Support points
 

"Rob" wrote

That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on both
of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level and in
very good condition. Then there is the sal****er problem with rollers...

Rob

I can see where that is a difference. In the south, we had tilt trailers,
as the ramps went down, and then the concrete or asphalt ended, and there
was usually a dropoff. And salt water does make a difference in everything
it touches. Our ramps here are gradual on the small lakes we have here in
Utah. I'm looking at a protractor, and I'd say 30 degrees plus or minus.
Hardly enough that I have seen anyone spin the tires on launching, or really
have a hard time pulling out.

My main thing is that I bought this used, and I really just don't like the
looks of it. The other advice that the keel can support almost all the
weight helped head me in one direction.

FWIW, I don't like to pull in very deep to launch or recover. So, I have
the taillights on top the gunnell guides. I like to back up until the motor
is in the water, and the rear end floats a bit. What I do next depends on
whether I launch by myself, or another person is in the truck. When I have
an assistant, I disconnect the winch, take the bowline, and walk along the
dock, have them back up until the boat fully floats, and pull the boat back
clear of the trailer.

My problem seems to be on retrieval, as it is hard to estimate how deep to
pull in the trailer so that it isn't floating too freely and I have a hard
time hooking up the bow eye because it is floating too high. I need to have
it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers,
then power the boat up a little. Then hook the winch snap on the eye, and
continue to pull out. (I have seen two boats dropped on ramps with the
strap disconnected from the bow eye, one launching, one retrieving.)

Hope that this description helps to explain what I'm trying to do.
Currently, the trailer only has two long skids under the rear, a couple of
12"misaligned rollers towards the front that just touch at the end of the
rollers, and the Y that receives the bow keel. Looks narly just looking at
it, and I don't know that much about trailers, other than it doesn't look
too good to me.

I'm a welder, so have no problem cutting out the old and fitting new rollers
or hardware. And I have enough rigging experience to jack the boat up a
little to cut out the old and fit the new so it is a glove fit. Just not
sure what types or how many.

It's a Lund 16' Aluminum with 40 Merc, but it has flooring and console and
bench which adds just a few pounds more than a bare aluminum boat of the
same length.

Steve

Support points
 

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Scott Dickson" wrote in message
...
On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer
that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade
welding
thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look
like
they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There
are
two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I
add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a
couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come
straight
into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the
loading
more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat
planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered
on
the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides
that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water.
Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer?

Steve

I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers.

Thank you for the help.


Bunks work very well. Especially on light aluminum boats. My heavy duty
aluminum boat sets on bunks faced with UHMW plastic. Boat slides real easy.
Rollers on thin guage aluminum will bend the aluminum in the contact area.
But my Valco 14' had the front keel roller support fail. And the boat
rested on the front of the bunk, and cracked the bottom at the contact
point. So after welding the bottom, I extended the bunks far enough forward
that the boat could not rest on the end of the bunk. Plus there is a less
problem with a bunk that rollers. And do not use treated lumber for bunks
on an aluminum boat. The copper will react with the aluminum.

Support points
 

In article ,
says...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Scott Dickson" wrote in message
...
On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer
that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade
welding
thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look
like
they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There
are
two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I
add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a
couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come
straight
into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the
loading
more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat
planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered
on
the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides
that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water.
Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer?

Steve

I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers.

Thank you for the help.


Bunks work very well. Especially on light aluminum boats. My heavy duty
aluminum boat sets on bunks faced with UHMW plastic. Boat slides real easy.
Rollers on thin guage aluminum will bend the aluminum in the contact area.
But my Valco 14' had the front keel roller support fail. And the boat
rested on the front of the bunk, and cracked the bottom at the contact
point. So after welding the bottom, I extended the bunks far enough forward
that the boat could not rest on the end of the bunk. Plus there is a less
problem with a bunk that rollers. And do not use treated lumber for bunks
on an aluminum boat. The copper will react with the aluminum.

Pffftttt. Short fat Dickster tried to be an ass, and succeded... Now
that's funny... Guess we know better than to listen to him.

Support points
 

On Nov 24, 6:51*am, I am Tosk wrote:
In article ,
says...





"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Scott Dickson" wrote in message
....
On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer
that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade
welding
thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look
like
they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There
are
two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I
add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a
couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come
straight
into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the
loading
more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat
planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered
on
the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides
that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water.
Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer?

Steve

I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers.

Thank you for the help.

Bunks work very well. *Especially on light aluminum boats. *My heavy duty
aluminum boat sets on bunks faced with UHMW plastic. Boat slides real easy.
Rollers on thin guage aluminum will bend the aluminum in the contact area.
But my Valco 14' had the front keel roller support fail. *And the boat
rested on the front of the bunk, and cracked the bottom at the contact
point. *So after welding the bottom, I extended the bunks far enough forward
that the boat could not rest on the end of the bunk. *Plus there is a less
problem with a bunk that rollers. *And do not use treated lumber for bunks
on an aluminum boat. *The copper will react with the aluminum.

Pffftttt. Short fat Dickster tried to be an ass, and succeded... Now
that's funny... Guess we know better than to listen to him.

Oh LOOK.... It's the Oompaloompa, Snotty Ingersoll. We ALL know better
than to listen to you, stumpy.

Support points
 

On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:55:15 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I need to have
it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers,
then power the boat up a little.

Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he
ran that show.
I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on
the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat.

--Vic

Support points
 

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:55:15 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I need to have
it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel
rollers,
then power the boat up a little.

Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he
ran that show.
I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on
the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat.

--Vic

Guides help with retrieving if you boat in a windy area...such as here most
of the time.

Support points
 

Don White wrote:


~~ Snerk ~~. The Freak calling someone else "short"??
LMAO



Once again you are jumping into a post that had NOTHING to do with you
with this crap. Is this how your mission to improve this group works?
You better get a new plan, dummy.

Rob

Support points
 

Don White wrote:
"Vic wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:55:15 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I need to have
it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel
rollers,
then power the boat up a little.

Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he
ran that show.
I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on
the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat.

--Vic

Guides help with retrieving if you boat in a windy area...such as here most
of the time.



You have a damn rowboat with a tiny OB on back and you need guides?
Real men winch it up and, if it's not perfectly straight, pick up the
ass end and make it straight.

Rob

Support points
 

Don White wrote:
"Steve wrote in message
...

wrote

That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on
both of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level
and in very good condition. Then there is the sal****er problem with
rollers...

Rob

I can see where that is a difference. In the south, we had tilt trailers,
as the ramps went down, and then the concrete or asphalt ended, and there
was usually a dropoff. And salt water does make a difference in
everything it touches. Our ramps here are gradual on the small lakes we
have here in Utah. I'm looking at a protractor, and I'd say 30 degrees
plus or minus. Hardly enough that I have seen anyone spin the tires on
launching, or really have a hard time pulling out.

My main thing is that I bought this used, and I really just don't like the
looks of it. The other advice that the keel can support almost all the
weight helped head me in one direction.

FWIW, I don't like to pull in very deep to launch or recover. So, I have
the taillights on top the gunnell guides. I like to back up until the
motor is in the water, and the rear end floats a bit. What I do next
depends on whether I launch by myself, or another person is in the truck.
When I have an assistant, I disconnect the winch, take the bowline, and
walk along the dock, have them back up until the boat fully floats, and
pull the boat back clear of the trailer.

My problem seems to be on retrieval, as it is hard to estimate how deep to
pull in the trailer so that it isn't floating too freely and I have a hard
time hooking up the bow eye because it is floating too high. I need to
have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel
rollers, then power the boat up a little. Then hook the winch snap on the
eye, and continue to pull out. (I have seen two boats dropped on ramps
with the strap disconnected from the bow eye, one launching, one
retrieving.)

Hope that this description helps to explain what I'm trying to do.
Currently, the trailer only has two long skids under the rear, a couple of
12"misaligned rollers towards the front that just touch at the end of the
rollers, and the Y that receives the bow keel. Looks narly just looking
at it, and I don't know that much about trailers, other than it doesn't
look too good to me.

I'm a welder, so have no problem cutting out the old and fitting new
rollers or hardware. And I have enough rigging experience to jack the
boat up a little to cut out the old and fit the new so it is a glove fit.
Just not sure what types or how many.

It's a Lund 16' Aluminum with 40 Merc, but it has flooring and console and
bench which adds just a few pounds more than a bare aluminum boat of the
same length.

Steve

The conventional wisdom...
bunks if you store your boat on the trailer for long periods
rollers if you launch and recover a lot



Total bull****. The two types of trailers have nothing to do with
storage time and everything to do with launching and ramp conditions, SFB.

Rob

Support points
 

On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer.

Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples".
Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time.

Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no
ramp at all.