Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
I spent an hour on Susquehanna River the other day trying to get my
boat (1999 FourWinns/5.0L VP) started. The details a 1. A few weeks ago I got into the boat, turned the key and NOTHING. No start, no cranking, no solenoid clicking, no nothin'. After several turns of the key, it suddenly cranked and started normally. 2. I used the boat a couple times since then without incident. 3. Last Friday it started normally. I took it a few miles up river cut the engine and drifted a couple times. After a few normal starts, the problem reoccurred. 4. The lights, blower, bilge pump all worked normally when key was turned on. 5. I giggled and snapped the kill switch a few times - no change. 6. I dialed the Perko switch between all settings several times - no change 7. I removed & cleaned battery terminals - no change 8. I removed and cleaned the cable connection to starter motor - no change Finally I removed the Perko switch. There was no evidence of any corrosion on the backside where the cables attach. All were clean and bright. I removed one of the battery cables from it and connected directly to the starter. The engine started right up. If the internal contacts on the Perko were corroded, I should think they would have made contact after Step 6 above. I'm stuck. Anyone have any thoughts? Alan Hannas Just in case anyone asks - yes, I did toss the anchor out to stop the drift. And it did start to rain five minutes later. My luck was running true to form. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
Did you actually try to bypass the switch and energize the stater solenoid
wire? That would stop all the guessing about the switch. -W "Alan Hannas" wrote in message ... I spent an hour on Susquehanna River the other day trying to get my boat (1999 FourWinns/5.0L VP) started. The details a 1. A few weeks ago I got into the boat, turned the key and NOTHING. No start, no cranking, no solenoid clicking, no nothin'. After several turns of the key, it suddenly cranked and started normally. 2. I used the boat a couple times since then without incident. 3. Last Friday it started normally. I took it a few miles up river cut the engine and drifted a couple times. After a few normal starts, the problem reoccurred. 4. The lights, blower, bilge pump all worked normally when key was turned on. 5. I giggled and snapped the kill switch a few times - no change. 6. I dialed the Perko switch between all settings several times - no change 7. I removed & cleaned battery terminals - no change 8. I removed and cleaned the cable connection to starter motor - no change Finally I removed the Perko switch. There was no evidence of any corrosion on the backside where the cables attach. All were clean and bright. I removed one of the battery cables from it and connected directly to the starter. The engine started right up. If the internal contacts on the Perko were corroded, I should think they would have made contact after Step 6 above. I'm stuck. Anyone have any thoughts? Alan Hannas Just in case anyone asks - yes, I did toss the anchor out to stop the drift. And it did start to rain five minutes later. My luck was running true to form. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
Trace the grounding strap from the battery to somewhere on the motor or
bracket. A faulty ground cost me a tow, ignition switch, starter, solenoid, and an entire weekend once. "Alan Hannas" wrote in message ... I spent an hour on Susquehanna River the other day trying to get my boat (1999 FourWinns/5.0L VP) started. The details a 1. A few weeks ago I got into the boat, turned the key and NOTHING. No start, no cranking, no solenoid clicking, no nothin'. After several turns of the key, it suddenly cranked and started normally. 2. I used the boat a couple times since then without incident. 3. Last Friday it started normally. I took it a few miles up river cut the engine and drifted a couple times. After a few normal starts, the problem reoccurred. 4. The lights, blower, bilge pump all worked normally when key was turned on. 5. I giggled and snapped the kill switch a few times - no change. 6. I dialed the Perko switch between all settings several times - no change 7. I removed & cleaned battery terminals - no change 8. I removed and cleaned the cable connection to starter motor - no change Finally I removed the Perko switch. There was no evidence of any corrosion on the backside where the cables attach. All were clean and bright. I removed one of the battery cables from it and connected directly to the starter. The engine started right up. If the internal contacts on the Perko were corroded, I should think they would have made contact after Step 6 above. I'm stuck. Anyone have any thoughts? Alan Hannas Just in case anyone asks - yes, I did toss the anchor out to stop the drift. And it did start to rain five minutes later. My luck was running true to form. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 12:20:25 +0000, Alan Hannas wrote:
I spent an hour on Susquehanna River the other day trying to get my boat (1999 FourWinns/5.0L VP) started. The details a Sounds like you know about this, but you didn't mention it, so...how about the neutral switch (the one that only lets you start when the drive is in neutral). Did you try jiggling the shift lever? Also, I had a similar problem on my 1983 Mercruiser 120 - turned out that this engine has TWO solenoids, and one had failed. Lloyd |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
" 8. I removed and cleaned the cable connection to starter motor - no change Does the battery cable connect directly to the starter, or is there a relay (a.k.a. "solenoid") ?? Many marine engines use a relay, usually mounted higher on the engine. The heavy cable from the battery runs to this relay, and then another cable runs down to the starter. I highly recommend that you get yourself either a volt meter or a 12v test light, or both. The test light is often all you need and is much faster to poke around with. Next time this happens: If you have the relay, test the starter side of the relay. With the key off, the starter side should have no voltage (light off). With the key turned to start, the starter side should have 12 volts on it. You should also be able to hear this relay "click". If you hear the click, but don't get the voltage, try shorting across the two LARGE terminals with a screw driver. It should spark a little, and the starter should operate. If the key is on, the engine should start. If the starter does operate this way, then either the relay is bad or the connection from the key switch to the relay is bad (or the neutral switch is bad). If you hear the click of the relay it will tell you that the switch connection is okay, it is the relay that is bad. If shorting across the relay does nothing then the problem is most likely the starter. Worn brushes or a burned spot on the commutator can cause a problem like this. If you are not into do it yourself electric motor work, replace the starter. If you don't have the relay then you should have two wires going to the starter motor: a big battery cable and a small wire from the key switch. These wires should connect to the starter solenoid, which sort of looks like a 1-1/2 diameter tube that is attached to the side of the main starter motor. The battery cable attaches to one large terminal on the starter. Right next to it should be a similar terminal, with a wire that disappears into the starter motor itself. A small wire, often with a push on connection, should be right above these two large connections. Again, you can use the screwdriver to short across the terminals to bypass the key switch. CAREFUL! Do NOT short the battery cable to the engine block! You should also make sure that there aren't any gasoline fumes lurking about, as the spark that is generated can ignite them. If you short across the two large terminals the motor should spin, but the engine won't crank because the starter gear didn't get shoved into the flywheel teeth. That's the job of the solenoid. If you short across the battery terminal to the small wire terminal, it should operate the starter and the engine should start. Again, if the solenoid is doing its thing you should hear it go "thunk" as it shoves the gear teeth into the flywheel. If nothing happens, then the solenoid is probably bad. If you hear "Thunk" but the motor doesn't run, then it could be the brushes in the motor. Rod McInnis |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
I once had a flaky solenoid on a Mercruiser 7.4 (GM block) cause
symptoms like these. Capt. Frank http://www.home.earthlink.net/~aartworks Alan Hannas wrote: I spent an hour on Susquehanna River the other day trying to get my boat (1999 FourWinns/5.0L VP) started. The details a 1. A few weeks ago I got into the boat, turned the key and NOTHING. No start, no cranking, no solenoid clicking, no nothin'. After several turns of the key, it suddenly cranked and started normally. 2. I used the boat a couple times since then without incident. 3. Last Friday it started normally. I took it a few miles up river cut the engine and drifted a couple times. After a few normal starts, the problem reoccurred. 4. The lights, blower, bilge pump all worked normally when key was turned on. 5. I giggled and snapped the kill switch a few times - no change. 6. I dialed the Perko switch between all settings several times - no change 7. I removed & cleaned battery terminals - no change 8. I removed and cleaned the cable connection to starter motor - no change Finally I removed the Perko switch. There was no evidence of any corrosion on the backside where the cables attach. All were clean and bright. I removed one of the battery cables from it and connected directly to the starter. The engine started right up. If the internal contacts on the Perko were corroded, I should think they would have made contact after Step 6 above. I'm stuck. Anyone have any thoughts? Alan Hannas Just in case anyone asks - yes, I did toss the anchor out to stop the drift. And it did start to rain five minutes later. My luck was running true to form. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
I would say you found the problem, replace the perco sw. it only has one output conn. that is probably corroded or buned.
"Capt. Frank Hopkins" wrote in message nk.net... I once had a flaky solenoid on a Mercruiser 7.4 (GM block) cause symptoms like these. Capt. Frank http://www.home.earthlink.net/~aartworks Alan Hannas wrote: I spent an hour on Susquehanna River the other day trying to get my boat (1999 FourWinns/5.0L VP) started. The details a 1. A few weeks ago I got into the boat, turned the key and NOTHING. No start, no cranking, no solenoid clicking, no nothin'. After several turns of the key, it suddenly cranked and started normally. 2. I used the boat a couple times since then without incident. 3. Last Friday it started normally. I took it a few miles up river cut the engine and drifted a couple times. After a few normal starts, the problem reoccurred. 4. The lights, blower, bilge pump all worked normally when key was turned on. 5. I giggled and snapped the kill switch a few times - no change. 6. I dialed the Perko switch between all settings several times - no change 7. I removed & cleaned battery terminals - no change 8. I removed and cleaned the cable connection to starter motor - no change Finally I removed the Perko switch. There was no evidence of any corrosion on the backside where the cables attach. All were clean and bright. I removed one of the battery cables from it and connected directly to the starter. The engine started right up. If the internal contacts on the Perko were corroded, I should think they would have made contact after Step 6 above. I'm stuck. Anyone have any thoughts? Alan Hannas Just in case anyone asks - yes, I did toss the anchor out to stop the drift. And it did start to rain five minutes later. My luck was running true to form. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ This website is dedicated to the men and women who preserve Life, Liberty and Freedom. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Frank n Amy's Boating Page St. Johns River and its Springs Abandon Ship Kit, Children's & Pet Life Jackets Restaurant Reviews Pictures Links FAER Newsletter Gould's voyage pix - big photos bayliner drive failing Welcome To Frank 'n Amy's Homepage On The Web Site Evolving Thank You for your patience Included Is A Short Photo Tour Of The St. Johns River And Information Regarding Marine Safety. Some Tourist Photos Are On The Pictures Page. More Images To Be Added Soon! Contact Amy Contact Frank Anyone that knows us knows we are avid Boaters And Amy publishes the FAER Newsletter now online here We also have a few pictures of Florida and some other stuff Free Counter Member USCG-A |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Engine won't crank. Any suggestions?
On Sat, 11 Oct 2003 11:12:20 GMT, "Wildest Dream"
wrote: I would say you found the problem, replace the perco sw. it only has one output conn. that is probably corroded or buned. "Capt. Frank Hopkins" wrote in message nk.net... I once had a flaky solenoid on a Mercruiser 7.4 (GM block) cause symptoms like these. Capt. Frank http://www.home.earthlink.net/~aartworks Alan Hannas wrote: I spent an hour on Susquehanna River the other day trying to get my boat (1999 FourWinns/5.0L VP) started. The details a 1. A few weeks ago I got into the boat, turned the key and NOTHING. No start, no cranking, no solenoid clicking, no nothin'. After several turns of the key, it suddenly cranked and started normally. 2. I used the boat a couple times since then without incident. 3. Last Friday it started normally. I took it a few miles up river cut the engine and drifted a couple times. After a few normal starts, the problem reoccurred. 4. The lights, blower, bilge pump all worked normally when key was turned on. 5. I giggled and snapped the kill switch a few times - no change. 6. I dialed the Perko switch between all settings several times - no change 7. I removed & cleaned battery terminals - no change 8. I removed and cleaned the cable connection to starter motor - no change Finally I removed the Perko switch. There was no evidence of any corrosion on the backside where the cables attach. All were clean and bright. I removed one of the battery cables from it and connected directly to the starter. The engine started right up. If the internal contacts on the Perko were corroded, I should think they would have made contact after Step 6 above. I'm stuck. Anyone have any thoughts? Alan Hannas Just in case anyone asks - yes, I did toss the anchor out to stop the drift. And it did start to rain five minutes later. My luck was running true to form. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ This website is dedicated to the men and women who preserve Life, Liberty and Freedom. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Frank n Amy's Boating Page St. Johns River and its Springs Abandon Ship Kit, Children's & Pet Life Jackets Restaurant Reviews Pictures Links FAER Newsletter Gould's voyage pix - big photos bayliner drive failing Welcome To Frank 'n Amy's Homepage On The Web Site Evolving Thank You for your patience Included Is A Short Photo Tour Of The St. Johns River And Information Regarding Marine Safety. Some Tourist Photos Are On The Pictures Page. More Images To Be Added Soon! Contact Amy Contact Frank Anyone that knows us knows we are avid Boaters And Amy publishes the FAER Newsletter now online here We also have a few pictures of Florida and some other stuff Free Counter Member USCG-A Removing and cleaning the ignition switch and contacts helped solve the same problem for me. John On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Usage of motoroil | General | |||
Flushing engine stored in Salt Water | General | |||
Engine Knocking | General | |||
Overheated.... Engine won't crank | General | |||
Volvo Penta (EFI) engine starting problem | General |