Hi Folks,

This one has been bugging me for a while. My drysuit seals always become
extra-dried-out over the winter. I remedy this with judicious care and
spraying heavy amounts of Armor-All to get them flexible again. However,
I'd like to figure out a way so that they didn't get so stiff in the first
place.

Suggestions? Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Best,

Chuck
http://www.wildcountry.info

On 31-May-2004, Charles Pezeshki wrote:

spraying heavy amounts of Armor-All to get them flexible again. However,
I'd like to figure out a way so that they didn't get so stiff in the first
place.

Most suit manufacturers recommend _against_ using Armor-All. 303 Protectant
is the preferred one.

I have a cheap drytop and an expensive drysuit. I dutifully apply 303 to the
neck and wrist seals of the drysuit and ignore the drytop. The latter is
about two years older than the drysuit.

The drysuit latex is showing signs of cracking and wearing out. The drytop
is coming apart at the seams, but the latex is like new. Go figure.

Mike

Quit using armor all. That is the worst thing for vynal or latex. Use
303, a water based preservative. I also store my drysuit in a tightly
sealed black plastic bag. Too many people just hang the suit in a closet
where the oxygen (ozone) in the air can reach it and cause the
deteriation of the seals.

Lynn

Charles Pezeshki wrote:
Hi Folks,

This one has been bugging me for a while. My drysuit seals always become
extra-dried-out over the winter. I remedy this with judicious care and
spraying heavy amounts of Armor-All to get them flexible again. However,
I'd like to figure out a way so that they didn't get so stiff in the first
place.

Suggestions? Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Best,

Chuck
http://www.wildcountry.info

Some folks store their gear in utility rooms near HVAC equipment and some of
this equipment has motors that use brushes and they produce Ozone. (Laser
printers produce it also but most people don't store their gear near them).
Like one of the other posters mentioned - ozone and many of these materials
don't mix. Also as previously stated, ArmorAll's long term effect is to
actually dry out the item if it is not continuously applied. This is
according to an auto upholstery guy I know. So it is his opinion and is only
being passed on as a point to consider.

BTW - I am new to the group and like what I have seen so far.

--

"Lynn Tegrity" wrote in message
news:zkMuc.33332$n_6.10905@attbi_s53...
Quit using armor all. That is the worst thing for vynal or latex. Use
303, a water based preservative. I also store my drysuit in a tightly
sealed black plastic bag. Too many people just hang the suit in a closet
where the oxygen (ozone) in the air can reach it and cause the
deteriation of the seals.

Lynn

Charles Pezeshki wrote:
Hi Folks,

This one has been bugging me for a while. My drysuit seals always
become
extra-dried-out over the winter. I remedy this with judicious care and
spraying heavy amounts of Armor-All to get them flexible again.
However,
I'd like to figure out a way so that they didn't get so stiff in the
first
place.

Suggestions? Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Best,

Chuck
http://www.wildcountry.info

Charles Pezeshki wrote:

Hi Folks,

This one has been bugging me for a while. My drysuit seals always become
extra-dried-out over the winter. I remedy this with judicious care and
spraying heavy amounts of Armor-All to get them flexible again. However,
I'd like to figure out a way so that they didn't get so stiff in the first
place.

Suggestions? Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

In Summary

To extend the life of dry suit seals:

- Take your bottle of Armorall to the nearest trash can and deposit it
there. It's worthless junk that damages more materials than it
preserves, including your car.

- Treat your seals on the outside with 303 Protectant, for protection
against UV.

- Treat the seals on the inside with talcum powder, to make them easier
to put on. That dramatically reduces the stress on them when you don
your dry suit.

- Keep sunscreen off your seals as much as possible. Most will degrade
latex. This is difficult to do with the neck seal, so you can figure on
replacing it every three years or so.

- Rinse your suit after using it in salt water.

- Store your suit in a cool, dry place away from anything that generates
ozone (electric motors, in particular).

Regardless of the level of care you give them, if you use your dry suit
a lot, you can expect to replace the seals every 3-4 years. It's easy to
do and there are repair services if you're not the DIY type.

Your experience with 303 matches my own, and with your input I now believe
that what Brian says below about Armor-all:

"Take your bottle of Armorall to the nearest trash can and deposit it there.
It's worthless junk that damages more materials than it preserves, including
your car."

can be said for 303 as well. I've found that the only use 303 has is to
force the use of more 303; very handy if you sell 303 but just another
consumer-targeted fraud. I've had my present drytop since 2000, have used
nothing on it, never washed it, store it in -50 deg. and expect to replace
the worn-out fabric (G-tx) before the gaskets.

Brian's other comments seem reasonable.

Brad





"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...
On 31-May-2004, Charles Pezeshki wrote:

spraying heavy amounts of Armor-All to get them flexible again.
However,
I'd like to figure out a way so that they didn't get so stiff in the
first
place.

Most suit manufacturers recommend _against_ using Armor-All. 303
Protectant
is the preferred one.

I have a cheap drytop and an expensive drysuit. I dutifully apply 303 to
the
neck and wrist seals of the drysuit and ignore the drytop. The latter is
about two years older than the drysuit.

The drysuit latex is showing signs of cracking and wearing out. The
drytop
is coming apart at the seams, but the latex is like new. Go figure.

Mike

Padeen wrote:
Your experience with 303 matches my own, and with your input I now believe
that what Brian says below about Armor-all:

"Take your bottle of Armorall to the nearest trash can and deposit it there.
It's worthless junk that damages more materials than it preserves, including
your car."

can be said for 303 as well. I've found that the only use 303 has is to
force the use of more 303; very handy if you sell 303 but just another
consumer-targeted fraud. I've had my present drytop since 2000, have used
nothing on it, never washed it, store it in -50 deg. and expect to replace
the worn-out fabric (G-tx) before the gaskets.

Brian's other comments seem reasonable.

FWIW, I use 303 primarily on hatch covers and it seems to work OK. I do
use it occasionally on my dry suit neck seal (the only one exposed to UV
and haven't found any negative effects. I can't say for certain that
it's helped much, but it doesn't seem to have hurt.

Padeen wrote:

"Take your bottle of Armorall to the nearest trash can and deposit it.
It's worthless junk that damages more materials than it preserves,
including your car."

can be said for 303 as well. I've found that the only use 303 has is to
force the use of more 303; very handy if you sell 303 but just another
consumer-targeted fraud. I've had my present drytop since 2000, have used
nothing on it, never washed it, store it in -50 deg. and expect to replace
the worn-out fabric (G-tx) before the gaskets.

I really disagree.

It's easy to see and feel the difference in suppleness after applying 303
to latex gaskets. The latex absorbs a certain amount of 303, causing it to
stretch better and slide more easily over your head and hands.

I agree that 303 is probably useless on anything but latex. Years ago
there was a magazine advertisement showing two PFDs, one treated with 303
and the other not treated, with the latter falling apart from UV damage.
This was supposedly from one treatment! I tried it and my PFD is faded
and the fabric is starting to fray, so I think the advertisement was BS.

Brian Nystrom ) wrote:


: Padeen wrote:
: Your experience with 303 matches my own, and with your input I now believe
: that what Brian says below about Armor-all:
:
: "Take your bottle of Armorall to the nearest trash can and deposit it there.
: It's worthless junk that damages more materials than it preserves, including
: your car."
:
: can be said for 303 as well. I've found that the only use 303 has is to
: force the use of more 303; very handy if you sell 303 but just another
: consumer-targeted fraud. I've had my present drytop since 2000, have used
: nothing on it, never washed it, store it in -50 deg. and expect to replace
: the worn-out fabric (G-tx) before the gaskets.
:
: Brian's other comments seem reasonable.

: FWIW, I use 303 primarily on hatch covers and it seems to work OK. I do
: use it occasionally on my dry suit neck seal (the only one exposed to UV
: and haven't found any negative effects. I can't say for certain that
: it's helped much, but it doesn't seem to have hurt.

I use AquaSeal's "Seal Saver", which is claimed to be specifically
for drysuit gaskets. It seems to keep my gaskets in good shape,
but I haven't used any other products enough to have a baseline
to compare it to. Anyone have any opinion on it?

-Ken

Ken Ferschweiler wrote:

I use AquaSeal's "Seal Saver", which is claimed to be specifically
for drysuit gaskets. It seems to keep my gaskets in good shape,
but I haven't used any other products enough to have a baseline
to compare it to. Anyone have any opinion on it?

I've never used Aquaseal SealSaver, but OS Systems recommends it
for drysuit gaskets, whereas Kokatat recommends 303.