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Harryk January 18th 11 12:15 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 
On 1/18/11 6:58 AM, Jack. wrote:
On Jan 17, 8:24 pm, wrote:
On 1/17/11 7:16 PM, Jack. wrote:





On Jan 17, 6:39 pm, wrote:
"I am Tosk" wrote in l-september.org...


In articlecee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...


On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank. I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was finished.


You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.


Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.


--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - Pain is temporary, Glory is forever!


Reply:
TOTALLY WRONG!!!! Crack the valve about 1/4 turn. Same with all flammable
gas cylinders. O2, Argon etc. that are high pressure and inert have back
seals. You want to be able to turn the tank off quickly if there is a leak
or fire. Take any welding class and you will learn about gas safety.
Propane is a lot safer than a lot of the flammable gas as it is a liquid
under pressure and therefore is at a lot lower pressure in the tank.
Acetylene is a higher pressure in the tank but is in solution in acetone (I
think that is the liquid) as acetylene will self ignite explosively at a
fairly low pressure.


From the Weber website:


Cart Based Models
* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes


As you point out, LP is not the same as acetylene.


Those are the instructions on how to resolve a particular problem, not
the directions for S.O.P.


Do what you want.



I emailed Weber and will post its answer here. I assume Weber will not
offer up incorrect advice on something as critical as avoiding an
explosion or out of control fire.

What you posted, by the way, is what I did when I first fired up the
grill. I assumed one opened the tank valve all the way. It makes sense
to me, since the actual flow of gas to the grill is "regulated" by the
burner controls.

John H[_2_] January 18th 11 01:37 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 
On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 16:16:46 -0800 (PST), "Jack." wrote:

On Jan 17, 6:39*pm, "Califbill" wrote:
"I am Tosk" *wrote in l-september.org...

In article cee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...



On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, Harryk wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank. I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was finished.


You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. *They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.


Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - Pain is temporary, Glory is forever!

Reply:
TOTALLY WRONG!!!! *Crack the valve about 1/4 turn. *Same with all flammable
gas cylinders. *O2, Argon etc. that are high pressure and inert have back
seals. *You want to be able to turn the tank off quickly if there is a leak
or fire. *Take any welding class and you will learn about gas safety.
Propane is a lot safer than a lot of the flammable gas as it is a liquid
under pressure and therefore is at a lot lower pressure in the tank.
Acetylene is a higher pressure in the tank but is in solution in acetone (I
think that is the liquid) as acetylene will self ignite explosively at a
fairly low pressure.


From the Weber website:

Cart Based Models
* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

As you point out, LP is not the same as acetylene.


The Weber folks also add that when turning on the LP tank valve, one should do
so very slowly so the regulator doesn't get overwhelmed. And, the 'several
seconds' wait should be at least 30.

That's what they told me when I couldn't get my grill to do more than just
flutter for a while and then die. Their technique worked. Now, though, I just
leave the LP valve open all the time. Oh, and buy something to protect the gas
line from squirrels. They love that rubber. I've been using one of these for a
few years now. Haven't had any problems after going through two hoses.

http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=149548

Takes a few minutes to install, but lasts forever.

John H[_2_] January 18th 11 01:42 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 
On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 07:15:43 -0500, Harryk wrote:

On 1/18/11 6:58 AM, Jack. wrote:
On Jan 17, 8:24 pm, wrote:
On 1/17/11 7:16 PM, Jack. wrote:





On Jan 17, 6:39 pm, wrote:
"I am Tosk" wrote in l-september.org...

In articlecee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank. I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was finished.

You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.

Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - Pain is temporary, Glory is forever!

Reply:
TOTALLY WRONG!!!! Crack the valve about 1/4 turn. Same with all flammable
gas cylinders. O2, Argon etc. that are high pressure and inert have back
seals. You want to be able to turn the tank off quickly if there is a leak
or fire. Take any welding class and you will learn about gas safety.
Propane is a lot safer than a lot of the flammable gas as it is a liquid
under pressure and therefore is at a lot lower pressure in the tank.
Acetylene is a higher pressure in the tank but is in solution in acetone (I
think that is the liquid) as acetylene will self ignite explosively at a
fairly low pressure.

From the Weber website:

Cart Based Models
* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

As you point out, LP is not the same as acetylene.

Those are the instructions on how to resolve a particular problem, not
the directions for S.O.P.


Do what you want.



I emailed Weber and will post its answer here. I assume Weber will not
offer up incorrect advice on something as critical as avoiding an
explosion or out of control fire.

What you posted, by the way, is what I did when I first fired up the
grill. I assumed one opened the tank valve all the way. It makes sense
to me, since the actual flow of gas to the grill is "regulated" by the
burner controls.


It's regulated by the regulator, the aluminum thingee between the burner
adjustment knob and the hose:

http://tinyurl.com/6xqn9n9

Spoofer January 18th 11 02:06 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 
In article , payer3389
@mypacks.net says...

On 1/18/11 6:58 AM, Jack. wrote:
On Jan 17, 8:24 pm, wrote:
On 1/17/11 7:16 PM, Jack. wrote:





On Jan 17, 6:39 pm, wrote:
"I am Tosk" wrote in l-september.org...

In articlecee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank. I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was finished.

You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.

Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - Pain is temporary, Glory is forever!

Reply:
TOTALLY WRONG!!!! Crack the valve about 1/4 turn. Same with all flammable
gas cylinders. O2, Argon etc. that are high pressure and inert have back
seals. You want to be able to turn the tank off quickly if there is a leak
or fire. Take any welding class and you will learn about gas safety.
Propane is a lot safer than a lot of the flammable gas as it is a liquid
under pressure and therefore is at a lot lower pressure in the tank.
Acetylene is a higher pressure in the tank but is in solution in acetone (I
think that is the liquid) as acetylene will self ignite explosively at a
fairly low pressure.

From the Weber website:

Cart Based Models
* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

As you point out, LP is not the same as acetylene.

Those are the instructions on how to resolve a particular problem, not
the directions for S.O.P.


Do what you want.



I emailed Weber and will post its answer here. I assume Weber will not
offer up incorrect advice on something as critical as avoiding an
explosion or out of control fire.

What you posted, by the way, is what I did when I first fired up the
grill. I assumed one opened the tank valve all the way. It makes sense
to me, since the actual flow of gas to the grill is "regulated" by the
burner controls.


Trouble with that is, Weber doesn't manufacture the valves on the LPG
tanks.

Spoofer January 18th 11 02:07 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 
In article ,
says...

"Jack." wrote in message
...

On Jan 17, 6:39 pm, "Califbill" wrote:
"I am Tosk" wrote in
l-september.org...

In article cee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...



On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, Harryk wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank. I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was
finished.


You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.


Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - Pain is temporary, Glory is forever!

Reply:
TOTALLY WRONG!!!! Crack the valve about 1/4 turn. Same with all
flammable
gas cylinders. O2, Argon etc. that are high pressure and inert have back
seals. You want to be able to turn the tank off quickly if there is a
leak
or fire. Take any welding class and you will learn about gas safety.
Propane is a lot safer than a lot of the flammable gas as it is a liquid
under pressure and therefore is at a lot lower pressure in the tank.
Acetylene is a higher pressure in the tank but is in solution in acetone
(I
think that is the liquid) as acetylene will self ignite explosively at a
fairly low pressure.


From the Weber website:

Cart Based Models
* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

As you point out, LP is not the same as acetylene.


Reply:
Is still a flammable gas. What happens if you get a bad hose, valve, etc.
You want to turn it off quickly. Not making 10 turns on a valve that may be
near the fire.


Also, what would Weber know about the valve, they don't manufacture tank
valves.

Spoofer January 18th 11 02:08 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 
In article , payer3389
@mypacks.net says...

On 1/17/11 6:39 PM, Califbill wrote:
"I am Tosk" wrote in message
...

In article cee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, Harryk wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank. I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was
finished.

You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.


Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.




Arrgh! I guess I'll have to check "the google," since we have
conflicting information here. Maybe I'll just send an email to Weber.


Again, the best to ask would be the company that actually makes the
valve, and that's not Weber.

Ziggy®[_4_] January 18th 11 03:01 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 
"John H" wrote in message ...
On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 07:15:43 -0500, Harryk wrote:

On 1/18/11 6:58 AM, Jack. wrote:
On Jan 17, 8:24 pm, wrote:
On 1/17/11 7:16 PM, Jack. wrote:





On Jan 17, 6:39 pm, wrote:
"I am Tosk" wrote in l-september.org...

In articlecee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank. I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was finished.

You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.

Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - Pain is temporary, Glory is forever!

Reply:
TOTALLY WRONG!!!! Crack the valve about 1/4 turn. Same with all flammable
gas cylinders. O2, Argon etc. that are high pressure and inert have back
seals. You want to be able to turn the tank off quickly if there is a leak
or fire. Take any welding class and you will learn about gas safety.
Propane is a lot safer than a lot of the flammable gas as it is a liquid
under pressure and therefore is at a lot lower pressure in the tank.
Acetylene is a higher pressure in the tank but is in solution in acetone (I
think that is the liquid) as acetylene will self ignite explosively at a
fairly low pressure.

From the Weber website:

Cart Based Models
* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

As you point out, LP is not the same as acetylene.

Those are the instructions on how to resolve a particular problem, not
the directions for S.O.P.

Do what you want.



I emailed Weber and will post its answer here. I assume Weber will not
offer up incorrect advice on something as critical as avoiding an
explosion or out of control fire.

What you posted, by the way, is what I did when I first fired up the
grill. I assumed one opened the tank valve all the way. It makes sense
to me, since the actual flow of gas to the grill is "regulated" by the
burner controls.


It's regulated by the regulator, the aluminum thingee between the burner
adjustment knob and the hose:

http://tinyurl.com/6xqn9n9



You're both right.

--
Ziggy®

YukonBound January 18th 11 05:04 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 


"Harryk" wrote in message
m...
On 1/18/11 6:58 AM, Jack. wrote:
On Jan 17, 8:24 pm, wrote:
On 1/17/11 7:16 PM, Jack. wrote:





On Jan 17, 6:39 pm, wrote:
"I am Tosk" wrote in
l-september.org...

In articlecee50221-872b-450d-a446-9c59166b96d2@
29g2000yqq.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jan 16, 1:26 pm, wrote:
The manual is silent on how much you open the gas valve on the tank.
I
opened it all the way and then shut it off when the "test" was
finished.

You should always open the valve all the way on an LP tank. They are
designed with a "back-seat", which seals the valve stem when openend.
If you partially open it, gas can leak from the stem.

Wow, I did not know that.. I never seat anything unless I need to.

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - Pain is temporary, Glory is forever!

Reply:
TOTALLY WRONG!!!! Crack the valve about 1/4 turn. Same with all
flammable
gas cylinders. O2, Argon etc. that are high pressure and inert have
back
seals. You want to be able to turn the tank off quickly if there is a
leak
or fire. Take any welding class and you will learn about gas safety.
Propane is a lot safer than a lot of the flammable gas as it is a
liquid
under pressure and therefore is at a lot lower pressure in the tank.
Acetylene is a higher pressure in the tank but is in solution in
acetone (I
think that is the liquid) as acetylene will self ignite explosively at
a
fairly low pressure.

From the Weber website:

Cart Based Models
* Close the LP tank valve
* Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
* Open the grill lid
* Turn the LP tank valve until it is completely open
* Wait several seconds
* Turn the front burner to the HI/Start position
* Press the igniter until the burner is lit.
* Turn remaining burners to High
* Close the lid.
* The grill should preheat to 500-550 degrees in 10-15 minutes

As you point out, LP is not the same as acetylene.

Those are the instructions on how to resolve a particular problem, not
the directions for S.O.P.


Do what you want.



I emailed Weber and will post its answer here. I assume Weber will not
offer up incorrect advice on something as critical as avoiding an
explosion or out of control fire.

What you posted, by the way, is what I did when I first fired up the
grill. I assumed one opened the tank valve all the way. It makes sense to
me, since the actual flow of gas to the grill is "regulated" by the burner
controls.


That's what I always do...open the tank valve all the way and close it
tightly after using and things have cooled down.


YukonBound January 18th 11 05:06 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 


"Spoofer" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Jan 16, 1:14 pm, "MMC" wrote:
"Frogwatch" wrote in message

...

I know the weather is bad for most of you and I know how much "cabin
fever" can make me "on edge" too. So, all you flamers, GO OUTSIDE,
even if it is ice fishing. Go skiing or snowshoeing, but get outside
for a couple of hours. Then come back and we'll talk boats.

=======

I've been working on my old Morgan 24. Got all the old rotted teak off
and
have sanded about 30% in preparation for painting. Bought a gallon of
epoxy
primer (man has that crap gotten expensive!) to go along with the 3
quart
kits of Interlux Interthane plus I had on the shelf. Gelcoat is very
bad
shape and that's why I went with the epoxy primer.
Got a couple new Beckson opening ports for the v-berth and will
install
after the paint dries.
Decks and house will be Hatteras Off White and the hull a dark green
(have
picked out a paint yet for this, probably go with Brightside).
Replacing the old teak with "Azek" fake lumber. About one 20th the
cost
of
teak, easy to work with and no sanding and varnishing later. I've made
the
new hand rails and the look pretty good.
All outside stuff and you're right, being stuck inside makes people
mean
as
snakes.

That's one reason I've been cutting firewood. running a chainsaw, weed-
eater or push lawnmower is good therapy for me. Beats knocking
somebody up the side of the head...


Yeah but... there are half a dozen or so posters here who really need
your
head knocking services.
It would be for their own good so it could qualify as a charitable
service.


Another stupid reply from Don.


Case in point.............................


YukonBound January 18th 11 05:07 PM

I suspect "cabin fever" is to blame
 


"Califbill" wrote in message
m...
"YukonBound" wrote in message
...



"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Jan 16, 1:14 pm, "MMC" wrote:
"Frogwatch" wrote in message

...

I know the weather is bad for most of you and I know how much "cabin
fever" can make me "on edge" too. So, all you flamers, GO OUTSIDE,
even if it is ice fishing. Go skiing or snowshoeing, but get outside
for a couple of hours. Then come back and we'll talk boats.

=======

I've been working on my old Morgan 24. Got all the old rotted teak off
and
have sanded about 30% in preparation for painting. Bought a gallon of
epoxy
primer (man has that crap gotten expensive!) to go along with the 3
quart
kits of Interlux Interthane plus I had on the shelf. Gelcoat is very bad
shape and that's why I went with the epoxy primer.
Got a couple new Beckson opening ports for the v-berth and will install
after the paint dries.
Decks and house will be Hatteras Off White and the hull a dark green
(have
picked out a paint yet for this, probably go with Brightside).
Replacing the old teak with "Azek" fake lumber. About one 20th the cost
of
teak, easy to work with and no sanding and varnishing later. I've made
the
new hand rails and the look pretty good.
All outside stuff and you're right, being stuck inside makes people mean
as
snakes.


That's one reason I've been cutting firewood. running a chainsaw, weed-
eater or push lawnmower is good therapy for me. Beats knocking
somebody up the side of the head...


Yeah but... there are half a dozen or so posters here who really need your
head knocking services.
It would be for their own good so it could qualify as a charitable
service.


Reply:
Asshole!


Ah, Kalif Swill awakens from another drunken stupor..............



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