On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 12:23:42 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:05:38 -0600, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

Somewhat off the subject.

A few years back, I purchased a A model IH orchard tractor with a
frozen engine. Parts for that particular tractor are hard to find in
particular engine parts - it's a non-standard A engine.

Anway, I was talking to a guy at a tractor show who specialized in
Ford Jubilee and 8/9N restorations. He gave me a trick that he used
on frozen Ford engines. Pull the head and attach a six foot piece of
bar steel (or rod at least 1 inch thick) to the flywheel. Fill the
top of the engine block with WD-40 or similar solvent based penetrant
and attach a 25 lb weight to the end of the bar.

I'll be darned if it didn't work. Took about a week and I had to
reposition the bar once or twice and refill the cylinders (I think I
used PB Blaster) a few times, but the engine freed up enough to remove
the pistons and see what damage was done to the cylinders.

Here's the best part - I only had to resleeve one cylinder - I could
get away with honing the other three cylinders and some very slight
over size piston rings.

I thought it was a pretty cool idea.

Does your tractor have a flat 6 or flat 8?

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