On 6/3/2010 7:51 AM, Tim wrote:
On Jun 3, 4:53 am, wrote:
On Wed, 2 Jun 2010 20:42:47 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Jun 2, 9:41 pm, wrote:
website showing how big the spill would be if centered on your
hometown

http://www.ifitwasmyhome.com/#loc=Ne...C%20USA&lat=40....

What year is your Tolly? I remember you did quite a few upgrades to
it. with the exception of the starter problem were youu able to take
it out thispast weekend? or was it a dry run.

it's kind of an antique...1977. havent been out yet...need to replace
starter. so, hope to replace that, and get it moving in next few
weeks



I shouldn't say 'dry' run around here, because it seems that every
weekend it's been raining and raining hard.

I've only been able to make it to the lake once this year.

sad, but true....

yeah it's h ard to find the time...plus it always seems to rain on
weekends...

Cool. If yo need a GM starter, the newer gear reduction permanent
magnent types are the way to go. If you'd like for me to get you one
for your boat engine[s], let me know. My cost on a new ( and I mean
BRAND NEW) starter with bolt kit is less than $60.00.

What do they go for retail, or so called discounted?
The beauty of them is they draw less current.
The downside is, I've heard that if they get wet they're junk. Is that true.

On Jun 3, 8:41*am, Wiley wrote:
On 6/3/2010 7:51 AM, Tim wrote:





On Jun 3, 4:53 am, *wrote:
On Wed, 2 Jun 2010 20:42:47 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Jun 2, 9:41 pm, *wrote:
website showing how big the spill would be if centered on your
hometown

http://www.ifitwasmyhome.com/#loc=Ne...C%20USA&lat=40....

What year is your Tolly? I remember you did quite a few upgrades to
it. with the exception of the starter problem were youu able to take
it out thispast weekend? or was it a dry run.

it's kind of an antique...1977. *havent been out yet...need to replace
starter. *so, hope to replace that, and get it moving in next few
weeks

I shouldn't say 'dry' run around here, because it seems that every
weekend it's been raining and raining hard.

I've only been able to make it to the lake once this year.

sad, but true....

yeah it's h ard to find the time...plus it always seems to rain on
weekends...

Cool. If yo need a GM starter, the newer gear reduction permanent
magnent types are the way to go. If you'd like for me to get you one
for your boat engine[s], let me know. My cost on a new ( and I mean
BRAND NEW) *starter with bolt kit is less than $60.00.

What do they go for retail, or so called discounted?
The beauty of them is they draw less current.
The downside is, I've heard that if they get wet they're junk. Is that true.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

not necessarily, Parts are available for them and are down right cheap
(just like the starter) The thing is that when any starter draws
moisture is that it corrodes the brushes and holders and usualy will
rust brush springs to the point they break and the standard old
starters did the same thing. What is the deal is that thae new
starters are so cheap to buy that to 'rebuild them' if you have to go
to deep, the labor is what eats up the wallet.

But unless the starter has sat in water for an extended period of time
(wspecially salt) yeah, they can be flushed out, re lubed and usualy
takes a new solonoid switch and they're good to go again.


But tht raises another thing, outside of normal humidity like on a doc
boat that isn't retrieved for the season, if the water is high enough
to penetrate the starter, then somebody's got more problems than just
a starter.

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Jun 3, 8:41 am, Wiley wrote:
On 6/3/2010 7:51 AM, Tim wrote:





On Jun 3, 4:53 am, wrote:
On Wed, 2 Jun 2010 20:42:47 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Jun 2, 9:41 pm, wrote:
website showing how big the spill would be if centered on your
hometown

http://www.ifitwasmyhome.com/#loc=Ne...C%20USA&lat=40....

What year is your Tolly? I remember you did quite a few upgrades to
it. with the exception of the starter problem were youu able to take
it out thispast weekend? or was it a dry run.

it's kind of an antique...1977. havent been out yet...need to replace
starter. so, hope to replace that, and get it moving in next few
weeks

I shouldn't say 'dry' run around here, because it seems that every
weekend it's been raining and raining hard.

I've only been able to make it to the lake once this year.

sad, but true....

yeah it's h ard to find the time...plus it always seems to rain on
weekends...

Cool. If yo need a GM starter, the newer gear reduction permanent
magnent types are the way to go. If you'd like for me to get you one
for your boat engine[s], let me know. My cost on a new ( and I mean
BRAND NEW) starter with bolt kit is less than $60.00.

What do they go for retail, or so called discounted?
The beauty of them is they draw less current.
The downside is, I've heard that if they get wet they're junk. Is that
true.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

not necessarily, Parts are available for them and are down right cheap
(just like the starter) The thing is that when any starter draws
moisture is that it corrodes the brushes and holders and usualy will
rust brush springs to the point they break and the standard old
starters did the same thing. What is the deal is that thae new
starters are so cheap to buy that to 'rebuild them' if you have to go
to deep, the labor is what eats up the wallet.

But unless the starter has sat in water for an extended period of time
(wspecially salt) yeah, they can be flushed out, re lubed and usualy
takes a new solonoid switch and they're good to go again.


But tht raises another thing, outside of normal humidity like on a doc
boat that isn't retrieved for the season, if the water is high enough
to penetrate the starter, then somebody's got more problems than just
a starter.

My starter failed the bearings. But that was because I left a cleanout
valve open and covered the starter with San Francisco Bay sal****er. Local
guy said it cost more to rebuild than replace.

On Jun 3, 8:41*am, Wiley wrote:
On 6/3/2010 7:51 AM, Tim wrote:





On Jun 3, 4:53 am, *wrote:
On Wed, 2 Jun 2010 20:42:47 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Jun 2, 9:41 pm, *wrote:
website showing how big the spill would be if centered on your
hometown

http://www.ifitwasmyhome.com/#loc=Ne...C%20USA&lat=40....

What year is your Tolly? I remember you did quite a few upgrades to
it. with the exception of the starter problem were youu able to take
it out thispast weekend? or was it a dry run.

it's kind of an antique...1977. *havent been out yet...need to replace
starter. *so, hope to replace that, and get it moving in next few
weeks

I shouldn't say 'dry' run around here, because it seems that every
weekend it's been raining and raining hard.

I've only been able to make it to the lake once this year.

sad, but true....

yeah it's h ard to find the time...plus it always seems to rain on
weekends...

Cool. If yo need a GM starter, the newer gear reduction permanent
magnent types are the way to go. If you'd like for me to get you one
for your boat engine[s], let me know. My cost on a new ( and I mean
BRAND NEW) *starter with bolt kit is less than $60.00.

What do they go for retail, or so called discounted?
The beauty of them is they draw less current.
The downside is, I've heard that if they get wet they're junk. Is that true.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As far as pricing goes, If you go to NAPA they have a 'remanufactured"
for $125 USD plus core, and if you don't have the right core, they hit
you for another $40.00 core charge.


They cost me about 58.00 plus shipping I normally retail them for
95.00

Sure mine are made in china, and sure so are the parts, but there's
not much I can do about that, and some people might crab about that,
but then again, the origional Delco/ Delphi wasn't made here either.
They're made in Portugal or Korea.

I tell people that there's only two kinds of parts in this industry.
"Cheap chinese parts" OR "cheaper chinese parts"

Honestly, there's very little domestic manufacturing in this industry,
and believe me, if I I had to pay more for it I'd use domestic , the
problem is,it's just not here.

And what's sadder is that it probaly won't be either.

On Jun 3, 8:41*am, Wiley wrote:

The downside is, I've heard that if they get wet they're junk. Is that true.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


There is a local guy who has a nice 20 ft. sea ray with a 4.6 GM. He
brought the boat out of the garage to to start cleaning on it, then
the rains started coming and it kept raining, well he didn't think
muych about it, that is untill his son wen't to get something out of
the boat and they thought the tires were a bit low... Actually what
had happened is that he didn't pull the transom plug and after about 2
weeks worth of rain, he had water up to the valve covers.

he drained the boat, then pulled the plugs and used a wrench to hand
crank the engine to make sure the cylinders were clear of water.
Changed the oil and hit the starter. click...click...click.

Pulled the starter and alternator off and brought thtem to me. I
pulled the starter apart and flushed i out with carb cleaner and let
it sit overnight to dry out well. re-lubed and re assembled. The motor
was fine, but the solonoid is sealed and you can't pull the cap. So I
replaced the solonoid and it worked well. So basicly I'm saying that
if it can be caught immediatly the damage is actually mimimal.

Same with his delco alternator. I pulled it apart but the corrosion
was alread working some on the housings and stator, but not bad. I
flushed it too, pulled the internal bolts and sprayed with PB Blaster,
installed new berings re assembled and it was fine also.