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Rod McInnis
 
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Default Trailer Brakes: Electric vs Hydraulic-Surge


"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...


ELECTRIC BRAKES
+ More control over the braking


Electric brakes give you the option of reaching down and manually applying
just the trailer brakes, which can help stabilize a swaying trailer. A very
nice feature for top heavy RV trailers.

The disadvantage of electrics is that the amount of braking applied to the
trailer is NOT a function of how hard you are stepping on the brake pedal!
The controller is sensitive to angle, so you can end up with way too much
trailer brakes when going down a steep hill and no brakes when heading up a
hill (which I suppose is better than the other way around....).

The settings on the contoller is also a function of the trailer's weight.
This is not a problem on a RV trailer, which doesn't change its weight very
much. You might be a little surprised with the boat trailer on the first
stop you make after launching the boat!

For having the most appropriate amount of trailer brakes, you can't beat
surge. They are self adjusting to trailer weight and allow the tow vehicle
to be in control. The one disadvantage is that the trailer can "ride the
brakes" when going down a step hill and you are using the engine to hold the
speed down.

+ The brakes work in reverse, which might help at the ramp


If they work at all, they would only work if you reached down and manually
applied them, stepping on the brake pedal will do nothing. The electic
brakes on my RV trailer do NOT work in reverse even when manually applied.
The brakes work by having an electromagnet "stick" to the face of the brake
drum. The rotation of the drum attempts to drag the magnet with it. The
magent is attached to an arm that couples into the brake actuator. In
reverse, the rotation of the wheel is the wrong way. I suppose that there
are some systems that have the magnet arm rest in a center position, but if
you want this feature make sure you get that style.

- Might cost more ?


Electrics are sure easy to install, especially if you have the appropriate
flange on the axel. No matter what, you need to have the brake drums and
backing plates. If you were converting an old trailer instead of buying new
I would say electric is far cheaper because you don't have to change the
tongue.

- Can't use in (salt) water
(Some people said they use in water without problem. Maybe

special/newer
models)


I would certainly be concerned about the life of the magnets in salt
water.

- Any tow vehicle has to be wired for it.


Most newer SUVs and trucks that come equipped with the factory "tow
package" are prewired for the electric brake controls. If yours is one,
check under the dash to see if there is a ~6 pin cable/connector tucked up
under there. Then look in the glove box to see if the mating connector
happens to be there! If not, you can buy the mating connector from anyplace
that sells the brake controllers.

- Have to have & maintain a backup battery on the trailer to activate the
brakes in an emergency separation.


On my RV trailer, I just wired it into the house battery. On a boat
trailer, you will need to mount this battery in such a place that it won't
get ruined by being dunked in the water. You can buy 12 volt dry cells
that will last a couple of years and never needs charging.





ELECTRIC over HYDRAULIC:
This is where the controller is electric but that controlls a hydraulic
master cylinder.


I never understood this system, it seems like it combines the worst parts
of both.




If you go with electric brakes, consider the following:

The electric brake controller only operates when your brake lights are lit.
This means that an electrical failure in your stop light circuit will render
your trailer brakes inoperative. The failure could be from either the stop
light switch failing or from the fuse blowing. When you connect your boat
trailer, you double the load on the brake light circuit. Twice the current
that the brake light swtich has to operate on. Twice the current that the
fuse has to hold. Add to that the potential that a short can easily develop
in the trailer wiring, from such things as the connecting cable dragging on
the ground or salt water getting into the lights.

In order for the trailer brakes to work you have to have a fairly good
electrical connection to the trailer. Ever have trouble getting the
connector to work? Ever have to wiggle the connector a little bit before
you had both brake and tail lights? Now add the brake circuit to that mix,
except it isn't always easy to tell if you have connection, until you need
the connection.

And just wait until you have had some passenger wonder what that little knob
does and plays with it while you were pumping gas! Damn, its embarrasing to
have your trailer brakes lock up at the first stop light because some little
kid played with the gain control on the brake controller!

I have electric brakes on my RV trailer, and surge brakes on my boat
trailer. I like them both, where they are.

Rod McInnis