How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?

On 8/7/2011 6:07 PM, wrote:
How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?

Use a sharpened straight putty knife as a wedge between the halves. Once
you see a gap you can use a wide chisel. Don't rush it it will come
apart with minimal scarring. File down the boo boos on the mating surfaces.

On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 18:07:59 -0400, wrote:

How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?


Thanks men

On 8/7/11 6:07 PM, wrote:
How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?


Try a boating discussion board. Rec.Boats is a vehicle for right-wing
trash to whine about President Obama and for those few of us centrists
or slightly left of center here to laugh at the righties.

--
Don't forget to leave a bit of beef for rec.boat's right-wing
conservatrashers and ID spoofers to feed upon. The more they feed, the
quicker rec.boats will fall into the black hole of cyberspace and disappear.

On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:35:36 -0400, "
wrote:

On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 18:07:59 -0400, wrote:

How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?

Try heating just one of the parts, a gas welding torch gives a lot of
heat in a small area. In Des Moines, one supermarket chain has dry ice
in a vending machine for two bucks a pound. Chill and then heat one
half.

Casady

On Aug 9, 9:15*pm, Richard Casady wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:35:36 -0400, "





wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 18:07:59 -0400, wrote:

How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?

Try heating just one of the parts, a gas welding torch gives a lot of
heat in a small area. In Des Moines, one supermarket chain has dry ice
in a vending machine for two bucks a pound. Chill and then heat one
half.

Casady- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Heating is going to ruin the paint.

I have used the putty knife followed with a chisel successfully on i/
o's. Really gop up the steel parts with antisieze when you put it
back together.

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...

On Aug 9, 9:15 pm, Richard Casady wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:35:36 -0400, "





wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 18:07:59 -0400, wrote:

How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?

Try heating just one of the parts, a gas welding torch gives a lot of
heat in a small area. In Des Moines, one supermarket chain has dry ice
in a vending machine for two bucks a pound. Chill and then heat one
half.

Casady- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Heating is going to ruin the paint.

I have used the putty knife followed with a chisel successfully on i/
o's. Really gop up the steel parts with antisieze when you put it
back together.


Reply:
Can be the drive shaft corroded to the power head. May have to cut a hole
in the leg and then cut the shaft. replace shaft and have leg welded.
Also, I had to have the chips in the leg welded on a Mariner 15 that did not
want to come apart and had to pry apart.

On Aug 10, 1:34*pm, "Califbill" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" *wrote in message

....

On Aug 9, 9:15 pm, Richard Casady wrote:





On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:35:36 -0400, "

wrote:
On Sun, 07 Aug 2011 18:07:59 -0400, wrote:

How do I dissolve corrosion between upper and lower outboard unit so
to get at the impeller?

I took all five nuts off (125 mercury sal****er) the studs holding the
lower unit on. I had to use penetrating spray to get the washers off.

After whacking the seam dividing the upper and lower with a rubber
hammer till blue in the face I etched/scored/scratched the seam to
allow penetration spray to work in, nothing.

After 24 hours of repeated spraying whacking and more scoring, the two
halves still won't come apart. Short of pounding in a chisel (gouging
aluminum), and prying them apart, anyone have an idea?

Try heating just one of the parts, a gas welding torch gives a lot of
heat in a small area. In Des Moines, one supermarket chain has dry ice
in a vending machine for two bucks a pound. Chill and then heat one
half.

Casady- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Heating is going to ruin the paint.

I have used the putty knife followed with a chisel successfully on i/
o's. *Really gop up the steel parts with antisieze when you put it
back together.

Reply:
Can *be the drive shaft corroded to the power head. *May have to cut a hole
in the leg and then cut the shaft. *replace shaft and have leg welded.
Also, I had to have the chips in the leg welded on a Mariner 15 that did not
want to come apart and had to pry apart.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

All the ones I have pulled apart that shaft goes through a seal into
the area where there is gear lube. But that's on i/o's. Maybe it's
different on outboards.

On 8/10/2011 3:32 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 10 Aug 2011 11:52:01 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Aug 10, 1:34 pm, wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message


All the ones I have pulled apart that shaft goes through a seal into
the area where there is gear lube. But that's on i/o's. Maybe it's
different on outboards.

I have had outboards be a little cranky but never had to pry one
apart.
Start the nuts a few turns so it won't drop and kick the gear housing
"bullet" on each side. That will rock it and break it loose most of
the time
If it was one of the shafts corroded up you would still have a little
free play. My bet is still the locating pins.

The bolts, if stainless, cause a reaction with the aluminum housing. the
resulting white oxidation wedged tightly in the gap causes the binding.
Grease or never seize will prevent the problem in the future. Wedging
the halves apart is the best solution in stubborn cases

On Wed, 10 Aug 2011 15:46:35 -0400, BeachBum "not a
wrote:

On 8/10/2011 3:32 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 10 Aug 2011 11:52:01 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Aug 10, 1:34 pm, wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message


All the ones I have pulled apart that shaft goes through a seal into
the area where there is gear lube. But that's on i/o's. Maybe it's
different on outboards.

I have had outboards be a little cranky but never had to pry one
apart.
Start the nuts a few turns so it won't drop and kick the gear housing
"bullet" on each side. That will rock it and break it loose most of
the time
If it was one of the shafts corroded up you would still have a little
free play. My bet is still the locating pins.

The bolts, if stainless, cause a reaction with the aluminum housing. the
resulting white oxidation wedged tightly in the gap causes the binding.
Grease or never seize will prevent the problem in the future. Wedging
the halves apart is the best solution in stubborn cases

I can see daylight between the upper and lower now, at last toward the
prop end. I don't think the corrosion where the halves come to gether
so much as in the threaded studs or where the shaft goes into the top
end.

I've been using a chisel at the narrow end, above the prop. That's
where I can see through to the other side. At the risk of gouging the
other end, toward the stern, I may have to gouge it up a bit.

The anti-corrosion spray can only do so much if the shaft is corroded
into the gearing up top. (I don't know the technical jargon).