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#1
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OBDii scanner
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#3
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OBDii scanner
On 7/8/2014 7:57 PM, BAR wrote:
In article , says... On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:45:56 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: I *really* don't trust auto dealers, especially after our local Chevy dealer said I needed to flush my transmission. He'd obviously not read the book. Dealer service departments have become a profit center for dealers, perhaps a bigger part of their bottom line than the sale of cars. The service writers are on commission and the mechanics are rated on production. They have a great incentive to sell services that return a lot of profit. (fast and expensive) I imagine the dealer has one of those transmission flush machines and just like a hospital with an MRI machine, it is not making money if they are not using it so everyone "needs" it.. That's why we go to George's Auto Hospital. The thing about small places is they have to actually find out what's wrong, unlike a dealer who just sends some trained monkey to the parts dept and changes stuff till it fixes it  |
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#4
posted to rec.boats
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OBDii scanner
On 7/8/2014 11:58 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:39:32 -0400, KC wrote: On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the car. In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot colder! The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer. Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the problem in half by swapping glow plug wires. You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad one. I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug. The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho. I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a diaper load Over the years, how many times has the code been right and how many times has it been bogus? 50/50 at best... Maybe you can get a spurious code for an unrelated problem but it is usually fairly accurate, I disagree completely and I worked in a dealership.. Now I don't argue when it's one code it's usually easier but still, most of those codes need to be followed up with a VOM and a diagnostic spreadsheet... Again, I worked for Chevy, I read the books, and went to the schools... soooooo, um, take it for what it's worth. particularly if it is only throwing one code. Noise on the bus can generate anything but that is a clue. If you are seeing random, unrelated codes, there is a good chance none of them are right. At that point you probably want to look at the bus with a scope. The reality is, if the code is bogus, the car is usually going to be running OK. At a certain point you just have to fall back on the skills you used to fix your 56 Chevy. If you have fuel, air, compression and spark, the engine will fire. |
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