On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:32:45 -0500, Jim wrote:

You can get even more with the lever if put a pipe on in.
But you only want to do that if you're weak, otherwise you'll exceed its
capacity and likely break it.

It is normally a bad idea to use a cheater bar, if you are a mechanic
with the good hand strength they all have. For assembly, torque
wrenches mostly have relatively long handles and no cheating needed.
As for taking things apart, the gas welder is your friend. You can use
a bitty welding tip and not spread hot gas everywhere like with an
ordinary propane torch. Heat just the nut, without frying the nearby
wiring. If the torch is small enough you can heat the nut but not the
screw it is on. They sell dry ice, two bucks a pound, at the local
grocery store. You chill everythihg before you heat the nut and get
more differential expansion that hopefully will break the grip of the
rust.
You might be amazed at how much stuff you may have to remove in order
to get at what is left of a broken stud. They might have left room for
a wrench and even room for the hand to turn it, but you can spend the
time it used to take to change an engine getting at a broken screw
with a drill. My current ride requires about two hours to change the
plugs. You have to take lots of **** off and put it back later.
Luckily they last at least 100 000 miles. I don't know why a truck
needs a four cam engine, but the Lincoln Navigator has one. Sucker
went 175 000 miles before the check engine light came on. It was a
leaking valve guide. I figured that was the handwriting on the wall
and put in a rebuilt mill. I should have replaced the starter and
alternator at that time and they both went within 25 000 more miles,
luckily without any real inconvenience.

Casady