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Default Using Marine-Tex

On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 23:30:11 -0700, "CalifBill"
wrote:


"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Mar 24, 10:40 pm, I am Tosk
wrote:
In article 7f977bdd-9a81-4b4b-9b66-42957145a827
@z11g2000yqz.googlegroups.com, says...





On Mar 24, 6:38 pm, Tim wrote:
On Mar 24, 9:28 pm, W1TEF wrote:


On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:06:50 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


I've heard a lot here concerning using Marine-Tex. But there are
several different package for several different applications. i was
wondering if this is the stuff to use.


A small package of it goes a long way. If you only have to patch a
small area, just go with the smaller package - it's not complicated
to
use which is its appeal.


Worked very well on the Halman.


Done deal.


Thanks!


I had forgotten about Marine-Tex, great stuff and they are right, it
does not run. Basically it is epoxy with a thickener.
However, when making repairs, I like to use thin epoxy first to have
it soak into the surrounding area and then while it is still soft I
fill in with thicker stuff. That way it is bonded all the way into
the surrounding area instead of relying on a mechanical bond to the
surface. That's my theory at least.


And a good theory it is. If you use Epoxy or Marine-Tex, over cured
polyester resin, you are going to have to rely on a mechanical bond, not
a chemical bond. The epoxy will not become "part" of the hull, it will
just hang on real tight, if you're lucky and do it right I don't know
how big your repairs are but the trick is to rough it up good and create
negative ridges even if possible. When I am roughing wood or cured
laminate for goo, I sometimes use a saw blade curved over and dragged
along the surface. Either way, if you are thickening or using thickened
goo, it's good if you can to start with a thinner coat or two to create
a better mechanical bond with the rough surface, then integrate the
thicker stuff into the repair like Froggy said.

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v


Basically, Scott I'm working on chips in the gell coat that have
gotten down to the green resin but not into it. . I just came back
from sounding the hull again, and all seems solid. i suppose you
might say I'm trying to kill problems before they grow.

I dont' have any major damage where the mesh is ragged and hanging
out, so I'm considering just using some mild coatings of M-T dabbed
and smoothed to surface.
Reply:
Just get some white gel coat.


This company is in our area and has gel coat colors for most
makes/models. I know from having gotten kits from them for both the
Tolly and the Whaler, each of which had different color tones
depending on year.

From my experience, their products are excellent, certainly much
better than the website would have you believe. I'd recommend calling
them to discuss. You might find just what you're looking for.

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/default.asp


 
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