Boat trailer BS
 

On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 12:30:58 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:02:07 -0400, OmDeFlume wrote:

On 3/24/2011 10:18 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch
wrote:

Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?

Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but
stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a
couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too
after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts.

You can probably buy a box of 100 for the same price as 20 or 30 bought
loose.

That was what I was getting at.

You might want to consider not replying to someone who's so juvi they
have to spoof other people.

Boat trailer BS
 

On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:
On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.
I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and
natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a
sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires
would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route?
If none of this makes sense oh well.

Boat trailer BS
 

Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?

If you have a galvanized trailer, just replace them with hot-dipped
galvanized fasteners. If the existing fasteners can be cleaned up with
a wire brush, buy some cold galvanizing spray paint - $8 at Home Depot -
an re-coat them.

Boat trailer BS
 

Frogwatch wrote:
On Mar 24, 10:18 pm, wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch

wrote:

Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?

Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but
stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a
couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too
after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts.

The leaf springs are also rusting badly, not sure what to do about
them.

That would depend on how bad they are. Surface rust is one thing.
Serious corrosion is a different matter. Surface rust can be
sandblasted and coated.

Boat trailer BS
 

Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.
They won't help much with a trailer.

Boat trailer BS
 

Harryk wrote:
True North wrote:


"Frogwatch" wrote in message
...


On Mar 24, 10:18 pm, wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch

wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?

Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but
stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a
couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too
after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts.

The leaf springs are also rusting badly, not sure what to do about
them.

*******************
By new ones if you're that concerned... they aren't very expensive.


If you wash your trailer after you use it, and maintain it, you'll
have far fewer problems than Froggy seems to have. Maintenance to him
seems to be "ignore it until it breaks."

While I realize this is one of your signature attack posts, there is a
problem with your "advice". People who use their boats often - a
concept that is foreign to you - don't always have the luxury of rinsing
their trailers until they arrive back at the dock or their home. That
leaves a trailer in the sun for hours with sal****er on it after the launch.

Boat trailer BS
 

Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:
On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.
I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and
natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a
sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires
would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route?
If none of this makes sense oh well.
None of that applies if the trailer is out of the water.

Boat trailer BS
 

On Mar 25, 7:55*pm, L G wrote:
Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:
On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.
I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and
natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a
sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires
would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route?
If none of this makes sense oh well.

None of that applies if the trailer is out of the water.

I am really sorta surprised at how much corrosion there is on the
bolts and the springs and much less on the body. I do rinse it after
every use so am not sure why the extreme corrosion. I think the
original bolts were just zinc coated and not really galvanized whereas
the body may have more zinc on it. I will probably replace the
original bolts with hot dipped galvanized so as to minimize dissimilar
metals in contact.

Boat trailer BS
 

"Frogwatch" wrote in message
...

On Mar 24, 10:18 pm, wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch

wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?

Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but
stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a
couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too
after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts.

I ran the white ground wire to each light instead of just to the
trailer body and I hope this will prevent a few probs.

Reply:

I always did that. My EZ-loader had galvanized bolts. Broke the bolt that
holds the back cross member to the side frame one time. Actually after
about 18 years, he wore through. So I would pull those and check them.

Boat trailer BS
 

wrote in message ...

On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:02:07 -0400, OmDeFlume wrote:

On 3/24/2011 10:18 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:57:34 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch
wrote:

Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?

Go to a real fastener place and you might save a few bucks but
stainless is the way to go on a salt water trailer. I started out a
couple bolts at a time as they got nasty but I bit that bullet too
after a few rounds of swapping out rusted bolts.

You can probably buy a box of 100 for the same price as 20 or 30 bought
loose.

That was what I was getting at.


Reply:

Break even point seems to be about 60 pieces on smaller stuff. Maybe 40 on
larger?