? for those with older trailers
 

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?


your on the right track, but it might be time for a new axel.

http://www.easternmarine.com/3500-lb...Trailer-Axles/

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 6, 1:44*pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. *I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. *I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. *So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. *Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. *Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. *Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

and you could rotate the axle upside down for more camber if its bowing the
wrong way.

? for those with older trailers
 

In article 9f5590b4-0343-4def-b38e-
, says...

On Jul 6, 1:44*pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. *I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. *I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. *So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. *Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. *Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. *Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Well, my buds trailer has a pretty good positive camber and from what he
said, it's by design, could be the case with you. As to "suspension"
it's really more about how it performes really. If you have no tracking
or wandering/control problems with the rig, leave it alone, maybe switch
the tires around if they are not directional. Unless you find it's
waaaaay out of spec for some reason, I would consider the price of tires
every few years, a cheap price to pay for a rig you can trust behind
your hauler... Just my .02

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 6, 2:06*pm, "Happy" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. *I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. *I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. *So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. *Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. *Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. *Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

and you could rotate the axle upside down for more camber if its bowing the
wrong way.

Unfortunately my axle is not symetrical, the spindles are welded on
top of it. I wish it was though, I first thought the same thing!

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 6, 2:30*pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:





"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

....

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. *Both sides wore out
on the inside. *But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? *And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do they "bend" an axle?

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 6, 2:06 pm, "Happy" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

and you could rotate the axle upside down for more camber if its bowing
the
wrong way.

Unfortunately my axle is not symetrical, the spindles are welded on
top of it. I wish it was though, I first thought the same thing!

Lay a straight edge across the top of the axle. A 4' level should do. You
ought to be able to tell if it's bowed up a little.

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 6, 2:30 pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:





"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending
the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make
a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be
stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is
camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do they "bend" an axle?

With an axle bending tool of course.

? for those with older trailers
 

Happy wrote:

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?


your on the right track, but it might be time for a new axel.

http://www.easternmarine.com/3500-lb...Trailer-Axles/
Here's another place that's been around for a long time:

http://www.championtrailers.com/SUB_AXLES.htm

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 6, 2:30 pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:





"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending
the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make
a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be
stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is
camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do they "bend" an axle?

Brute force. :) You can check camber with a framing square on flat
ground.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 1:42*am, "Bill McKee" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 2:30 pm, "Harold" wrote:





"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

....

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending
the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make
a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be
stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is
camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do they "bend" an axle?

Brute force. *:) *You can check camber with a framing square on flat
ground.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time. Also seems that it would be better to store over
the winter with jack stands under the frame.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Also seems that it would be better to store over the winter with jack stands.

Easier on tires. THe steel doesn't care.

Casady

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.



Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.


Really? Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. Even if I do this for cummulative months?

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 10:37*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, you don't understand. It only flexes up when I put a floor jack
under the center of the axle and jack it up till it's trying to lift
the whole thing off the ground. It's only a 2" square tube axle with
a 19' V8 boat on the trailer. 2" square axles can be used up to
3500lbs. The axle between the springs normally doesn't have any
significant load. The load is all on the last 4" from the springs to
the spindle.

I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

? for those with older trailers
 

In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.



Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.


Really? Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.

Hummmm, wonder if it's actually the original axle? Could have been
damaged and he did mention a different setup on the spindles welding or
something like that..

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

In article 6ff46d9b-d811-4174-ae40-ed87d596d354
@z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jul 7, 10:37*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, you don't understand. It only flexes up when I put a floor jack
under the center of the axle and jack it up till it's trying to lift
the whole thing off the ground. It's only a 2" square tube axle with
a 19' V8 boat on the trailer. 2" square axles can be used up to
3500lbs. The axle between the springs normally doesn't have any
significant load. The load is all on the last 4" from the springs to
the spindle.

I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

If it does go back it will have been bent in two directions and the
metal will be weakened at the bend point and will soon bend again. Three
options stand out.
Get a new Axel
weld support into old axle once it is in place.
Leave the bend in the middle and do two proper bends in a "unbent" area
further out from the middle of the axle on each side...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 12:02*pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article 6ff46d9b-d811-4174-ae40-ed87d596d354
@z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says...







On Jul 7, 10:37*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, you don't understand. *It only flexes up when I put a floor jack
under the center of the axle and jack it up till it's trying to lift
the whole thing off the ground. *It's only a 2" square tube axle with
a 19' V8 boat on the trailer. *2" square axles can be used up to
3500lbs. *The axle between the springs normally doesn't have any
significant load. *The load is all on the last 4" from the springs to
the spindle.

I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. *Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

If it does go back it will have been bent in two directions and the
metal will be weakened at the bend point and will soon bend again. Three
options stand out.
Get a new Axel
weld support into old axle once it is in place.
Leave the bend in the middle and do two proper bends in a "unbent" area
further out from the middle of the axle on each side...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 11:46*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:18:46 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. *Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

Ah - I get it - you're right, I misunderstood what you said.

Gotta wonder though if, and I think this is what you were getting at,
it's bent in the other direction. *Have you put put a straight edge on
it - like, say a carpenter or mason's level on the axel?

Since the tires wore out on the insides equally it would seem that the
camber is negative. Since it's 20 years old and has sat on the tires
with a boat on it that whole time I'm thinking it developed that
negative camber slowly over time due to the load. At first I though
maybe my springs were rusted together increasing the load but I
loosened one and the leafs are free.

? for those with older trailers
 

In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction.

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 12:28*pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article ,
says...







On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. *I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. *So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. *I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. *Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. *Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. *So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction. *

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? *Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. *It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. A new
axle is $300. Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

? for those with older trailers
 

In article 3f5d6d9a-cff0-42d5-84f7-
,
says...

On Jul 7, 12:28*pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article ,
says...







On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. *I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. *So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. *I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. *Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. *Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. *So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction. *

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? *Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. *It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. A new
axle is $300. Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

Well, I'ss just tryin' ta' be helpful ya' know...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 1:07*pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article 3f5d6d9a-cff0-42d5-84f7-
,
says...







On Jul 7, 12:28 pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction.

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. *Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. *A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. *Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. *A new
axle is $300. *Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

Well, I'ss just tryin' ta' be helpful ya' know...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm really looking for others that have experienced this. And what
they did about it if anything. I occasionally have seen other
trailers going down the road with tires visibly bent inward at the
top. Never gave any of it much thought until my tires wore out on the
inside only. Then a friend mentioned the same thing happened to him.
He just got new tires. He didn't do anything else.

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 7, 11:46 am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:18:46 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

Ah - I get it - you're right, I misunderstood what you said.

Gotta wonder though if, and I think this is what you were getting at,
it's bent in the other direction. Have you put put a straight edge on
it - like, say a carpenter or mason's level on the axel?

Since the tires wore out on the insides equally it would seem that the
camber is negative. Since it's 20 years old and has sat on the tires
with a boat on it that whole time I'm thinking it developed that
negative camber slowly over time due to the load. At first I though
maybe my springs were rusted together increasing the load but I
loosened one and the leafs are free.

Here's a bit of experience I had with Dexter Axle.
I bought an axle that had no camber and no toe.
Sent that one back and got a new one with good camber but had toe out.
Third axle was the charm It had acceptable camber and toe in.
Conclusion: Even reputable mfrs. don't always get it right the first time.

You should find out for yourself if your axle has a bend problem. If it
does, contact a axle/spring/frame shop and see if they will fix it for you.
Ask them if the bend process weakens the axle. Maybe it needs to be re
hardened after bending. The frame shop will know.

? for those with older trailers
 

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 7, 12:28 pm, I am wrote:

In ,
says...








On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:


It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.


Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction.


In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? Or was stressed?


I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. A new
axle is $300. Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

Does galvanized welding really exist or are you referring to an axle
galvanized after it was welded?

? for those with older trailers
 

In article 25a745b3-e4fc-463e-bdc9-90830d5b6051
@b4g2000pra.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jul 7, 1:07*pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article 3f5d6d9a-cff0-42d5-84f7-
,
says...







On Jul 7, 12:28 pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction.

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. *Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. *A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. *Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. *A new
axle is $300. *Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

Well, I'ss just tryin' ta' be helpful ya' know...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm really looking for others that have experienced this. And what
they did about it if anything. I occasionally have seen other
trailers going down the road with tires visibly bent inward at the
top. Never gave any of it much thought until my tires wore out on the
inside only. Then a friend mentioned the same thing happened to him.
He just got new tires. He didn't do anything else.

Well, if you look back at my first answer I suggested that if you are
not having any handling problems which you seem to indicate you haven't,
I might just leave it alone, swap tire sides here and there, and buy new
tires every couple years as needed.... I noted that my buds' trailer is
way negative on the camber and he leaves it alone as it rides great,
never sways, etc... Tires are a cheap insurance policy if the rig tows
right... Just sayin'...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 8, 1:39*am, "Bill McKee" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 7, 12:28 pm, I am Tosk wrote:





In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction.

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. *Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. *A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. *Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. *A new
axle is $300. *Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

Last axle I bought from Century Rim and Wheel was only $298 with new disk
brakes and calipers installed.http://www.championtrailers.com/spdlubax.htmlHas axles in the $200 range.
And they are the Dexter Spindle Lube axles. *Easy to grease.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, I like champion. I've used them before. And my axle is $240
from them. Plus shipping, the extra $15 handling, and then you're
getting to the $300.

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 7, 1:07 pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article 3f5d6d9a-cff0-42d5-84f7-
,
says...







On Jul 7, 12:28 pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across
the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at
any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take
it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction.

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I
was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting
it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it
*is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. A new
axle is $300. Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

Well, I'ss just tryin' ta' be helpful ya' know...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm really looking for others that have experienced this. And what
they did about it if anything. I occasionally have seen other
trailers going down the road with tires visibly bent inward at the
top. Never gave any of it much thought until my tires wore out on the
inside only. Then a friend mentioned the same thing happened to him.
He just got new tires. He didn't do anything else.

I had a sailboat with the old original 1986 trailer.
The trailer was rated at 1200 lbs, which is what the boat hull was supposed
to weigh leaving the factory.
Later found that my boat actually weighed just over 1700 lbs.
In my case...it was the tongue that had developed a downward facing bow.
If you know what the rig weighed new, I'd take it to a weigh station and see
what it weighs now.
Is that trailer up to the load after long service?

? for those with older trailers
 

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.



Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.


Really? Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Consider buildings, water towers, bridges. They are loaded initially,
and bend at that time. They then stay elastically bent forever,
without any permanent deformation. Things are not designed so weak
that they are loaded too near the breaking point and take up a
permanent set, creep is a word for it. Something like an axle will
break the first time you hit a bump if it has already been loaded to
the yield point just sitting there. To digress, brittle materials
cannot be permanently bent. That is what brittle means. Those Roman
stacked masonry arcades with the aquaducts on top that are still
standing after a couple of thousand years are a good example. They
have not shown any signs of slumping.

Casady

? for those with older trailers
 

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 03:35:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Jul 8, 1:39*am, "Bill McKee" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 7, 12:28 pm, I am Tosk wrote:





In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:10:05 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.

Well, to tell the truth, I've never had a trailer for 20 years so I
suppose I'm not totally qualified to comment, but after that long a
period of time it might have taken a "set" in one direction.

In any case, if it is "stretched" that wouldn't that mean that the
metal is stressed? Or was stressed?

I'm just trying to learn here, not object to the observations. It's
an interesting question.

Maybe you will get a different answer but when I suggested such, I was
told my argument "didn't hold water". I am assuming he is suggesting it
doesn't hold enough water to matter, but if the metal stretched, it *is*
weakened, even if only a little. Teaspoon, Gallon, Ocean, water is
water...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll give you that theoretically it is stretched and weakened. *Since
it's not visibly bent it would only be a few degrees out of straight.
I'm not going to try to calculate the difference in length from the
top to the bottom of a 90" by 2" rectange whos long sides are 3
degrees out of true but I'm guessing it is pretty small. *A difference
that makes no difference is no difference. *Or by your analogy a
teaspoon of water in your bilge isn't going to change anything. *A new
axle is $300. *Since it's galvanized welding on it would not be a very
good solution.

Last axle I bought from Century Rim and Wheel was only $298 with new disk
brakes and calipers installed.http://www.championtrailers.com/spdlubax.htmlHas axles in the $200 range.
And they are the Dexter Spindle Lube axles. *Easy to grease.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, I like champion. I've used them before. And my axle is $240
from them. Plus shipping, the extra $15 handling, and then you're
getting to the $300.

OK, you wouldn't want to weld on your axle. But, would attaching a couple pieces
of strong angle iron with bolts and nuts add a lot of strength to your axle?
Seems to me you could do so relatively cheaply.
--
John H

All decisions are the result of binary thinking.

? for those with older trailers
 

Does galvanized welding really exist or are you referring to an axle
galvanized after it was welded?

Welding temperatures are higher than the melting point of zinc, and zinc is
consumed or highly altered during any welding process. It also produces
toxic fumes that cause weld fume fever. Galvanizing is done after welding,
either on virgin metal, or a redip after welding repairs.

Zinc melts at 419.5, and iron at 1535. Steel is iron with other elements
added, and can be heated to over 2,000 degrees for tempering purposes. At
that temperature, the zinc would be burned off, or assimilated into the
metal.

Steve, an old welder

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book

? for those with older trailers
 

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 11:51:53 -0400, wrote:

I had an axle made up at the local trailer
builder here (Action Trailer on Crystal for Wayne).

Thanks, that's good to know although I've been trailerless for several
years now.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 13:07:36 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 12:14:56 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 11:51:53 -0400, wrote:

I had an axle made up at the local trailer
builder here (Action Trailer on Crystal for Wayne).

Thanks, that's good to know although I've been trailerless for several
years now.

They are actually on the service road north of Crystal, East end but
it is a great resource for all sorts of hot dipped galvanized hardware
at a good price. It is a whole lot cheaper than the "dock/boat lift"
store
They are pretty good about letting you graze through the bins and
collecting a bag of bolts, washers, plates or whatever. Then you take
it to the office and pay. They like cash. ;-)

I assume you know about this place on Hanson Street?

http://www.industrialmarine.com/

They have a good selection of hardware also - galvanized, stainless,
and maybe some bronze as I recall. They also sell very handy
"briefcase" style tool kits at a good price. The amount of stuff in
their back room is enormous.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 8, 9:10*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Consider buildings, water towers, bridges. They are loaded initially,
and bend at that time. They then stay elastically bent forever,
without any permanent deformation. Things are not designed so weak
that they are loaded too near the breaking point and take up a
permanent set, creep is a word for it. Something like an axle will
break the first time you hit a bump if it has already been loaded to
the yield point just sitting there. To digress, brittle materials
cannot be permanently bent. That is what brittle means. Those Roman
stacked masonry arcades with the aquaducts on top that are still
standing after a couple of thousand years are a good example. They
have not shown any signs of slumping.

Casady- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You're full of crap.

? for those with older trailers
 

Steve B wrote:

Does galvanized welding really exist or are you referring to an axle
galvanized after it was welded?

Welding temperatures are higher than the melting point of zinc, and zinc is
consumed or highly altered during any welding process. It also produces
toxic fumes that cause weld fume fever. Galvanizing is done after welding,
either on virgin metal, or a redip after welding repairs.

Zinc melts at 419.5, and iron at 1535. Steel is iron with other elements
added, and can be heated to over 2,000 degrees for tempering purposes. At
that temperature, the zinc would be burned off, or assimilated into the
metal.

Steve, an old welder

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book




That what I thought. So why not grind the area clean, weld it, and
spray it with cold galvanizing paint?

? for those with older trailers
 

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:22:31 -0400, wrote:

http://www.industrialmarine.com/

They have a good selection of hardware also - galvanized, stainless,
and maybe some bronze as I recall. They also sell very handy
"briefcase" style tool kits at a good price. The amount of stuff in
their back room is enormous.

Yup, been there many times but they are expensive.

But also somewhat negotiable.

I'm not shy about that and usually get a decent discount if I'm buying
a bunch of stuff, much cheaper than WM in any case.