wrote in message
...
On Sat, 08 Aug 2009 21:52:51 GMT, "Mike Slater"
wrote:

Success. Here is my first test and afterwards there wasn't a single drop
of
water on the cowling. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrMiNfpOLqQ

ps: What did you mean by "Stainless will eat up the aluminum... "

Stainless will set up electrolysis in the aluminum and you will end up
with a big white powdery hole where the bolt was.
Salt water will really speed up this reaction but any water will do.
There is a teflon compound you can put in the joint to slow it down
but if strength is not a real big deal, aluminum bolts are better.

I am very glad you mentioned this concept. I understand what electrolysis
is, but never delved into or really thought about what metals are
sacrificial to the other aside from my anodes. I can find aluminum, but how
about just plain galvanized screws/bolts?

On Sun, 09 Aug 2009 00:49:01 -0400, wrote:

I can find aluminum, but how
about just plain galvanized screws/bolts?

In sal****er you will get better results using stainless hardware
bedded in silicone sealer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LCT-37460

On Sun, 09 Aug 2009 01:37:28 -0400, wrote:

If you are a lake boater you can get few years out of hot dipped
galvanized but bear in mind you are doing this because they are always
wet. In salt water you won't get a season out of them.
I can take some pictures of some stainless inflicted holes in
aluminum. They put stainless snaps in the rail on my boat and they
just fell out leaving a hole your thumb will fit in.

It may depend on the type of aluminum. Some alloys are more corrosion
resistant then others. Sailboats typically have aluminum masts and
booms with stainless hardware attached with stainless fasteners.
There are corrosion issues if the fasteners are not bedded properly
with silicone or never seize, but the usual failure mode is that the
fastener becomes corroded in place and can't be removed without
breaking it.