On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 01:40:33 -0400, wrote:

It is pretty common to have the silicone gel right in the connector
with underground splices. The mechanical pressure will squeeze it out
of the actual joint but leave the rest of the connector flooded with
silicone.

It is also useful for prelubricating new water pump impellers, a trick
learned from my diesel mechanic. It helps with insertion and also
prevents dry start wear and tear.

On 3/14/2011 10:23 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 01:40:33 -0400, wrote:

It is pretty common to have the silicone gel right in the connector
with underground splices. The mechanical pressure will squeeze it out
of the actual joint but leave the rest of the connector flooded with
silicone.

It is also useful for prelubricating new water pump impellers, a trick
learned from my diesel mechanic. It helps with insertion and also
prevents dry start wear and tear.


Apply the dielectric grease after making the mechanical connection to
insure getting a good connection.

In article , says...

On 3/14/2011 10:23 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 01:40:33 -0400, wrote:

It is pretty common to have the silicone gel right in the connector
with underground splices. The mechanical pressure will squeeze it out
of the actual joint but leave the rest of the connector flooded with
silicone.

It is also useful for prelubricating new water pump impellers, a trick
learned from my diesel mechanic. It helps with insertion and also
prevents dry start wear and tear.


Apply the dielectric grease after making the mechanical connection to
insure getting a good connection.

Has anybody tried any of that liquid electrical tape? I just noticed a
bottle in my electrical box the other day. It seems it could be a real
mess in tight places, but not as bad as trying to wrap tape in close
areas.

On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 11:03:23 -0400, I_am_Tosk
wrote:

Has anybody tried any of that liquid electrical tape? I just noticed a
bottle in my electrical box the other day. It seems it could be a real
mess in tight places, but not as bad as trying to wrap tape in close
areas.

It works OK as a sealer but is messy and hell to get off.

On 3/14/11 11:29 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 11:03:23 -0400, I_am_Tosk
wrote:

Has anybody tried any of that liquid electrical tape? I just noticed a
bottle in my electrical box the other day. It seems it could be a real
mess in tight places, but not as bad as trying to wrap tape in close
areas.

It works OK as a sealer but is messy and hell to get off.


I use that stuff to seal/tidy up the ends of lines I've cut with a hot
knife. I dip the end of the line into the can and then let the line
drape and dry for a day.

In article , payer3389
@mypacks.net says...

On 3/14/11 11:29 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 11:03:23 -0400, I_am_Tosk
wrote:

Has anybody tried any of that liquid electrical tape? I just noticed a
bottle in my electrical box the other day. It seems it could be a real
mess in tight places, but not as bad as trying to wrap tape in close
areas.

It works OK as a sealer but is messy and hell to get off.


I use that stuff to seal/tidy up the ends of lines I've cut with a hot
knife. I dip the end of the line into the can and then let the line
drape and dry for a day.

Why don't you do it the correct way?

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 13:09:54 -0400, HarryisPaul wrote:

In article , payer3389
says...

On 3/14/11 11:29 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 11:03:23 -0400, I_am_Tosk
wrote:

Has anybody tried any of that liquid electrical tape? I just noticed a
bottle in my electrical box the other day. It seems it could be a real
mess in tight places, but not as bad as trying to wrap tape in close
areas.

It works OK as a sealer but is messy and hell to get off.


I use that stuff to seal/tidy up the ends of lines I've cut with a hot
knife. I dip the end of the line into the can and then let the line
drape and dry for a day.

Why don't you do it the correct way?

What are you thinking? A sewn whipping with sail cord or a back
splice? I like the latter.


Back splice, of course! Three strand should do nicely.

On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 14:25:41 -0400, wrote:

What are you thinking? A sewn whipping with sail cord or a back
splice? I like the latter.

A back splice is too bulky in many applications and almost always on
large lines. Sewn whipping followed by a hot knife on the end is the
best in my experience. You can get a hot knife adapter for a
soldering gun which works quite well.

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 11:03:23 -0400, I_am_Tosk
wrote:

Has anybody tried any of that liquid electrical tape? I just noticed a
bottle in my electrical box the other day. It seems it could be a real
mess in tight places, but not as bad as trying to wrap tape in close
areas.

It works OK as a sealer but is messy and hell to get off.

Yeah, I'm still thinkin' my way is easier.. When the system fails, I
replace it front to back for about 30 bucks, 50 if I get them from West
Marine etc...

I can string and solder a new set of lights, even the side markers in
about an hour or so and I am good for another season or two if I am
lucky.

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 11:03:23 -0400, I_am_Tosk
wrote:

In article , says...

On 3/14/2011 10:23 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 01:40:33 -0400, wrote:

It is pretty common to have the silicone gel right in the connector
with underground splices. The mechanical pressure will squeeze it out
of the actual joint but leave the rest of the connector flooded with
silicone.

It is also useful for prelubricating new water pump impellers, a trick
learned from my diesel mechanic. It helps with insertion and also
prevents dry start wear and tear.


Apply the dielectric grease after making the mechanical connection to
insure getting a good connection.

Has anybody tried any of that liquid electrical tape? I just noticed a
bottle in my electrical box the other day. It seems it could be a real
mess in tight places, but not as bad as trying to wrap tape in close
areas.

The guys out on Pine Island swear by it if you coat the soldered joint
and slide heat shrink over it, then shrink it down until the goo
squeezes out. The theory is you start shrinking in the center working
out to force out all the air bubbles and you get a totally sealed
joint.

Sounds like it might be worth a try.