When I let my Merc outboard sit vertical, there is some oil trickling off
the bottom. About two tsp. per twelve hours. When I put the spacer in
there, and it's at a 45, hardly any. Does this indicate a lower seal out?
Looks like I should at least take it in for a bid so I can know what is
wrong with it, and what I should fix.

Steve

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 18:02:54 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

When I let my Merc outboard sit vertical, there is some oil trickling off
the bottom. About two tsp. per twelve hours. When I put the spacer in
there, and it's at a 45, hardly any. Does this indicate a lower seal out?
Looks like I should at least take it in for a bid so I can know what is
wrong with it, and what I should fix.

Steve

A lower unit seal usually results in water in the oil ... sometimes
not even any oil, just water.
Drain a little out and see what you have. If it looks like a "frosty"
it probably has a leaking seal. I would still try fresh oil and test
it again to be sure it is not some contamination from storage or
something.
The other way to tell is to smell the oil that you are seeing on the
floor. Lower unit oil has a distinctive smell, similar to garden
variety 90w you use in your car's rear axle.
It is worth being sure this is or isn't lower unit oil since that is a
big deal to fix. The seal kits (2 on my Big Foot) alone are $60-80 and
you need some special tools.

If the oil is just the TCW-3 it is a concern, but not a disaster. It
might be a leak in the injection system. (hose, tank or the pump). You
might fix that with a dollar's worth of hose.

Thanks for the help for a noob. You're a rose among thistles. I think I
shall take it over to the dealer and act like a customer and see what they
say. Get the mechanic to point and touch some things. May even be able to
find someone who's qualified to do it as a side job and save a bit. I know
that there are a lot of people who are looking for work. I know that the
power tilt isn't working. Would like to just have someone knowledgeable
look at it before I take it to the lake and run it. I didn't get the
manual, as I haven't found one for a good price yet, nor gotten to the point
of parting with that much cash for a book that doesn't have the kind of
pictures I prefer. Guess I may have to do that.

I also need to get out there and pull the cowling and identify which part
does what, check the wiring, and make sure all is well. I think I'll pull
the consoles while I'm at it and put some new carpet in there and just reset
to zero some things that need it.

Weather here has been howling. I can take hot or cold, but when the wind is
blowing, I don't even want to go fishing. Have worked on boats before, it
has just been a bit. Just need to get out there and do it. Soon as this
wind stops, that is.

Steve XXtreme SW Utah.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Apr 2009 07:00:53 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 18:02:54 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

When I let my Merc outboard sit vertical, there is some oil trickling
off
the bottom. About two tsp. per twelve hours. When I put the spacer in
there, and it's at a 45, hardly any. Does this indicate a lower seal
out?
Looks like I should at least take it in for a bid so I can know what is
wrong with it, and what I should fix.

Steve

A lower unit seal usually results in water in the oil ... sometimes
not even any oil, just water.
Drain a little out and see what you have. If it looks like a "frosty"
it probably has a leaking seal. I would still try fresh oil and test
it again to be sure it is not some contamination from storage or
something.
The other way to tell is to smell the oil that you are seeing on the
floor. Lower unit oil has a distinctive smell, similar to garden
variety 90w you use in your car's rear axle.
It is worth being sure this is or isn't lower unit oil since that is a
big deal to fix. The seal kits (2 on my Big Foot) alone are $60-80 and
you need some special tools.

If the oil is just the TCW-3 it is a concern, but not a disaster. It
might be a leak in the injection system. (hose, tank or the pump). You
might fix that with a dollar's worth of hose.

Thanks for the help for a noob. You're a rose among thistles. I think I
shall take it over to the dealer and act like a customer and see what they
say. Get the mechanic to point and touch some things. May even be able
to
find someone who's qualified to do it as a side job and save a bit. I
know
that there are a lot of people who are looking for work. I know that the
power tilt isn't working. Would like to just have someone knowledgeable
look at it before I take it to the lake and run it. I didn't get the
manual, as I haven't found one for a good price yet, nor gotten to the
point
of parting with that much cash for a book that doesn't have the kind of
pictures I prefer. Guess I may have to do that.

I also need to get out there and pull the cowling and identify which part
does what, check the wiring, and make sure all is well. I think I'll pull
the consoles while I'm at it and put some new carpet in there and just
reset
to zero some things that need it.

Weather here has been howling. I can take hot or cold, but when the wind
is
blowing, I don't even want to go fishing. Have worked on boats before, it
has just been a bit. Just need to get out there and do it. Soon as this
wind stops, that is.

Steve XXtreme SW Utah.


The real test is to put a little pressure (a couple PSI) into the
lower unit, spray the seals with soapy water and look for bubbles.
If it isn't one of the big shaft seals you might get away with just
replacing the shift shaft seal. That is 2 screws and doesn't require
tearing into the foot but that would not let out out while it was
sitting. If it leaks on the trailer it is most likely the prop shaft
seal. That is a big deal.
I have been in a lower unit several times. The first couple were a
serious learning experience along with an excuse to buy tools. I am
fairly comfortable in there now but it is still a daunting task if it
hasn't been opened up for a while since stuff will be corroded into a
single mass of metal. Getting the bearing carrier out can really be a
chore, even with the puller. Don't lose the 3 loose ball bearings on
the shaft ! ;-)
You also need a set of seal seating tools to get them back in without
screwing them up. I had them from working on car transmissions.

Before you even start, get some good anti-sieze compound and use it on
every bolt and screw you put back. I like "Never-seez". It is nasty
stuff to work with, it seems to stain everything it touches but it
does stop most of the problems with galling out the holes when you
remove a screw in a couple years. Salt water is hell on aluminum when
you put a stainless screw in it. You guys are famous for your salt
water. ;-)
I am guessing you are closer to Lake Powell tho.

Yeah, all this has seen is fresh water. I called the local Merc dealer
today, and they said they'd charge me an hour for an estimate, then credit
it back if I had the repairs done. May go that way, as I'd like to have it
right from the get go.

Steve

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:20:03 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

The real test is to put a little pressure (a couple PSI) into the
lower unit, spray the seals with soapy water and look for bubbles.
If it isn't one of the big shaft seals you might get away with just
replacing the shift shaft seal. That is 2 screws and doesn't require
tearing into the foot but that would not let out out while it was
sitting. If it leaks on the trailer it is most likely the prop shaft
seal. That is a big deal.
I have been in a lower unit several times. The first couple were a
serious learning experience along with an excuse to buy tools. I am
fairly comfortable in there now but it is still a daunting task if it
hasn't been opened up for a while since stuff will be corroded into a
single mass of metal. Getting the bearing carrier out can really be a
chore, even with the puller. Don't lose the 3 loose ball bearings on
the shaft ! ;-)
You also need a set of seal seating tools to get them back in without
screwing them up. I had them from working on car transmissions.

Before you even start, get some good anti-sieze compound and use it on
every bolt and screw you put back. I like "Never-seez". It is nasty
stuff to work with, it seems to stain everything it touches but it
does stop most of the problems with galling out the holes when you
remove a screw in a couple years. Salt water is hell on aluminum when
you put a stainless screw in it. You guys are famous for your salt
water. ;-)
I am guessing you are closer to Lake Powell tho.

Yeah, all this has seen is fresh water. I called the local Merc dealer
today, and they said they'd charge me an hour for an estimate, then credit
it back if I had the repairs done. May go that way, as I'd like to have
it
right from the get go.

Steve


The dealer is not evil. That is where the best people work, just try
to be sure that is the one working on your engine. I have had very
good and very bad experiences at a dealer. Ask around. See if you can
find happy customers.
BTW sometime the dealer is way best.
I needed a shift cable for my Merc. It was over $60 at West Marine for
a generic cable and 2 bags of parts. The dealer had exactly the right
"drop in" cable for about $40 (actually overnighted in)

I have had many experiences with dealers and repair shops in my 60 years.
There are some things that one wants a trained technician to do, and some
things that a DIYer can handle. I just don't like taking something in, and
being taken to the cleaners.

My BIL just payed $125 for a lawnmower repair man to take an old carburetor
off that was "too gummed up" and replaced it with a used one off a dead
piece of machinery. Such a nice guy.

Steve

On Apr 1, 8:58*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:20:03 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:





The real test is to put a little pressure (a couple PSI) into the
lower unit, spray the seals with soapy water and look for bubbles.
If it isn't one of the big shaft seals you might get away with just
replacing the shift shaft seal. That is 2 screws and doesn't require
tearing into the foot but that would not let out out while it was
sitting. If it leaks on the trailer it is most likely the prop shaft
seal. That is a big deal.
I have been in a lower unit several times. The first couple were a
serious learning experience along with an excuse to buy tools. I am
fairly comfortable in there now but it is still a daunting task if it
hasn't been opened up for a while since stuff will be corroded into a
single mass of metal. Getting the bearing carrier out can really be a
chore, even with the puller. Don't lose the 3 loose ball bearings on
the shaft ! * ;-)
You also need a set of seal seating tools to get them back in without
screwing them up. I had them from working on car transmissions.

Before you even start, get some good anti-sieze compound and use it on
every bolt and screw you put back. I like "Never-seez". It is nasty
stuff to work with, it seems to stain everything it touches but it
does stop most of the problems with galling out the holes when you
remove a screw in a couple years. Salt water is hell on aluminum when
you put a stainless screw in it. You guys are famous for your salt
water. ;-)
I am guessing you are closer to Lake Powell tho.

Yeah, all this has seen is fresh water. *I called the local Merc dealer
today, and they said they'd charge me an hour for an estimate, then credit
it back if I had the repairs done. *May go that way, as I'd like to have it
right from the get go.

Steve

The dealer is not evil. That is where the best people work, just try
to be sure that is the one working on your engine. I have had very
good and very bad experiences at a dealer. Ask around. See if you can
find happy customers.
BTW sometime the dealer is way best.
I needed a shift cable for my Merc. It was over $60 at West Marine for
a generic cable and 2 bags of parts. The dealer had exactly the right
"drop in" cable for about $40 (actually overnighted in) *- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

In Florida, I had a friend who owned a fairly large lawn equipment
repair shop. This town like most in FL had a LOT of retirees. That guy
made a LOT of money in the winter when they were around! A lot of them
didn't do ANYTHING for themselves. He had (for a nominal fee) a pick
up and delivery system, he'd come and take there equipment to the
shop, fix it, then return it. In the winter, I have seen ten or twenty
lawn walk behind mowers getting an oil change at one time!
They'd let them sit all summer, get gummed up, then have them
serviced. Very simple carbs, takes about five minutes to get one off
and apart and into the cleaner.
Same with auto repair shops in the area.

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 2 Apr 2009 08:07:58 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I have seen ten or twenty
lawn walk behind mowers getting an oil change at one time!
They'd let them sit all summer, get gummed up, then have them
serviced

I am the only "retiree" I know who actually walks behind a mower. Most
of them have a ZTR rider they like to hot dog around on or they pay a
Mexican and they sit in the house while he is there.

Hey, I walk behind my mower, although it is powered. 1 hour and 20 minutes
in the HOT Florida sun every four days in the summer. Great exercise.

"D.Duck" wrote

Hey, I walk behind my mower, although it is powered. 1 hour and 20
minutes in the HOT Florida sun every four days in the summer. Great
exercise.

HOLY CRAP! Brings back nightmares of living in Louisiana with St. Augustine
grass. You BETTER mow that stuff every week, or next week, you have to do
two cuttings. One with a tractor so you can get the mower in there.

Steve

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 2 Apr 2009 21:21:30 -0400, "D.Duck" wrote:


Hey, I walk behind my mower, although it is powered. 1 hour and 20
minutes
in the HOT Florida sun every four days in the summer. Great exercise.



Same here

Here in Utah, we grow rocks. Oh, a little grass inbetween.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in message
news

"D.Duck" wrote

Hey, I walk behind my mower, although it is powered. 1 hour and 20
minutes in the HOT Florida sun every four days in the summer. Great
exercise.

HOLY CRAP! Brings back nightmares of living in Louisiana with St.
Augustine grass. You BETTER mow that stuff every week, or next week, you
have to do two cuttings. One with a tractor so you can get the mower in
there.

Steve

Yep, St Augustine. I'm from Chicago where we had very fine bladed Marion
Blue. Took a while to get used the weeds down here they refer to as grass.

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 2 Apr 2009 21:21:30 -0400, "D.Duck" wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 2 Apr 2009 08:07:58 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I have seen ten or twenty
lawn walk behind mowers getting an oil change at one time!
They'd let them sit all summer, get gummed up, then have them
serviced

I am the only "retiree" I know who actually walks behind a mower. Most
of them have a ZTR rider they like to hot dog around on or they pay a
Mexican and they sit in the house while he is there.

Hey, I walk behind my mower, although it is powered. 1 hour and 20
minutes
in the HOT Florida sun every four days in the summer. Great exercise.



Same here

Oh, and I change the oil and sharpen the blade myself.