way. Both is really just an artifact of the "make before break" design of the switch but it might be useful if both batteries are down and between them you have enough to kick over the motor. It is the only real use. I'll throw a volt meter on the battery and make sure the charging system is working properly when I take her out of storage in a few weeks. A battery switch is pretty simple to install... If its really producing 9amps, that should be more than enough to keep the house battery alive if I let it charge while pulling kids on the tube or whatever. If you install a voltage meter on the motor side of the battery switch, you can monitor the one it is charging and get a very good idea of the state of the charge. Those are fairly primitive systems and most don't even have regulators so when the voltage gets up around 14, the battery is charged. Switch over to the other one. |
#29
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
Ryan P. wrote:
On 3/16/2016 10:36 AM, wrote: On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 08:01:41 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 4:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:54:11 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 2:42 PM, John H. wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:57:40 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: " Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. " Why no alternator? I'm not following... I'm glad you asked that. I was going to do so, but then thought it might somehow be a real stupid question. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, idiots, audiophools, and narcissists...not guns! I'm the one asking the stupid questions, I'm sure. I'm the novice here, compared to most of you folks. Okay, I should use the proper terms, I suppose. Its a 1985 Mercury 75. I do have electric start, but my understanding is that on older engines, a stator/vr is only to trickle charge the starting battery, and only does that at high RPMs? I was guessing that you had one without a charging system. That old 75 has a 9 amp alternator in the stator. If it is working, it will keep your battery up if you are running it fairly often. It will put out pretty well at anything much over an idle. (I had one) But can I link that to the "house" battery? If I jump the starter battery and the house battery together, won't the house battery draw down the starter? Battery switch or isolator. BTW don't run in "both" on a battery switch. Charge one, then the other. It is the only way to reliably charge 2 batteries if you are not using an isolator and still the best way. Both is really just an artifact of the "make before break" design of the switch but it might be useful if both batteries are down and between them you have enough to kick over the motor. It is the only real use. I'll throw a volt meter on the battery and make sure the charging system is working properly when I take her out of storage in a few weeks. A battery switch is pretty simple to install... If its really producing 9amps, that should be more than enough to keep the house battery alive if I let it charge while pulling kids on the tube or whatever. What you need for your application is a battery combiner. I have one on my bass boat and it works great. It will keep the starting battery topped off and then switch to the house battery - or in my case the deep-cycle trolling motor battery. Here's just one example: http://www.charlesindustries.com/main/battcom.html |
#30
posted to rec.boats
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Boat and Batteries and Charging, Oh, my!
On 3/16/2016 6:53 PM, Alex wrote:
Ryan P. wrote: On 3/16/2016 10:36 AM, wrote: On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 08:01:41 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 4:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:54:11 -0500, "Ryan P." wrote: On 3/15/2016 2:42 PM, John H. wrote: On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:57:40 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: " Without an alternator, though, I'm worried about leaving it at a slip. I have an accessory battery, so I'm not worried about getting stranded, but running lights and a stereo take up juice. " Why no alternator? I'm not following... I'm glad you asked that. I was going to do so, but then thought it might somehow be a real stupid question. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, idiots, audiophools, and narcissists...not guns! I'm the one asking the stupid questions, I'm sure. I'm the novice here, compared to most of you folks. Okay, I should use the proper terms, I suppose. Its a 1985 Mercury 75. I do have electric start, but my understanding is that on older engines, a stator/vr is only to trickle charge the starting battery, and only does that at high RPMs? I was guessing that you had one without a charging system. That old 75 has a 9 amp alternator in the stator. If it is working, it will keep your battery up if you are running it fairly often. It will put out pretty well at anything much over an idle. (I had one) But can I link that to the "house" battery? If I jump the starter battery and the house battery together, won't the house battery draw down the starter? Battery switch or isolator. BTW don't run in "both" on a battery switch. Charge one, then the other. It is the only way to reliably charge 2 batteries if you are not using an isolator and still the best way. Both is really just an artifact of the "make before break" design of the switch but it might be useful if both batteries are down and between them you have enough to kick over the motor. It is the only real use. I'll throw a volt meter on the battery and make sure the charging system is working properly when I take her out of storage in a few weeks. A battery switch is pretty simple to install... If its really producing 9amps, that should be more than enough to keep the house battery alive if I let it charge while pulling kids on the tube or whatever. What you need for your application is a battery combiner. I have one on my bass boat and it works great. It will keep the starting battery topped off and then switch to the house battery - or in my case the deep-cycle trolling motor battery. Here's just one example: http://www.charlesindustries.com/main/battcom.html Not bad... Just an automatic battery switch, really... For a bass boat application, or other short-run situations, do you think its necessary to have a voltage regulator for the deep cycle? |
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