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Default Yamaha 115 2 stroke won't start by key???????

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 13:44:12 -0400, KC wrote:

On 8/5/2014 1:42 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 13:23:12 -0400, KC wrote:

On 8/5/2014 11:49 AM,
wrote:
On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 11:26:30 -0400, Poco Loco
wrote:

I finally was able to start it with a screw driver jumping the starter solenoid

This certainly makes it sound like something in the "S" circuit to the
solenoid. (Ignition switch, connector or a broken wire in the
harness).


Well, I am not backing away from the Sulfated Battery (sp?) or cell, but
a bad connection could do the same thing...

Either way if the battery survives the draw down test, it's time to
check the wiring for sure...

Does anyone ever "back down" around here ;-)


Absolutly, in my last post I actually differed to Dick to come in and
verify, or kill my observation..


There is one quick way to eliminate the idea of a bad battery. Turn
the lights on and try to start the boat. If the lights don't dim or go
out completely, you are not closing the circuit to the starter. It is
not a battery.

You can sort this whole thing out with a meter in a couple of minutes
but even a test light would be very helpful.


Also, the ground circuit will heat just like the hot circuit. Same current
amount should be flowing in both circuits. Especially in a Fiberglas boat.


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Default Yamaha 115 2 stroke won't start by key???????

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 14:19:37 -0500, Califbill
wrote:


Also, the ground circuit will heat just like the hot circuit. Same current
amount should be flowing in both circuits. Especially in a Fiberglas boat.


On an outboard, the "ground circuit" is basically the battery cable
from the block to the battery.


Very much as the hot circuit. Loose or corroded connection on either post
of the battery well heat up. Or a broken cable, with only a few strands
making contact. Look at the terminals and see if any discoloration. Or
feel the connections while cranking. Or get a meter and look at the
voltage at the motor while cranking.
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