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#1
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.... .22lr DA revolver. Plan to shorten barrel to 4" and have it
threaded. Don't want to buy new revolver and sacrifice barrel. From you to my FFL to me. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats
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On Sunday, December 28, 2014 10:09:01 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 19:56:39 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: ... .22lr DA revolver. Plan to shorten barrel to 4" and have it threaded. Don't want to buy new revolver and sacrifice barrel. From you to my FFL to me. Why would you bother to put a suppressor on a revolver? Science fair project? The only one that was reasonably successful was the Dan Wesson with the adjustable cylinder gap as far as I know. You would be better off getting one of those Ruger MKs we keep talking about. I know they are "BB gun" quiet with a decent suppressor Or get an 1895 Nagant-no modification necessary https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvF4yurWSc0 |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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On 12/28/14 1:46 PM, Tim wrote:
On Sunday, December 28, 2014 10:09:01 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 19:56:39 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: ... .22lr DA revolver. Plan to shorten barrel to 4" and have it threaded. Don't want to buy new revolver and sacrifice barrel. From you to my FFL to me. Why would you bother to put a suppressor on a revolver? Science fair project? The only one that was reasonably successful was the Dan Wesson with the adjustable cylinder gap as far as I know. You would be better off getting one of those Ruger MKs we keep talking about. I know they are "BB gun" quiet with a decent suppressor Or get an 1895 Nagant-no modification necessary https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvF4yurWSc0 Found a threaded barrel for my Ruger Mark III. Don't know if it has a serial number. Left email for the seller. |
#4
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On Sun, 28 Dec 2014 14:01:53 -0500, Keyser Söze
wrote: On 12/28/14 1:46 PM, Tim wrote: On Sunday, December 28, 2014 10:09:01 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 19:56:39 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: ... .22lr DA revolver. Plan to shorten barrel to 4" and have it threaded. Don't want to buy new revolver and sacrifice barrel. From you to my FFL to me. Why would you bother to put a suppressor on a revolver? Science fair project? The only one that was reasonably successful was the Dan Wesson with the adjustable cylinder gap as far as I know. You would be better off getting one of those Ruger MKs we keep talking about. I know they are "BB gun" quiet with a decent suppressor Or get an 1895 Nagant-no modification necessary https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvF4yurWSc0 Found a threaded barrel for my Ruger Mark III. Don't know if it has a serial number. Left email for the seller. === Snce you don't hunt, why do you wan't a suppressor? |
#6
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posted to rec.boats
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On 12/29/14 1:00 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 28 Dec 2014 14:01:53 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: On 12/28/14 1:46 PM, Tim wrote: On Sunday, December 28, 2014 10:09:01 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 19:56:39 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: ... .22lr DA revolver. Plan to shorten barrel to 4" and have it threaded. Don't want to buy new revolver and sacrifice barrel. From you to my FFL to me. Why would you bother to put a suppressor on a revolver? Science fair project? The only one that was reasonably successful was the Dan Wesson with the adjustable cylinder gap as far as I know. You would be better off getting one of those Ruger MKs we keep talking about. I know they are "BB gun" quiet with a decent suppressor Or get an 1895 Nagant-no modification necessary https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvF4yurWSc0 Found a threaded barrel for my Ruger Mark III. Don't know if it has a serial number. Left email for the seller. A barrel is just a maintenance part. It is the receiver of the gun or the suppressor can that is serialized. If you can get that threaded barrel and it is the same thread as your can you are good to go and you will ne a lot happier than you would be with a regular revolver. The serial number on the Mark III is on the upper, not the lower receiver. The upper taps off in one piece, including the barrel: http://tinyurl.com/qdxxqt8 |
#7
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posted to rec.boats
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On Mon, 29 Dec 2014 17:27:49 -0500, wrote:
If you have the bull barrel model you can just make a hard plastic rear bushing for your can and slide it on. The stuff my buddy used was similar to StarBoard. It was a very snug friction fit on the barrel and worked great on any Ruger MK without modification. He did cut a notch in the bushing to clear the sight for a better attachment === Some of the Mark III barrels have little detents near the muzzle end which are there to provide a grip for set screws with "slip on" devices like a muzzle brake, etc. https://www.volquartsen.com/tags/6-barrel-add-ons |
#8
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posted to rec.boats
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On 12/29/14 5:20 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Dec 2014 15:44:11 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: On 12/29/14 1:00 AM, wrote: On Sun, 28 Dec 2014 14:01:53 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: On 12/28/14 1:46 PM, Tim wrote: On Sunday, December 28, 2014 10:09:01 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 19:56:39 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote: ... .22lr DA revolver. Plan to shorten barrel to 4" and have it threaded. Don't want to buy new revolver and sacrifice barrel. From you to my FFL to me. Why would you bother to put a suppressor on a revolver? Science fair project? The only one that was reasonably successful was the Dan Wesson with the adjustable cylinder gap as far as I know. You would be better off getting one of those Ruger MKs we keep talking about. I know they are "BB gun" quiet with a decent suppressor Or get an 1895 Nagant-no modification necessary https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvF4yurWSc0 Found a threaded barrel for my Ruger Mark III. Don't know if it has a serial number. Left email for the seller. A barrel is just a maintenance part. It is the receiver of the gun or the suppressor can that is serialized. If you can get that threaded barrel and it is the same thread as your can you are good to go and you will ne a lot happier than you would be with a regular revolver. The serial number on the Mark III is on the upper, not the lower receiver. The upper taps off in one piece, including the barrel: http://tinyurl.com/qdxxqt8 You are right, the Mk III does use a pressed in barrel and it is not easily freed from the receiver or replaced. I just saw ads for them and thought it was a regular screw in deal. There are companies that will sell you a whole new upper but I am not sure how you deal with the serial number. What would your gun smith want to thread yours? Around here a new serialized assembly goes through an FFL. My AR15/22 came with a properly threaded barrel and functions properly with a suppressor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCvAPIgi9nw Threading the pistol barrel is $125-$150, typically |
#9
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posted to rec.boats
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Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 29 Dec 2014 17:27:49 -0500, wrote: If you have the bull barrel model you can just make a hard plastic rear bushing for your can and slide it on. The stuff my buddy used was similar to StarBoard. It was a very snug friction fit on the barrel and worked great on any Ruger MK without modification. He did cut a notch in the bushing to clear the sight for a better attachment === Some of the Mark III barrels have little detents near the muzzle end which are there to provide a grip for set screws with "slip on" devices like a muzzle brake, etc. https://www.volquartsen.com/tags/6-barrel-add-ons Compensators for MKII/III target guns? What purpose would that serve? They have zero recoil and the action is all at the rear anyway. |
#10
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posted to rec.boats
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On Mon, 29 Dec 2014 19:46:30 -0500, Someone Else
wrote: Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 29 Dec 2014 17:27:49 -0500, wrote: If you have the bull barrel model you can just make a hard plastic rear bushing for your can and slide it on. The stuff my buddy used was similar to StarBoard. It was a very snug friction fit on the barrel and worked great on any Ruger MK without modification. He did cut a notch in the bushing to clear the sight for a better attachment === Some of the Mark III barrels have little detents near the muzzle end which are there to provide a grip for set screws with "slip on" devices like a muzzle brake, etc. https://www.volquartsen.com/tags/6-barrel-add-ons Compensators for MKII/III target guns? What purpose would that serve? They have zero recoil and the action is all at the rear anyway. === If you are shooting in a timed competition which rewards rapid fire, anything you can do to eliminate/minimize muzzle flip will potentially improve your score. Ideally you'd like to get your shots off as fast as you can accurately pull the trigger. The top guys that I shoot with can bring up the gun from a rested position and get off 5 well placed shots in 2.3 seconds. That doesn't give you a lot of time to re-aim between shots. The old High Standard that I shoot with has a custom ported barrel which accomplishes the same thing. |
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