? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 6, 2:30 pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:





"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending
the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make
a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be
stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is
camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do they "bend" an axle?

With an axle bending tool of course.

? for those with older trailers
 

Happy wrote:

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?


your on the right track, but it might be time for a new axel.

http://www.easternmarine.com/3500-lb...Trailer-Axles/
Here's another place that's been around for a long time:

http://www.championtrailers.com/SUB_AXLES.htm

? for those with older trailers
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 6, 2:30 pm, "Harold" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:





"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending
the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make
a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be
stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is
camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do they "bend" an axle?

Brute force. :) You can check camber with a framing square on flat
ground.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 1:42*am, "Bill McKee" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 2:30 pm, "Harold" wrote:





"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...
On Jul 6, 1:44 pm, "Harold" wrote:

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

....

My last set of tires wore away completely on the insides long before
the rest of the tread was gone. I was talking to one of my buddies
and he had the same problem. I'm thinking the axle develops a bow in
it. So earlier this spring I left the floor jack under the middle of
it with it jacked up some. Too early to tell if the new tires are
wearing the same or not. Can't measure the distance between them at
the top and bottom cause the street and the boat are in the way so I
don't know if the camber is ok now or not. Anyone else have this
problem and do any investigating?

4 things to check

1 tires- Carlisles are junk. Goodyear Marathons seem to be pretty good
2 camber- Slight negative camber is good (slight upward bend in axle)
3 toe- A little toe in is good. Toe out scrubbs inside of tires and may
cause wandering.
4 tracking- axle is perpendicular to direction of travel

You can measure or observe all of these conditions.

I'm thinking my wear pattern rules out 1 and 4. Both sides wore out
on the inside. But more importantly I have a 2" square tube axle so
how do I change 2 or 3 if that might be my problem? And I can't say
that I have been bothered by any wandering.

Camber and toe in are best adjusted by an axle shop. It requires bending
the
axle.
You can check by raising the tires off the ground spin the tires and make
a
scribe mark on the treads all the way around. The scribe must be
stationary
while you are doing this.

Measure the distance between marks top and bottom. The difference is
camber.
Measure the distance between marks front and back. The distance is toe.
0 to 1/4in is good for toe in. I'm not exactly sure about camber but there
should be some negative camber.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How do they "bend" an axle?

Brute force. *:) *You can check camber with a framing square on flat
ground.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time. Also seems that it would be better to store over
the winter with jack stands under the frame.

? for those with older trailers
 

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Also seems that it would be better to store over the winter with jack stands.

Easier on tires. THe steel doesn't care.

Casady

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.



Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.


Really? Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. Even if I do this for cummulative months?

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 10:37*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, you don't understand. It only flexes up when I put a floor jack
under the center of the axle and jack it up till it's trying to lift
the whole thing off the ground. It's only a 2" square tube axle with
a 19' V8 boat on the trailer. 2" square axles can be used up to
3500lbs. The axle between the springs normally doesn't have any
significant load. The load is all on the last 4" from the springs to
the spindle.

I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

? for those with older trailers
 

In article ,
says...

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.



Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.


Really? Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.

Hummmm, wonder if it's actually the original axle? Could have been
damaged and he did mention a different setup on the spindles welding or
something like that..

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

In article 6ff46d9b-d811-4174-ae40-ed87d596d354
@z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says...

On Jul 7, 10:37*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, you don't understand. It only flexes up when I put a floor jack
under the center of the axle and jack it up till it's trying to lift
the whole thing off the ground. It's only a 2" square tube axle with
a 19' V8 boat on the trailer. 2" square axles can be used up to
3500lbs. The axle between the springs normally doesn't have any
significant load. The load is all on the last 4" from the springs to
the spindle.

I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

If it does go back it will have been bent in two directions and the
metal will be weakened at the bend point and will soon bend again. Three
options stand out.
Get a new Axel
weld support into old axle once it is in place.
Leave the bend in the middle and do two proper bends in a "unbent" area
further out from the middle of the axle on each side...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

? for those with older trailers
 

On Jul 7, 12:02*pm, I am Tosk wrote:
In article 6ff46d9b-d811-4174-ae40-ed87d596d354
@z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says...







On Jul 7, 10:37*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:46:03 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
On Jul 7, 8:50*am, Richard Casady wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:40:31 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'm thinking that it's just sagged over the years till it has negative
camber. *That seems to be the most logical explanation since I have
the same wear problem on both sides. *A bent axle would not likely be
bent symetrically. *Nor does it seem reasonable that the toe would
change on both sides.

It is not going to break. The yield point is a substantial percentage
of the stress at which it would break. It it bends sitting, it would
break the first time you hit a bump.

Question is will my parking it with a floor jack under the center bent
it back over time.

No. See above.

Really? *Cause it bows up about 3" in the center when I lift the
entire trailer and boat from the center of the axle with the floor
jack. *You're saying that doesn't matter, that's not enough to bend it
any. *Even if I do this for cummulative months?

Did I understand you right - it bows a full 3"?

There is no way it should flex a full 3" and that is probably your
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, you don't understand. *It only flexes up when I put a floor jack
under the center of the axle and jack it up till it's trying to lift
the whole thing off the ground. *It's only a 2" square tube axle with
a 19' V8 boat on the trailer. *2" square axles can be used up to
3500lbs. *The axle between the springs normally doesn't have any
significant load. *The load is all on the last 4" from the springs to
the spindle.

I'm doing this because I'm thinking that over the 20 yeasr of it's
life it has slowly sagged in the other direction. *Now I'm trying to
make it sag back the other way but hopefully a bit faster since I'm
putting a lot more stress on it.

If it does go back it will have been bent in two directions and the
metal will be weakened at the bend point and will soon bend again. Three
options stand out.
Get a new Axel
weld support into old axle once it is in place.
Leave the bend in the middle and do two proper bends in a "unbent" area
further out from the middle of the axle on each side...

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not visibly out of straight or visibly bent anywhere. I'm not
trying to bend it at one point, I'm trying to bend it all across the
axle. So I'm thinking we're talking about nanometers of strech at any
one given point on the axle. I'm having trouble seeing how that
weakens it any appreciable amount. Not to mention that if I take it
to a shop they are just going to "bend" it as well. Since it's
galvanized they can't heat treat it. So I think your "weakened"
theory doesn't hold water.