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I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer
that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve |
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On Nov 22, 7:33*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. *I have a Lund on a trailer that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. *In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. *There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. *Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? *I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. *Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? *Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. *If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers. |
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Steve B wrote:
I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve pretty near all boats can be supported by their keel. Any other support is just for balance. |
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"Scott Dickson" wrote in message ... On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve B" wrote: I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers. Thank you for the help. |
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On Nov 23, 9:19*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Scott Dickson" wrote in message ... On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve B" wrote: I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers. Thank you for the help. Well, you didnt include any type of picture....so...... |
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Steve B wrote:
"Jim" wrote pretty near all boats can be supported by their keel. Any other support is just for balance. Thank you for your short informative answer. This tells me a lot about what to do next. My main concern was about supporting the boat, and your info answered that question exactly. Steve You are welcome. |
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"Jim" wrote pretty near all boats can be supported by their keel. Any other support is just for balance. Thank you for your short informative answer. This tells me a lot about what to do next. My main concern was about supporting the boat, and your info answered that question exactly. Steve |
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Steve B wrote:
"Scott wrote in message ... On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve wrote: I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers. Thank you for the help. That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on both of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level and in very good condition. Then there is the sal****er problem with rollers... Rob |
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"Steve B" wrote in message ... "Rob" wrote That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on both of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level and in very good condition. Then there is the sal****er problem with rollers... Rob I can see where that is a difference. In the south, we had tilt trailers, as the ramps went down, and then the concrete or asphalt ended, and there was usually a dropoff. And salt water does make a difference in everything it touches. Our ramps here are gradual on the small lakes we have here in Utah. I'm looking at a protractor, and I'd say 30 degrees plus or minus. Hardly enough that I have seen anyone spin the tires on launching, or really have a hard time pulling out. My main thing is that I bought this used, and I really just don't like the looks of it. The other advice that the keel can support almost all the weight helped head me in one direction. FWIW, I don't like to pull in very deep to launch or recover. So, I have the taillights on top the gunnell guides. I like to back up until the motor is in the water, and the rear end floats a bit. What I do next depends on whether I launch by myself, or another person is in the truck. When I have an assistant, I disconnect the winch, take the bowline, and walk along the dock, have them back up until the boat fully floats, and pull the boat back clear of the trailer. My problem seems to be on retrieval, as it is hard to estimate how deep to pull in the trailer so that it isn't floating too freely and I have a hard time hooking up the bow eye because it is floating too high. I need to have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers, then power the boat up a little. Then hook the winch snap on the eye, and continue to pull out. (I have seen two boats dropped on ramps with the strap disconnected from the bow eye, one launching, one retrieving.) Hope that this description helps to explain what I'm trying to do. Currently, the trailer only has two long skids under the rear, a couple of 12"misaligned rollers towards the front that just touch at the end of the rollers, and the Y that receives the bow keel. Looks narly just looking at it, and I don't know that much about trailers, other than it doesn't look too good to me. I'm a welder, so have no problem cutting out the old and fitting new rollers or hardware. And I have enough rigging experience to jack the boat up a little to cut out the old and fit the new so it is a glove fit. Just not sure what types or how many. It's a Lund 16' Aluminum with 40 Merc, but it has flooring and console and bench which adds just a few pounds more than a bare aluminum boat of the same length. Steve The conventional wisdom... bunks if you store your boat on the trailer for long periods rollers if you launch and recover a lot |
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"Rob" wrote That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on both of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level and in very good condition. Then there is the sal****er problem with rollers... Rob I can see where that is a difference. In the south, we had tilt trailers, as the ramps went down, and then the concrete or asphalt ended, and there was usually a dropoff. And salt water does make a difference in everything it touches. Our ramps here are gradual on the small lakes we have here in Utah. I'm looking at a protractor, and I'd say 30 degrees plus or minus. Hardly enough that I have seen anyone spin the tires on launching, or really have a hard time pulling out. My main thing is that I bought this used, and I really just don't like the looks of it. The other advice that the keel can support almost all the weight helped head me in one direction. FWIW, I don't like to pull in very deep to launch or recover. So, I have the taillights on top the gunnell guides. I like to back up until the motor is in the water, and the rear end floats a bit. What I do next depends on whether I launch by myself, or another person is in the truck. When I have an assistant, I disconnect the winch, take the bowline, and walk along the dock, have them back up until the boat fully floats, and pull the boat back clear of the trailer. My problem seems to be on retrieval, as it is hard to estimate how deep to pull in the trailer so that it isn't floating too freely and I have a hard time hooking up the bow eye because it is floating too high. I need to have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers, then power the boat up a little. Then hook the winch snap on the eye, and continue to pull out. (I have seen two boats dropped on ramps with the strap disconnected from the bow eye, one launching, one retrieving.) Hope that this description helps to explain what I'm trying to do. Currently, the trailer only has two long skids under the rear, a couple of 12"misaligned rollers towards the front that just touch at the end of the rollers, and the Y that receives the bow keel. Looks narly just looking at it, and I don't know that much about trailers, other than it doesn't look too good to me. I'm a welder, so have no problem cutting out the old and fitting new rollers or hardware. And I have enough rigging experience to jack the boat up a little to cut out the old and fit the new so it is a glove fit. Just not sure what types or how many. It's a Lund 16' Aluminum with 40 Merc, but it has flooring and console and bench which adds just a few pounds more than a bare aluminum boat of the same length. Steve |
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"Steve B" wrote in message ... "Scott Dickson" wrote in message ... On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve B" wrote: I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers. Thank you for the help. Bunks work very well. Especially on light aluminum boats. My heavy duty aluminum boat sets on bunks faced with UHMW plastic. Boat slides real easy. Rollers on thin guage aluminum will bend the aluminum in the contact area. But my Valco 14' had the front keel roller support fail. And the boat rested on the front of the bunk, and cracked the bottom at the contact point. So after welding the bottom, I extended the bunks far enough forward that the boat could not rest on the end of the bunk. Plus there is a less problem with a bunk that rollers. And do not use treated lumber for bunks on an aluminum boat. The copper will react with the aluminum. |
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On Nov 24, 6:51*am, I am Tosk wrote:
In article , says... "Steve B" wrote in message ... "Scott Dickson" wrote in message .... On Nov 22, 7:33 pm, "Steve B" wrote: I'm getting ready to do some work to my rig. I have a Lund on a trailer that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water. Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer? Steve I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers. Thank you for the help. Bunks work very well. *Especially on light aluminum boats. *My heavy duty aluminum boat sets on bunks faced with UHMW plastic. Boat slides real easy. Rollers on thin guage aluminum will bend the aluminum in the contact area. But my Valco 14' had the front keel roller support fail. *And the boat rested on the front of the bunk, and cracked the bottom at the contact point. *So after welding the bottom, I extended the bunks far enough forward that the boat could not rest on the end of the bunk. *Plus there is a less problem with a bunk that rollers. *And do not use treated lumber for bunks on an aluminum boat. *The copper will react with the aluminum. Pffftttt. Short fat Dickster tried to be an ass, and succeded... Now that's funny... Guess we know better than to listen to him. Oh LOOK.... It's the Oompaloompa, Snotty Ingersoll. We ALL know better than to listen to you, stumpy. |
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On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:55:15 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote: I need to have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers, then power the boat up a little. Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he ran that show. I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat. --Vic |
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"Vic Smith" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:55:15 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I need to have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers, then power the boat up a little. Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he ran that show. I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat. --Vic Guides help with retrieving if you boat in a windy area...such as here most of the time. |
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Don White wrote:
~~ Snerk ~~. The Freak calling someone else "short"?? LMAO Once again you are jumping into a post that had NOTHING to do with you with this crap. Is this how your mission to improve this group works? You better get a new plan, dummy. Rob |
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Don White wrote:
"Vic wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:55:15 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I need to have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers, then power the boat up a little. Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he ran that show. I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat. --Vic Guides help with retrieving if you boat in a windy area...such as here most of the time. You have a damn rowboat with a tiny OB on back and you need guides? Real men winch it up and, if it's not perfectly straight, pick up the ass end and make it straight. Rob |
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Don White wrote:
"Steve wrote in message ... wrote That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on both of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level and in very good condition. Then there is the sal****er problem with rollers... Rob I can see where that is a difference. In the south, we had tilt trailers, as the ramps went down, and then the concrete or asphalt ended, and there was usually a dropoff. And salt water does make a difference in everything it touches. Our ramps here are gradual on the small lakes we have here in Utah. I'm looking at a protractor, and I'd say 30 degrees plus or minus. Hardly enough that I have seen anyone spin the tires on launching, or really have a hard time pulling out. My main thing is that I bought this used, and I really just don't like the looks of it. The other advice that the keel can support almost all the weight helped head me in one direction. FWIW, I don't like to pull in very deep to launch or recover. So, I have the taillights on top the gunnell guides. I like to back up until the motor is in the water, and the rear end floats a bit. What I do next depends on whether I launch by myself, or another person is in the truck. When I have an assistant, I disconnect the winch, take the bowline, and walk along the dock, have them back up until the boat fully floats, and pull the boat back clear of the trailer. My problem seems to be on retrieval, as it is hard to estimate how deep to pull in the trailer so that it isn't floating too freely and I have a hard time hooking up the bow eye because it is floating too high. I need to have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers, then power the boat up a little. Then hook the winch snap on the eye, and continue to pull out. (I have seen two boats dropped on ramps with the strap disconnected from the bow eye, one launching, one retrieving.) Hope that this description helps to explain what I'm trying to do. Currently, the trailer only has two long skids under the rear, a couple of 12"misaligned rollers towards the front that just touch at the end of the rollers, and the Y that receives the bow keel. Looks narly just looking at it, and I don't know that much about trailers, other than it doesn't look too good to me. I'm a welder, so have no problem cutting out the old and fitting new rollers or hardware. And I have enough rigging experience to jack the boat up a little to cut out the old and fit the new so it is a glove fit. Just not sure what types or how many. It's a Lund 16' Aluminum with 40 Merc, but it has flooring and console and bench which adds just a few pounds more than a bare aluminum boat of the same length. Steve The conventional wisdom... bunks if you store your boat on the trailer for long periods rollers if you launch and recover a lot Total bull****. The two types of trailers have nothing to do with storage time and everything to do with launching and ramp conditions, SFB. Rob |
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On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. |
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"Rob" wrote Total bull****. The two types of trailers have nothing to do with storage time and everything to do with launching and ramp conditions, SFB. Rob Logic would agree with that. |
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"Vic Smith" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:55:15 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I need to have it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers, then power the boat up a little. Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he ran that show. I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat. --Vic My trailers have side guides. Helps in wind and current and ocean swells. |
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"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. |
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On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H |
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"John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message . .. On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. |
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Steve B wrote:
wrote Total bull****. The two types of trailers have nothing to do with storage time and everything to do with launching and ramp conditions, SFB. Rob Logic would agree with that. Of course. But not according to "conventional wisdom" as the group dumbass stated. Rob |
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On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote: "John H" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H |
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"John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message . .. On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message m... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' |
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"Don White" wrote in message ... "John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message om... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads. |
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"John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message . .. On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message m... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H http://www.roguejet.com/aluminum_trailers.asp will show you a trailer like mine. |
Support points
"Bill McKee" wrote in message ... "Don White" wrote in message ... "John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message m... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message news:n79pg55rcscp2tqn0tbovgp3vsjua1gpa8@4ax. com... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads. Well...here's something to ponder genius... I was told that if grit gets between the plastic and a gelcoat surface, it's more likely to scratch than if the grit gets caught up in a carpeted bunk. I was told to apply 'Joy' or 'New Dawn' liquid dish soap on the bunks. When they get wet, they'll be slippery enough and when dry..hold the boat in place a bit better. |
Support points
Don White wrote:
"Bill McKee" wrote in message ... "Don White" wrote in message ... "John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads. Well...here's something to ponder genius... I was told that if grit gets between the plastic and a gelcoat surface, it's more likely to scratch than if the grit gets caught up in a carpeted bunk. I was told to apply 'Joy' or 'New Dawn' liquid dish soap on the bunks. When they get wet, they'll be slippery enough and when dry..hold the boat in place a bit better. Another problem reported with the plastic sliders...the screws that fasten them to the wood bunks sometimes come loose, leaving a screwhead exposed to grind its way through the gelcoat on the bottom of your boat as you launch and retrieve it. The liquid soap works. I use a silicon spray, forgot the trade name, that is sold to lube trailer bunks. We're also "blessed" with some decent ramps around here, well-paved, and steep enough to make launching and retrieval fairly easy. -- If you are flajim, herring, loogy, GC boater, johnson, topbassdog, rob, achmed the sock puppet, or one of a half dozen others, you're wasting your time by trying to *communicate* with me through rec.boats, because, well, you are among the permanent members of my dumbfoch dumpster, and I don't read the vomit you post, except by accident on occasion. As always, have a nice, simple-minded day. |
Support points
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 21:24:19 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote: "Don White" wrote in message .. . "John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message m... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message news:n79pg55rcscp2tqn0tbovgp3vsjua1gpa8@4ax. com... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads. Gotcha, thanks! -- John H |
Support points
"H the K" wrote in message ... Don White wrote: "Bill McKee" wrote in message ... "Don White" wrote in message ... "John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads. Well...here's something to ponder genius... I was told that if grit gets between the plastic and a gelcoat surface, it's more likely to scratch than if the grit gets caught up in a carpeted bunk. I was told to apply 'Joy' or 'New Dawn' liquid dish soap on the bunks. When they get wet, they'll be slippery enough and when dry..hold the boat in place a bit better. Another problem reported with the plastic sliders...the screws that fasten them to the wood bunks sometimes come loose, leaving a screwhead exposed to grind its way through the gelcoat on the bottom of your boat as you launch and retrieve it. The liquid soap works. I use a silicon spray, forgot the trade name, that is sold to lube trailer bunks. We're also "blessed" with some decent ramps around here, well-paved, and steep enough to make launching and retrieval fairly easy. -- If you are flajim, herring, loogy, GC boater, johnson, topbassdog, rob, achmed the sock puppet, or one of a half dozen others, you're wasting your time by trying to *communicate* with me through rec.boats, because, well, you are among the permanent members of my dumbfoch dumpster, and I don't read the vomit you post, except by accident on occasion. As always, have a nice, simple-minded day. I run a 3/16"thick aluminum boat. Run the flat head screws through the wood bunk and use a lock nut. A little grit will just polish the bottom. There are also Glide strips, check West Marine, or Cabela's etc. May be better on a glass boat. |
Support points
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:19:38 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote: "H the K" wrote in message ... Don White wrote: "Bill McKee" wrote in message ... "Don White" wrote in message ... "John H" wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads. Well...here's something to ponder genius... I was told that if grit gets between the plastic and a gelcoat surface, it's more likely to scratch than if the grit gets caught up in a carpeted bunk. I was told to apply 'Joy' or 'New Dawn' liquid dish soap on the bunks. When they get wet, they'll be slippery enough and when dry..hold the boat in place a bit better. Another problem reported with the plastic sliders...the screws that fasten them to the wood bunks sometimes come loose, leaving a screwhead exposed to grind its way through the gelcoat on the bottom of your boat as you launch and retrieve it. The liquid soap works. I use a silicon spray, forgot the trade name, that is sold to lube trailer bunks. We're also "blessed" with some decent ramps around here, well-paved, and steep enough to make launching and retrieval fairly easy. -- If you are flajim, herring, loogy, GC boater, johnson, topbassdog, rob, achmed the sock puppet, or one of a half dozen others, you're wasting your time by trying to *communicate* with me through rec.boats, because, well, you are among the permanent members of my dumbfoch dumpster, and I don't read the vomit you post, except by accident on occasion. As always, have a nice, simple-minded day. I run a 3/16"thick aluminum boat. Run the flat head screws through the wood bunk and use a lock nut. A little grit will just polish the bottom. There are also Glide strips, check West Marine, or Cabela's etc. May be better on a glass boat. I suppose a real dumb ass would allow the screws to come loose and scratch up the bottom of the boat. My trailer manufacturer, Venture, sells them as an accessory. I'll check them out once the holidays are over. Thanks for the info, by the way. -- John H |
Support points
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 14:33:32 -0500, Gene
wrote: On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 09:57:11 -0500, H the K wrote: We're also "blessed" with some decent ramps around here, well-paved, and steep enough to make launching and retrieval fairly easy A point to be made is that this plastic is SO slick you'll winch your boat on and off of them.... assuming the ramps are as steep as ours. Another Catch-22 is that if you are considering bunks for an aluminum boat, don't use treated lumber. The new stuff is VERY corrosive.... especially to aluminum..... Thanks Gene. I winch mine for both launching and retrieval so they'll be a help. -- John H |
Support points
Don White wrote:
"Bill wrote in message ... "Don wrote in message ... "John wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: "John wrote in message ... On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee" wrote: wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B" wrote: I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples". Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time. Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no ramp at all. The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of support. Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic. What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks? -- John H UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics supplier. http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out easier. OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts? I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a picture by any chance? -- John H Good Lord. A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'. Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves' So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads. Well...here's something to ponder genius... I was told that if grit gets between the plastic and a gelcoat surface, it's more likely to scratch than if the grit gets caught up in a carpeted bunk. I was told to apply 'Joy' or 'New Dawn' liquid dish soap on the bunks. When they get wet, they'll be slippery enough and when dry..hold the boat in place a bit better. Who told you that? Rob |
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