Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Gary Warner" wrote in message ... ELECTRIC BRAKES + More control over the braking Electric brakes give you the option of reaching down and manually applying just the trailer brakes, which can help stabilize a swaying trailer. A very nice feature for top heavy RV trailers. The disadvantage of electrics is that the amount of braking applied to the trailer is NOT a function of how hard you are stepping on the brake pedal! The controller is sensitive to angle, so you can end up with way too much trailer brakes when going down a steep hill and no brakes when heading up a hill (which I suppose is better than the other way around....). The settings on the contoller is also a function of the trailer's weight. This is not a problem on a RV trailer, which doesn't change its weight very much. You might be a little surprised with the boat trailer on the first stop you make after launching the boat! For having the most appropriate amount of trailer brakes, you can't beat surge. They are self adjusting to trailer weight and allow the tow vehicle to be in control. The one disadvantage is that the trailer can "ride the brakes" when going down a step hill and you are using the engine to hold the speed down. + The brakes work in reverse, which might help at the ramp If they work at all, they would only work if you reached down and manually applied them, stepping on the brake pedal will do nothing. The electic brakes on my RV trailer do NOT work in reverse even when manually applied. The brakes work by having an electromagnet "stick" to the face of the brake drum. The rotation of the drum attempts to drag the magnet with it. The magent is attached to an arm that couples into the brake actuator. In reverse, the rotation of the wheel is the wrong way. I suppose that there are some systems that have the magnet arm rest in a center position, but if you want this feature make sure you get that style. - Might cost more ? Electrics are sure easy to install, especially if you have the appropriate flange on the axel. No matter what, you need to have the brake drums and backing plates. If you were converting an old trailer instead of buying new I would say electric is far cheaper because you don't have to change the tongue. - Can't use in (salt) water (Some people said they use in water without problem. Maybe special/newer models) I would certainly be concerned about the life of the magnets in salt water. - Any tow vehicle has to be wired for it. Most newer SUVs and trucks that come equipped with the factory "tow package" are prewired for the electric brake controls. If yours is one, check under the dash to see if there is a ~6 pin cable/connector tucked up under there. Then look in the glove box to see if the mating connector happens to be there! If not, you can buy the mating connector from anyplace that sells the brake controllers. - Have to have & maintain a backup battery on the trailer to activate the brakes in an emergency separation. On my RV trailer, I just wired it into the house battery. On a boat trailer, you will need to mount this battery in such a place that it won't get ruined by being dunked in the water. You can buy 12 volt dry cells that will last a couple of years and never needs charging. ELECTRIC over HYDRAULIC: This is where the controller is electric but that controlls a hydraulic master cylinder. I never understood this system, it seems like it combines the worst parts of both. If you go with electric brakes, consider the following: The electric brake controller only operates when your brake lights are lit. This means that an electrical failure in your stop light circuit will render your trailer brakes inoperative. The failure could be from either the stop light switch failing or from the fuse blowing. When you connect your boat trailer, you double the load on the brake light circuit. Twice the current that the brake light swtich has to operate on. Twice the current that the fuse has to hold. Add to that the potential that a short can easily develop in the trailer wiring, from such things as the connecting cable dragging on the ground or salt water getting into the lights. In order for the trailer brakes to work you have to have a fairly good electrical connection to the trailer. Ever have trouble getting the connector to work? Ever have to wiggle the connector a little bit before you had both brake and tail lights? Now add the brake circuit to that mix, except it isn't always easy to tell if you have connection, until you need the connection. And just wait until you have had some passenger wonder what that little knob does and plays with it while you were pumping gas! Damn, its embarrasing to have your trailer brakes lock up at the first stop light because some little kid played with the gain control on the brake controller! I have electric brakes on my RV trailer, and surge brakes on my boat trailer. I like them both, where they are. Rod McInnis |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Correct Trailer set up for towing my speedboat. | General |