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? for those with older trailers
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote: On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote: On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would change on both sides. It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would break the first time you hit a bump. Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent it back over time. No. See above. Really? Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor jack. You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it any. Even if I do this for cummulative months? Consider buildings, water towers, bridges. They are loaded initially, and bend at that time. They then stay elastically bent forever, without any permanent deformation. Things are not designed so weak that they are loaded too near the breaking point and take up a permanent set, creep is a word for it. Something like an axle will break the first time you hit a bump if it has already been loaded to the yield point just sitting there. To digress, brittle materials cannot be permanently bent. That is what brittle means. Those Roman stacked masonry arcades with the aquaducts on top that are still standing after a couple of thousand years are a good example. They have not shown any signs of slumping. Casady |
? for those with older trailers
On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 03:35:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote: On Jul 8, 1:39*am, "Bill McKee" wrote: "jamesgangnc" wrote in message ... On Jul 7, 12:28 pm, I am Tosk wrote: In article , says... On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened" theory doesn't hold water. Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction. In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the metal is stressed? Or was stressed? I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's an interesting question. Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is* weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is water... -- Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. *Since it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight. I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3 degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. *A difference that makes no difference is no difference. *Or by your analogy a teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. *A new axle is $300. *Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very good solution. Last axle I bought from Century Rim and Wheel was only $298 with new disk brakes and calipers installed.http://www.championtrailers.com/spdlubax.htmlHas axles in the $200 range. And they are the Dexter Spindle Lube axles. *Easy to grease.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I like champion. I've used them before. And my axle is $240 from them. Plus shipping, the extra $15 handling, and then you're getting to the $300. OK, you wouldn't want to weld on your axle. But, would attaching a couple pieces of strong angle iron with bolts and nuts add a lot of strength to your axle? Seems to me you could do so relatively cheaply. -- John H All decisions are the result of binary thinking. |
? for those with older trailers
Does galvanized welding really exist or are you referring to an axle galvanized after it was welded? Welding temperatures are higher than the melting point of zinc, and zinc is consumed or highly altered during any welding process. It also produces toxic fumes that cause weld fume fever. Galvanizing is done after welding, either on virgin metal, or a redip after welding repairs. Zinc melts at 419.5, and iron at 1535. Steel is iron with other elements added, and can be heated to over 2,000 degrees for tempering purposes. At that temperature, the zinc would be burned off, or assimilated into the metal. Steve, an old welder visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book |
? for those with older trailers
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? for those with older trailers
On Jul 8, 9:10*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote: On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would change on both sides. It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would break the first time you hit a bump. Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent it back over time. No. See above. Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months? Consider buildings, water towers, bridges. They are loaded initially, and bend at that time. They then stay elastically bent forever, without any permanent deformation. Things are not designed so weak that they are loaded too near the breaking point and take up a permanent set, creep is a word for it. Something like an axle will break the first time you hit a bump if it has already been loaded to the yield point just sitting there. To digress, brittle materials cannot be permanently bent. That is what brittle means. Those Roman stacked masonry arcades with the aquaducts on top that are still standing after a couple of thousand years are a good example. They have not shown any signs of slumping. Casady- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You're full of crap. |
? for those with older trailers
Steve B wrote:
Does galvanized welding really exist or are you referring to an axle galvanized after it was welded? Welding temperatures are higher than the melting point of zinc, and zinc is consumed or highly altered during any welding process. It also produces toxic fumes that cause weld fume fever. Galvanizing is done after welding, either on virgin metal, or a redip after welding repairs. Zinc melts at 419.5, and iron at 1535. Steel is iron with other elements added, and can be heated to over 2,000 degrees for tempering purposes. At that temperature, the zinc would be burned off, or assimilated into the metal. Steve, an old welder visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book That what I thought. So why not grind the area clean, weld it, and spray it with cold galvanizing paint? |
? for those with older trailers
On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:22:31 -0400, wrote:
http://www.industrialmarine.com/ They have a good selection of hardware also - galvanized, stainless, and maybe some bronze as I recall. They also sell very handy "briefcase" style tool kits at a good price. The amount of stuff in their back room is enormous. Yup, been there many times but they are expensive. But also somewhat negotiable. I'm not shy about that and usually get a decent discount if I'm buying a bunch of stuff, much cheaper than WM in any case. |
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