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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.
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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400, Larry
wrote:

bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.


i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes
aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post
to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the
stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws
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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400,
wrote:


bpuharic wrote:

coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible


How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes
aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post
to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the
stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws

Do you think you have rotting wood around the holes? Epoxy will only
help if the substrate around it is sound.
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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:09:49 -0400, Larry
wrote:

bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400,
wrote:


bpuharic wrote:

coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible


How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes
aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post
to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the
stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws

Do you think you have rotting wood around the holes? Epoxy will only
help if the substrate around it is sound.


no, i think the substrate is sound. it's just the force of the
collision with the piling lifted the railing away from the deck. the
piling got under the rail when the boat got pushed into it by the
wind. so the deck is sound

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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:09:49 -0400,
wrote:


bpuharic wrote:

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400,
wrote:



bpuharic wrote:


coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible



How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.


i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes
aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post
to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the
stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws


Do you think you have rotting wood around the holes? Epoxy will only
help if the substrate around it is sound.

no, i think the substrate is sound. it's just the force of the
collision with the piling lifted the railing away from the deck. the
piling got under the rail when the boat got pushed into it by the
wind. so the deck is sound


In that case, a good epoxy will be fine.


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Jim Jim is offline
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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.



Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=8lwkxs
I'd use one the press-fit SS. Spiral looks good for this.
They go to 3/8" internal, which is probably a stronger bolt than you
have on the Tolly.
Are the old ones 1/4"?

Tape your drill bit to get the selected depth to set the insert flush
with deck.
Drill holes 1/16" oversize to allow for epoxy.
Test each hole depth by dropping in the insert dry.
Then epoxy the insert and tap in. Let the epoxy cure.
Dope up the bolts well with a hearty teflon paste.
For 3/8" 16tpi 18-8 stainless torque to 236 inch pounds.
If you're using different bolts, look here for the spec,
http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque3.htm

Don't even worry about wet vs dry torque.
Doesn't matter.
If you're competent with fasteners, you don't need a torque wrench for
this, but I don't know much about you - except that you seem to be a
middle-class type guy.
If the boat ever shakes the bolts loose replace the teflon with Loctite
Threadlocker Blue 242.

Put a light bead of silicone caulk around the outer edges of the
stanchion base before you bolt it in. Wipe away excess after the
stanchion is tight. Wipe ALL excess - it's not paintable
This is purely to seal salt away from the inserts.
Don't even think about using any 3M 42-5200.
The stanchion is held mechanically to the deck by the bolts/inserts.

You might find some inserts locally.
West Marine carries Fasco inserts. Cost way too much.
Give some thought to what you're doing and don't go off half-cocked.
Saves time in the end.

Jim - If you do the job, do it right. Your life might count on it.



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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

On Aug 28, 9:54*pm, Jim wrote:

Don't even think about using any 3M 42-5200.


Jim have you had bad experience with 5200 ?

Den 48YF www.densnet.net

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den wrote:
On Aug 28, 9:54 pm, Jim wrote:

Don't even think about using any 3M 42-5200.


Jim have you had bad experience with 5200 ?

Den 48YF www.densnet.net


No. It's good for gluing down consoles, rod holders, etc.
It's a good thing when you can avoid drilling fastener holes in the hull.
But it doesn't come loose. Has to be cut and sanded off.
Not meant for setting stanchions, where the bolts/screws provide the
strength.

Jim - Rough up a slick plastic. Makes a better bond with the 5200.


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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.



Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.


thanks jim, looks like an interesting option
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Jim Jim is offline
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Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.


Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.


thanks jim, looks like an interesting option


Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.





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